Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller

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      The strenuous Traverse de Coucou

      Climb up around a narrow buttress to reach a ledge, which is followed without any difficulties until arriving at a large tree. This spot (Le Jardin de Miolene) is one of the few places on the route with shade. From here, the route gains 65 vertical metres up a series of steep climbs and traverses (La Para Nera). This ascent is tiring but contains no noticeably strenuous moves. At the top a narrow ledge passes an escape path on the left and leads to the Traversée des Poupées. This takes a gradually rising line across a series of vegetated ledges and bare slabs until arriving at a steep climb of 15m. The final 5m of the climb ascend an open corner and are fairly tough.

      Above this, another narrow ledge, where a rest can be had, leads to the Mur du Saix Rouge. This is climbed for 70 vertical metres and contains a few small passages that are slightly overhanging. Depending on your height, some moves may be fairly awkward due to the placement of the rungs and you may need to make use of a number of small hand and rock foot placements. At the top of the climb, the cable continues along much easier ground for a further few minutes before terminating.

      Return

      Descend carefully until the start of the route is reached and return along the approach path.

      DENT D’OCHE OPTION

      Although it cannot really be considered to be a via ferrata, the path traversing the nearby Dent d’Oche (2221m) is well worth an ascent for anyone in the area. The route contains several exposed sections of scrambling, which are protected by cable. It is situated a little to the north of the Abondance Valley and is best accessed from the small village of Bernex, which can be reached from Évian-les-Bains. There is a staffed refuge on the summit of the peak, from which there are exceptional views, taking in the entire sweep of Lake Geneva. The ascent climbs for 1010m from Parking La Fétiuère (above Bernex); allow 5–7hrs for the round-trip.

ROUTE 4

      Via Ferrata du Rocher de la Chaux

      This new route, opened in the summer of 2011, scales a feature known locally as the Tete de l’Éléphant. Driving north from Morzine, the reason for the name soon becomes apparent, as an approximation of an elephant’s head can clearly be seen on the Rocher de la Chaux, to the northwest of St-Jean-d’Aulps.

      There are two routes on the rock, with the easier one ascending the ‘trunk’ of the elephant and the harder route its ‘face’, as well as an easier third option nearby. Both routes are athletic, sustained and exceptionally airy, with the exposure being particularly ‘immediate’ for most of their length. There are few good places to take a break on either route, so a rest lanyard is essential. The second route is considerably more arduous and sustained than the first, although the most difficult passages are fairly well spaced apart. As such, the route would be a good option to try before tackling one of the most difficult via ferratas in the book, such as the Grotte à Carret (Route 16, Stage B) or Grand Dièdre (Route 40, Stage B). An easier third option, the Mini Via Ferrata, could be completed as a warm-up for the other routes, or by children and beginners who want to dip their toes in the water. The routes on the Rocher de la Chaux are closed each year from 15 April to 15 May to protect the kidding of chamois.

      Access

      Driving south on the D902 from Thonon-les-Bains, turn left onto the D293 just before St-Jean-d’Aulps. Follow this for 200m and park next to a cemetery and information panel for the via ferrata.

      STAGE A

      La Tête de l’Éléphant

Length	300m
Ascent/Descent	375m
Route grading	technical grade: 3; exposure: 5; seriousness A
Time	2hrs 30mins (approach: 25mins; route: 1hr 30mins; return: 35mins)
Technical notes	direction SE; escape points (within stage): 0

      Approach

      Briefly walk uphill to a minor road and turn left. Immediately beyond the first intact building on your right a small sign indicates the point where you leave the road. Take a path, with orange waymarks, that climbs steeply uphill through forested slopes.

      Route

      A straightforward climbing traverse leads to the Pilier de Chantemerle, a vertical climb of 50m. This is quite steep, but initially not too strenuous. In common with the rest of the route, as well as the adjacent route, progress is almost exclusively on stemples, with only very occasional contact made with the rock. Towards the top of this first climb, several mildly demanding moves lead to a short, vertiginous traverse around a corner, beyond which is a balance beam. The 4m-long beam (Le Pont de Saint Guérin) feels extremely airy and is equipped with a cable only just tight enough to avoid having to rely on balance alone.

      Pass the escape path from the harder route and continue with a climb of 30m. This involves a few slightly strenuous moves and leads to a steep traverse up to the second escape path from the harder route. Continue to traverse steeply, with a gradual decline in the angle of ascent leading to the junction with the other route. From here, walk easily up the grassy hillside to the end of the cable. The platform above the end of the route affords fine views of Mont Blanc (4810m), in the distance, as well as of St-Jean-d’Aulps, now far below you.

      The reward for your efforts: a view of Mont Blanc

      Return

      Keep your gear on as the return path involves some easy cabled sections. СКАЧАТЬ