Walking in the Alps. Kev Reynolds

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      Early summer, and snow still lies on sections of the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise

      Next day is less strenuous, albeit almost as long as the last, demanding perhaps six hours or so for the route to Refuge de l’Arpont. But there are no real passes to negotiate, the trails are good and mostly clear and, since the way is shared by both the longer Tour of the Vanoise and the GR5, there should be no navigational skills called upon.

      Leaving Refuge du Fond d’Aussois continue downvalley through the lovely glen to a bridge over a stream that falls into the Plan d’Amont reservoir. At this point a crossing trail (GR5) is joined, bearing left (east) below Refuge de la Dent Parrachée, then on a track heading south-east to pass the privately-owned Refuge du Plan Sec. A short distance beyond this hut a footpath breaks away from the track near ski tows, crosses pastureland and makes a traverse of hillside high above the Maurienne. At a junction of trails near the ruined hutments of La Turra, the way climbs the flank of Roc des Corneilles in steep switchbacks to gain a well-made path cutting round a bare cirque formed by curving ridges of the Pointe de Bellecôte. Rounding a ridge spur projecting east of the same mountain, the trail then goes north-west and north along the GR5 into the Doron valley. As the way progresses, so views toward the head of the valley become more and more impressive; streams spill down from the Vanoise glaciers above to the left and ibex are often seen among pastures and stream-cut gullies on the approach to the hut. The Arpont hut enjoys lovely views south with the Doron gorge below to the east, but for the full bounty of northward views it is necessary to climb a short slope behind the hut.

      These views are gained next morning on stage four which leads to the Refuge du Col de la Vanoise and down to Pralognan – a demanding day’s trekking. In the early part of the season snow slopes often lie just beyond Refuge de l’Arpont, and caution will be required in crossing them. However, the slope soon eases with the trail crossing gentle grasslands below the eastern extent of the Vanoise glaciers. A little under three hours from Arpont the main GR5 trail descends steeply eastward into a glen below Entre Deux Eaux, while the route to the Col de la Vanoise is signed to the left, a trail that cuts along the east face of Point de la Réchasse. This eventually joins a major route (GR55) climbing from Pont de Croé-Vie. Near this junction stands a large triangular memorial stone erected in memory of two army officers who perished in the mountains. The route to Col de la Vanoise climbs left and soon enters the long windy trough leading to Refuge du Col de la Vanoise, beyond which the well-marked but tiring mule-track descends to Pralognan.

      Tour of the Vanoise

      This longer route, which extends that of the Vanoise glaciers tour outlined above, makes an excellent circuit of the massif in 10 to 12 days, providing a series of magnificent experiences and a first-class overview of the National Park, and is arguably the finest expedition open to walkers in the western Graian Alps. In some respects it stands comparison with the much better-known Tour du Mont Blanc, while being not so demanding as the Tour de l’Oisans in the neighbouring Dauphiné Alps. Accommodation with meals provision is available every night in mountain huts or valley hotels and gîtes d’étape. Backpacking is therefore unnecessary, and in summer walkers should be able to tackle the circuit in a two-week holiday without the burden of a heavy rucksack.

      Modane to Refuge du Plan Sec

      Modane makes an obvious starting point. Access is straightforward, and a short but steep approach on the first day leads to Refuge de l’Orgère. It is a steep approach too, in forest for much of the way on a trail with numerous junctions, but signposts and waymarks are sufficient to ensure the correct trail is taken. On occasion momentary views are allowed through the trees down to the bed of the valley, while the upward view is almost always concealed by dense forest cover. When rare open meadows are crossed (meadows extravagant with alpine flowers in early summer), the long trench of the Maurienne is revealed off to the right, its southern walling mountains of modest appeal except towards the east where they grow in stature. Those higher peaks will be seen to good effect later on the tour. Half an hour from Orgère a track is crossed near the Pierre Brune chalet. If this is followed to the right it will lead to an alternative hut, the privately-owned Refuge de l’Aiguille Doran.

      From the National Park’s Orgère refuge the Tour of the Vanoise crosses the mouth of the Orgère glen and follows the route of GR5 heading north-east along an undulating trail, at first through forest, then rising over steep hillsides of grass where sheep graze high above the Maurienne, passing one or two isolated stone buildings before descending a little to the grass saddle of Col du Barbier. The col is more a shallow grass scoop than a proper col, with a gentle grass dome nearby overlooking the valley, and a clear hint ahead that the glen soon to be entered will provide good things to enjoy.

      The Aussois glen is a rewarding place to wander. The trail picks its way along the western slopes some way above the Plan d’Aval man-made lake, with its thunderous roar of water floating on the breeze. The cascade seen far below is part of a hydro-electric СКАЧАТЬ