Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller

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      Crossing the suspension bridge on Parcours le P’tchi, with Chambéry and the Chartreuse Massif in the background (Route 16, Stage A)

Tyrolean traverses

      Only two of the via ferratas in this book contain a Tyrolean traverse, both of which are optional. These are not traditional rock-climbing Tyrolean traverses, which require a belayer, but single cables that are traversed by force of gravity. Of all the different elements found on via ferratas, Tyrolean traverses present the greatest potential risk of accident if misused. Many supervised Tyrolean traverses exist, including a few that are adjacent to routes in this book. The uninitiated should consider trying one of these before using a traverse incorporated into a via ferrata.

      To use a Tyrolean traverse, place a climbing sling onto the belay loop of your harness by a lark’s foot knot. Attach the other end of the sling to a screwgate karabiner. Place your pulley onto the Tyrolean traverse cable and attach it to the karabiner (with the screw tightened). Your rest lanyard (see Equipment) may be suitable for this purpose, but your via ferrata self-belaying lanyard is not. This latter item should remain attached to the via ferrata cable until ready to start on the Tyrolean, and then be clipped onto the gear loop of your harness.

      Ensure that your arms are at a comfortable distance from the cable, so that you can reach it, at a point behind the pulley, with both hands. Tie up long hair, to avoid the possibility of it snagging in the pulley. The speed at which you travel will depend upon the force with which you start, the angle of the traverse, your weight, the type of pulley used and wind resistance. You can reduce the possibility of your body spinning around by placing both (gloved) hands on top of the pulley. If you stop short of the end of the traverse, you will need to pull yourself along; be very careful not to snag fingers or gloves in the pulley.

      Only one person at a time should use a Tyrolean traverse and any specific instructions at the start of the traverse should be followed.

Climbing with children

      French via ferratas are an ideal way to introduce children to the pleasure and satisfaction that can be gained from outdoor activities. Although many relatively difficult via ferratas are climbed by appropriately supervised children, the lower grade routes are typically more suitable. Ideally, in addition to standard via ferrata equipment, children should wear a full-body harness and be attached to an adult by rope (see Roped progression). In the event of a fall, small children may be too light to benefit from a shock-absorbing lanyard and it is therefore essential that they be secured by rope. The following routes, which are easy and have closely spaced fixed protection, are designed specifically with children in mind. They are also well suited for adult beginners.

      A family party crossing the Passerelle de l’Ou Izès (Route 6)

      4 VF du Rocher de la Chaux, Stage A Mini Via Ferrata

      15 VF École de Rossane

      17 VF la Grotte du Maquis

      21 VF du Lac de la Rosiere

      24 VF du Plan du Bouc, Stage B Parcours en Falaise

      25 VF de Pralognan, Stage B Parcours Ouistiti

      27 VF Roc de Tovière, Stage A 1ère Partie

      29 VF d’Andagne, Stage A Itinéraire Pierre Blanc

      32 VF du Diable, Stage A Les Angelots

      33 VF de L’École Buissonnière

      35 VF de Poingt Ravier

      38 VF de St-Colomban-des-Villards, Stage A VF École du Rocher de Capaillan

      43 VF de l’Alpe du Grand Serre, Stage A VF de la Cascade

      52 VF du Rocher du Bez

      55 VF de la Schappe

      57 VF de l’Horloge

      60 VF du Torrent de la Combe

      61 VF Gorges d’Ailefroide, Stage A Via Facile

Dangers

      Weather

      In common with all mountain ranges, the French Alps are subject to rapid and unpredictable changes in the weather. Prior to setting out on a via ferrata, you should obtain an up-to-date weather forecast. Meteo France, the French state weather service, is the best source of information, with forecasts tailored specifically to the Alps. This can be obtained from www.meteofrance.com, or via television and radio broadcasts. Tourist offices will normally post a recent forecast, which is sometimes available in English. Otherwise, the staff should be able to translate the French-language forecast for you.

      Light rainfall should not normally prevent the use of a via ferrata, although it may reduce the grip offered by rock-holds. Routes should be avoided altogether during or after periods of snowfall or when icy. At higher altitude, routes may ice over at any time of year during cold snaps. After snowfall, or during spring or early summer on higher-altitude routes, avalanche may be a risk. Routes should also be avoided when storms are forecast, due to the risk of lightning strike.

      The Belledonne Massif from the Col de la Croix de Fer (near Route 37)

      Should you find yourself caught out on a via ferrata by bad weather then, if possible, leave by the nearest escape path. If unable to do so, take shelter until the worst has passed. If lightning is present try to isolate yourself from the surrounding rock. If your pack is large enough, sit on it and distance yourself from any metal items, such as walking poles or ice axes. The via ferrata cable and other metallic elements conduct electricity, so if it is possible to move away from them without compromising safety, do it. Avoid high points such as summits or ridges. Stay in the open and avoid sheltering in caves and other shallow indentations in the rock or under boulders and trees. If these features are struck by lightning, the electricity will take the most economical route to ground, which may be via you. Open depressions in the ground can be a relatively safe place to take shelter.

      Hypothermia is also a risk during sudden storms, when the temperature may drop considerably. Put on any spare clothing and try to keep dry. Conversely, during hot periods, you should be aware of the risk of sunburn and heat exhaustion. Carry sunscreen and plenty of water.

      Loose rock and fixed protection failure

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