Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller
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Название: Via Ferratas of the French Alps
Автор: Richard Miller
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Спорт, фитнес
isbn: 9781849657761
isbn:
Climbing the third set of bluffs encountered on the Via Ferrata de St-Christophe-en-Oisans, with the River Vénéon directly underfoot (Route 48, Stage A)
The grades assume that a route is undertaken when it is clear of snow and ice, and during periods of reasonable weather. In more challenging conditions, routes may be much harder. Additionally, the technical difficulty of a route can change over time due to polishing of the rock, or minor amendments to the fixed equipment made during inspections.
THE FRENCH GRADING SYSTEM
Many French via ferratas have a semi-official grade, provided by the company that built the route. Typically, these grades run from Facile (easy) to Extrêmement Difficile (extremely difficult). Although the French mountaineering grading system (IFAS) uses the same nomenclature, these two grading systems are entirely unrelated. The individual grades have no defined meaning and the system is not applied consistently to all routes. Therefore, it is not used in this guide.
Equipment
To climb a via ferrata, you will require the following equipment. If in any doubt as to what to get and how to use it, consult with the staff at a climbing shop.
Via ferrata kit (clockwise from top left): VF lanyard with rest lanyard (quickdraw) attached, harness, helmet, gloves, security rope and belay device
Climbing harness
Either a sit harness or a full-body harness can be used, depending on personal preference. It should be comfortable, close-fitting and light, and you must understand how to fasten it correctly. It is strongly recommended that a full-body harness be used for children, or by adults who carry a lot of weight around the waist. In the event of a fall, this form of harness will reduce the possibility of the via ferratist turning upside down. If this happens with an inadequately tightened sit harness, there is a risk that the climber may fall out of it.
Climbing helmet
This should be worn at all times while on the via ferrata or below steep rock. Adjust the helmet for comfort before starting the route.
Three VF lanyards; two with friction plates (left and middle) and one with a progressive tearing device (right)
Via ferrata shock-absorbing lanyard
This consists of a shock-absorbing mechanism and two lengths of kernmantle rope or climbing webbing, on the ends of which are special karabiners designed for via ferratas. The shock-absorbing element may consist of a metal friction device through which the rope runs, or a sealed length of webbing bonded together by stitching, which absorbs energy by progressively tearing apart when put under extreme pressure. A number of these kits are now available from various climbing equipment manufacturers. The style of via ferrata lanyard detailed above is known as ‘Y-shape’. You may encounter the older ‘V-shape’ via ferrata lanyard, where only one half of the lanyard was clipped onto the cable at once. These are now considered obsolete and should be avoided. It is possible to construct a via ferrata lanyard by yourself, but instructions on how to do so are beyond the scope of this book, and it is not recommended.
A via ferrata lanyard attached to the belay loop of a sit harness by a lark’s foot knot
The via ferrata lanyard should be attached to the belay loop of your harness via a lark’s foot knot. Never use a karabiner to attach the via ferrata lanyard to the harness. In the event that such a karabiner is shock-loaded by a dynamic fall, there is a chance that it may break. Any via ferrata lanyard that has been placed under significant stress, such as from holding a fall, is excessively worn, or that has passed its use-by date, should be replaced. Read the instructions that come with the lanyard and follow them. See Moving safely for information on how to use the lanyard correctly.
Taking a rest on the balance beam near the top of Via Ferrata du Grand Bec 1ère Partie, while still securely attached to the cable by a via ferrata lanyard (Route 43, Stage B)
Rest lanyard
In addition to the via ferrata lanyard you should carry another lanyard to hang off when taking a rest in exposed positions. The via ferrata lanyard is typically too long for this purpose and it is better not to put the shock-absorbing element under unnecessary strain. Some proprietary via ferrata lanyards come with an additional loop fitted below the shock absorber, to which a screwgate karabiner can be attached to construct a rest lanyard. With such a design, it is imperative that, when not being used to rest on, the karabiner be left hanging rather than attached to your harness, as this may bypass the shock absorber.
To construct your own rest lanyard, use either a quickdraw with a screwgate karabiner on each end or a climbing sling with one screwgate karabiner. The sling should be attached to the belay loop of your harness via a lark’s foot knot and be just long enough to allow you to rest at a comfortable distance from the rockface. The rest lanyard is intended to assist with resting only, and under no circumstances should be used in place of a shock-absorbing via ferrata lanyard. It will not protect you from the effects of a dynamic fall.
Tyrolean traverse pulley
Routes 15 and 37 both contain an optional Tyrolean traverse, designed to be used with a specific model of pulley. Unfortunately, the models differ, with Route 15 requiring a Petzl Tandem Cable pulley (yellow), and Route 37 a Petzl Tandem Speed pulley (grey). Details of these devices can be found at www.petzl.com. You will also need thick full-finger gloves. See Tyrolean traverses for more information on how to use the pulley.
Additional equipment required for a Tyrolean traverse: pulley, screwgate karabiner and full-finger gloves
SAFETY CHECK
Before purchasing or using any of the equipment listed above check that it is certified to EN Standard or UIAA Standard, how long the item has been in stock (components have a shelf-life), and that it has not been subject to a product recall. There were recalls of well-recognised brands of via ferrata lanyards in both 2011 and 2012, some of which may still be on sale from retailers unaware of those recalls. To check which items have been affected, see www.theuiaa.org/certified_equipment. Always buy your via ferrata gear from a high-quality retailer and always check it before, during and after use. If in any doubt whatsoever, replace it.
Gloves
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