Название: Via Ferratas of the French Alps
Автор: Richard Miller
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Спорт, фитнес
isbn: 9781849657761
isbn:
STAGE B
L’Oeil de l’Éléphant
Length | 300m |
Ascent/Descent | 375m (750m, if combined with Stage A) |
Route grading | technical grade: 5; exposure: 5; seriousness: A |
Time | 2hrs 30mins (approach: 25mins; route: 1hr 30mins; return: 35mins) |
Technical notes | direction: SE; escape points (to Stage A): 2 |
Route
Start as for Stage A: within 10m diverge from the easier route and climb straight up the face for 35m and cross the Traversée du Doute. This steeply rising traverse of 15m constitutes the first real challenge, being both noticeably strenuous and the first point at which the exposed nature of the route can be properly appreciated. Arrive at the Mur des Lamentations, a vertical climb of 20m with some reasonable overhangs on it. A little more steep traversing brings you to the first escape point.
If you really struggled with the first section, consider taking the easier route as the next part is just as arduous but even more exposed. This consists of a long rising traverse, occasionally interrupted by some overhangs. The largest of these, near the top of the section, is the eponymous Oeil de l’Éléphant (crux). This involves a highly muscular and airy move part-way along a generally strenuous passage of 15m. The second escape point is found a little way above this.
Between the first and second escape points on l’Oeil de l’Éléphant, with 100m of exposure underfoot
The third and final section may come as a disappointment or a relief depending on how you have found the route so far. Begin with a climb followed by a traverse, both of a few metres each and all somewhat overhanging. Difficulty then reduces significantly along with a marginal drop in exposure as a long rising traverse is followed. The cable tops out onto a grassy hillside before rejoining the easier route.
STAGE C
Mini Via Ferrata
Length | 100m |
Ascent/Descent | 45m (795m, if combined with preceding stages) |
Route grading | technical grade: 1 (variant: 3); exposure: 2; seriousness: A |
Time | 45mins (approach: 10mins; route: 25mins; return: 10mins) |
Technical notes | direction: W; escape points (within stage): 0 |
Approach
From the parking place briefly walk uphill to a minor road and turn left. Follow the road, passing the junction with the path for the other stages, and continue to a rock-climbing area above the hamlet of Bas Thex. A little way beyond an information panel, take the first path to the right and immediately you will see two via ferrata lines alongside many bolted sports climbing routes.
Route
Ascend the left-hand cable. Scale a just off-vertical slab for 25m to a narrow ledge. Either continue climbing for 10m or walk along the ledge to the right to take a harder variant. This harder option begins by ascending through a moderate overhang for a few metres before continuing up to join the other route. Another alternative is to continue along the ledge to the right to join the descent route. From the top of the climb, the cable heads right and descends broken ground without particular difficulty.
ROUTE 5
Via Ferrata du Saix du Tour
Location | Avoriaz, Haute-Savoie (GPS: Lat. 46º 11’ 25.86” N Long. 6º 46’ 39.88" E) |
Length | 600m |
Ascent/Descent | 225m |
Route grading | technical grade: 3 (variant: 4); exposure: 3; seriousness: B |
Total time | 3hrs 15mins (approach: 20mins; route: 2hrs 25mins; return: 30mins) |
Highest altitude | 2023m |
Map | 3528ET |
Technical notes | direction: SW; escape points: 3 |
When to visit | May to October |
Useful website | www.avoriaz.com |
The ski resort of Avoriaz cannot be described as the most attractive of places. During the summer, this jumble of architecturally dubious apartment blocks typically resembles a building site, but this is more than compensated for by the beauty of its mountain setting as well as the presence of a high-quality via ferrata crossing heavily striated bluffs above the resort. With several escape points and two variants, the via ferrata offers a wide variety of challenge; however, the general standard is reasonably demanding, especially for the first half of the route. There is quite a lot of rock contact in places and a pair of boots with good grip, and a rest lanyard, are recommended. The route is situated at a relatively high altitude and due consideration should be given to the effects of poor weather. Watch out for some loose rock on and above the route.
Access
From Morzine, follow the D338 to the ski resort of Avoriaz. The resort is theoretically car-free for most of the year, so you may have to park on its outskirts. Walk (or drive if permitted) through the centre of the resort via Rue des Traîneaux. At the bottom of the road look out for a large via ferrata information panel next to a small car park and a Sherpa supermarket.
Avoriaz, from the Passage du Berger
Approach
From the Sherpa supermarket, walk downhill along a gravel track for a minute and then turn left at a sign for the via ferrata. Follow a clear path up grassy slopes to the base of the bluffs.
Route
Start with a climbing traverse (l’Emotion). This gives a good idea of the nature of the rest of the route. A short down-climb on hidden stemples is followed by an awkward move around a corner. Arrive at the first escape point.
The next part (Le Passage du Génépi) follows a gradually rising line until a somewhat strenuous climb of 10m brings you to a narrow, airy ledge. Follow this until a second, similarly strenuous climb of 10m. A little beyond here, you are presented with two options:
1 Keep left to take a straightforward route that ascends gradually around a shallow bay in the cliff-face.
2 Alternatively, go right to cross the slightly wobbly 20m-long bridge (Pont de la Vot’nette) and climb up for 15m. This climb is quite strenuous, with one move halfway up, at the most exposed point, being particularly tricky. Depending on your height you will probably have to make one or two smears with your boots.
Above this, the two routes rejoin and difficulty reduces as the second escape point is passed, heading off to the left along the Sentier des Moutons. To the right is a good rest spot next to a shallow cave (La Grotte des Ardoisiers). Beyond this, a lengthy cabled walk along the Passage du Berger and Balcon du Lac follows. This is briefly interrupted by an easy climbing traverse (La Traversée du Bénitier) before more walking leads to a short climb up the hillside. Above this is a second split in the cable and another choice of options:
1 Go straight up for the harder option, which involves climbing through a short but fairly heavy overhang (La Surplomb du Saix).
2 Go right for a much easier climb.
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