Walking in the Alps. Kev Reynolds

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      Below Val d’Isère the Isère river enters the dammed Lac du Chevril, then continues roughly northward as the eastern moat of Dôme de la Sache and Mont Pourri, whose long glacial fingers are valley-bound between dividing spurs and ribs, the National Park boundary tracing just below them. The eastern, or right-hand walling mountains, form the border with Italy in an extensive north-south ridge system topped by a number of fine peaks culminating in the ‘beautiful gleaming sickle’ of the Aiguille de la Grande Sassière (3747m). Trails lead up to these frontier mountains, to the glaciers of the Grande Sassière, to Col du Rocher Blanc and nearby Col du Lac Noir (both of which cross to Rifugio Mario Bezzi high in the Val Grisenche), to Col du Mont and Col de la Sassière (the last a long way north of the peak of the same name), both of which again provide crossing points into Italy.

      There are few villages of any noteworthy size in this stretch of the Isère, but Ste-Foy-Tarentaise sits at a junction of roads, one of which provides access to a cluster of glens worthy of exploration between the main valley and the frontier ridge, where projecting spurs create magnificent cirques, some of which have tempting trails that link huts in neighbouring glens. Refuge du Ruitor in the Sassière glen, and Refuge de l’Archeboc (or la Motte) in the Vallon de Mercuel, for example, are joined by a trail that crosses the Arête de Montseti. The CAF’s Refuge du Ruitor is particularly well situated for routes onto the crusty frontier ridge, on the eastern side of which the extensive Glacier du Ruitor makes an impressive sight. Avoiding this glacier a choice of crossings (some trackless and requiring good visibility) may be made into Italy from a base at the Ruitor hut, via such cols as du Tachuy (2673m) and de la Louie Blanche (2567m), where continuing routes descend over wild country to Rifugio A. Deffeyes and a series of spectacular cascades that drain the Ruitor glacier above La Thuile.

      Tour du Mont Pourri

      On the west side of the Tarentaise Mont Pourri dominates the lower valley with its ponderous mass of snow and ice. In 1829 William Brockedon travelled from Bourg St-Maurice to Val d’Isère, describing the mountain thus: ‘Towering over this sombre valley, rises one of the grandest mountains in the Alps from its magnitude, and one of the most beautiful from its form – its vast mass of snow and glaciers surmounted by a triangular pyramid of pure white.’ Walkers understandably drawn to this mountain will find local publicity for a three-day tour that is growing in popularity. Two nights are spent in mountain huts (Refuge du Mont Pourri and Refuge de la Martin), but since the Martin hut has no meals provision, food will need to be carried for at least one night. The recommended start and finish of this tour is the purpose-built ski resort of Arc 2000, reached by a tortuous road from the Isère valley near Villaroger, or more directly from Bourg St-Maurice.

      From Arc 2000 the way leads south initially among ski lifts to Plan de l’Homme and Col de la Chal (2457m) and continues below Aiguille du St-Esprit to the CAF-owned Refuge du Mont Pourri situated just inside the boundary of the Vanoise National Park at 2370 metres, and reached in little more than three hours from Arc 2000. An alternative approach comes from Les Lanches in the valley of the Ponturin through which GR5 makes its way from Landry.

      The second stage continues southward along the west flank of Mont Pourri towards the head of the Ponturin valley, but then slants left at the Chalets de la Plagne to begin the ascent to Col de la Sachette (2713m). The upper part of the climb goes through a wild and rocky landscape, and the terrain on the initial descent is every bit as rough as that on the ascent. The col is situated on a ridge carrying the PNV boundary south from Dôme de la Sache, and just below and to the north of Rochers Rouges (3002m). The view east shows the Aiguille de la Grande Sassière and other frontier mountains across the depths of the Isère valley, and the first part of the descent is a little exposed and demanding care. However, although the route maintains its rough character and is steep for quite some way, the path itself improves and eases through the Vallon de la Sachette where there are several little tarns. Veering left below the Vallon de la Sache where the path forks, the way passes below glaciers that drape unseen down the face of Dôme de la Sache, and eventually reaches the PNV-owned Refuge de la Martin. At the end of this stage there should still be time, energy permitting, to wander up a good trail from the hut to gain a close view of the Glacier de la Savinaz in an austere setting.

      For the final stage of the Tour du Mont Pourri follow a trail that descends northwards to la Gurraz, then rise on a track that becomes a footpath leading to another PNV hut, the unguarded Refuge de Turia which takes its name from Mont Turia, a summit just to the north of Mont Pourri to which it is joined by a splendid crest. The Arc 2000 trail continues beyond the hut and crosses a ravine, passes below the Aiguille Rouge and Signal de l’Aiguille Rouge, then descends steeply to a junction of paths. The way now veers left along the mountainside with Mont Blanc in view ahead to the north, and joins a track leading to a chairlift. Rounding the northern flank of Aiguille Rouge the buildings of Arc 2000 are soon visible and completion of the tour in sight.

      Vallée du Ponturin

      Flanked by the Sommet (or Dôme) de Bellecôte (3417m) on the west, and Mont Pourri to the east, the Ponturin flows from just below Col du Palet to Landry where it joins l’Isère. In its upper reaches the valley’s glacial origins are obvious, but lower down it is river cut, the steep hillsides clothed with mixed forests. Landry is an obvious point of entry, for it has a railway station on the line which goes to Bourg St-Maurice, and a bus service to Peisey-Nancroix a few kilometres inside the Ponturin valley. Landry village, for a village is what it remains, has hotel accommodation and a campsite. The GR5 passes through after having crossed the Beaufortain Alps from Mont Blanc, and then strikes southward along the Ponturin valley on its way to the Vanoise massif. The GR5 therefore gives the valley the mountain walker’s seal of approval. The small but sophisticated resort of Peisey-Nancroix, noted for its slender, handsome church, sits on the right flank and provides some winter appeal with cross-country ski facilities, while three huts (four if you count Refuge du Mont Pourri) effectively underline the opportunities that abound here for the exploration of some fine mountain country. Apart from Landry, Peisey-Nancroix and these huts, overnight facilities are available in the hamlets of Le Moulin and Nancroix. The valley also has a campsite and gîte d’étape.

      As for the huts, these are the PNV’s porte du parc, Chalet-Refuge de Rosuel which is accessible by road; the privately-owned Refuge d’Entre le Lac above the Lac de la Plagne; and Refuge du Col du Palet situated, as its name implies, just below Col du Palet across which GR5 briefly leaves the National Park to descend to Lac de Tignes. Refuge du Mont Pourri has already been mentioned, and is accessible from the valley by a trail which climbs from Les Lanches.

      Walking routes abound, and with accessible cols providing opportunities to cross the walling ridges to east and west, a variety of hut-to-hut tours are possible. Beginning in the lower part of the Ponturin, one such option sets out from Le Moulin and enters the tributary glen of the Nant Benin which flows from the south. Sections of this glen have been sacrificed to the ski industry, but there’s still some worthwhile country to wander through. At its head Col de Frête (2492m) is a dip in the ridge linking Roche de Mio and the Sommet de Bellecôte, and from it a way leads down the south side to Champagny-le-Haut and another porte du parc, Refuge du Bois.

      Upvalley from Le Moulin, Chalet-Refuge de Rosuel has an unusual appearance in that its turfed roof has a wave-like shape designed to reduce the impact of avalanches. Situated near the roadhead, and with parking facilities, it is obviously very busy throughout the summer. Refuge du Mont Pourri is easily accessible from Rosuel either by the trail from Les Lanches a short way downstream, or from another path which cuts back from the GR5 upvalley towards the Chalets de la Plagne. СКАЧАТЬ