Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller

Чтение книги онлайн.

      Whether or not you choose to wear gloves is a matter of personal preference. They will offer protection against general wear as well as cuts caused by frayed cables (which are rare), but may give less grip than bare hands. There are a number of brands of fingerless gloves designed specifically for via ferratas.

      Footwear

      There is no specific type of via ferrata shoe and you may see people wearing a wide variety of footwear on the routes, from light sandals to heavy mountaineering boots. Whatever you wear, it should be comfortable, and give good grip on rock, ideally with a Vibram sole. Although trainers will often suffice, stiff walking or summer mountaineering boots will probably offer more grip and protection. Larger boots are recommended for the handful of longer mountain routes, such as Via Ferrata Le Roc du Vent (Route 12), but may feel a bit bulky on the more delicate passages found on some via ferratas. Rock-climbing shoes are not required for any of the routes, but may be worth considering on some of the most difficult, particularly for shorter climbers who will be required to use rock holds more often. Rock-climbing approach shoes offer a good compromise, but are expensive. Regular use of via ferratas tends to wear through the soles used on climbing and mountaineering footwear rather quickly.

      Clothing

      This should be appropriate to the mountainous situation and current weather forecast. Even when mild, it is sensible to carry a warm and waterproof coat, in case of a sudden change in the weather. Via ferratas can take a heavy toll on garments, so whatever you wear should be durable. Before setting off ensure that there is nothing loose in your pockets, any zips are done up, and laces are tightly fastened. Spectacle wearers should consider securing their glasses with a small lanyard.

      The following additional items are recommended: mobile phone, whistle, water bottle, emergency blanket, pen and paper, compass, sunscreen, small medical kit and a camera (preferably with an anti-shake feature and on a lanyard to secure it). Consider taking a length of lightweight climbing rope, a belay device and some quickdraws if your party contains children or climbers that require extra security (see Roped progression).

      Hiring via ferrata equipment

      Via ferrata kits can be hired throughout the region, and in most cases there will be somewhere close to each route that hires out the necessary gear. Local tourist offices often rent out the equipment or will be able to advise on where it can be obtained. Usually, you will be required to leave a deposit of around €20, or your passport. As with your own equipment, thoroughly check all hired gear for any signs of damage prior to use. See above for information on recalled via ferrata lanyards. These should be hired only if you are satisfied that they have been returned to the manufacturer and verified as safe.

      The limestone slabs encountered on the first stage of Via Ferrata de Roche Veyrand are protected by numerous stemples for both hands and feet (Route 18, Stage A)

Moving safely

      Protection for climbers on a via ferrata takes the form of a cable that is anchored to the rock at regular points. Via ferratists should ensure that they are attached continuously to the cable by both of the karabiners at the end of their via ferrata lanyard, except at the point where they move from one section of cable to the next. At each of these anchor points, take one of the karabiners off the cable, while the other is still attached, and place it around the next section of cable, ensuring that both karabiners are fully closed.

      The length of cable between anchors, known as the run-out, varies from one metre to as much as 10m. Normally, the more challenging the movement required on any one passage, the shorter the run-out will be. Assuming you are correctly attached to the cable, this system assures that, in the event of a fall, you will never drop more than a few metres. However, a fall still has the potential to result in injury, and is to be avoided if possible. On longer run-outs, or particularly strenuous overhangs, you can further reduce the potential fall distance by clipping one of the karabiners of your via ferrata lanyard onto a rung or other element of the fixed protection situated between the cable anchor points. This can be moved up from one rung to the next as you progress but, if you do this, the other karabiner should always remain attached to the cable.

      A pigs’ tail piton: for use by a roped party

Roped progression

      Parties with children, or those requiring extra assurance, should use a rope in addition to the via ferrata lanyard used by each member of the party. The rope should be attached to the belay loop of each person’s harness via a re-threaded figure of eight knot (for the ends) or a figure of eight knot on a bight (for the middle). Keep the rope reasonably taut, with a gap of 5 to 8m between each climber. Many via ferratas are equipped with pigs’ tails pitons, through which the rope should be threaded by the lead climber. If these are not present, use quickdraws placed onto the fixed protection by the lead climber instead. If properly organised, there should always be an anchor point between each member of the party. The last climber should unthread the rope from the pigs’ tails (or collect the quickdraws). Additional security on strenuous sections can be given by the use of a belay plate. If you wish to secure your party with a rope but are not confident of your ability to use this equipment correctly, consider hiring a guide.

      A roped-up party crossing the Pont du Calvaire (Route 10, Stage A)

      Further advice

       Try to avoid the two strands of your via ferrata lanyard becoming excessively twisted or tangled. If this happens, stop, unclip one strand at a time and untwist it.

       Put your weight on your legs in preference to your arms. On strenuous sections, keep your arms straight, as bent arms will tire more quickly. If your arms or legs are feeling strained, try to change posture regularly.

       You may find some sections of via ferratas more challenging, depending on your height. Put simply, the shorter you are, the more difficulty you will have with sections of vertical climbing; the taller you are, the more difficulty you will have with traversing. Bear this in mind when choosing routes.

       Rock-holds are not always immediately obvious, especially on harder routes, and occasionally you may have to search for them.

       On a few of the hardest routes you may occasionally have to ‘smear’ your boots on the rock. To smear is to use the friction of the sole of your footwear against a vertical (or near vertical) surface, in the absence of rungs or horizontal footholds. Shorter climbers are more likely to have to use this technique.

       Always try to maintain three points of contact on the rock, fixed protection or the cable.

       There is no such thing as poor via ferrata style. Climb using the rock, the cable and fixed protection in whatever manner feels safest and most enjoyable.

       Some bridges can be quite wobbly but all are well secured and protected. Some, particularly the two-wire and three-wire variants, can feel extremely exposed.

       Try to avoid having more than one climber clipped onto any single section of cable at the same time. Normally you should leave enough room between climbers so that, should the higher climber fall, there is no risk that they will hit the lower one.

       The majority of routes have an indicated direction СКАЧАТЬ