Walking in the Alps. Kev Reynolds

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СКАЧАТЬ one cableway (the Mont Bochor téléphérique) and a limited number of ski tows and chairlifts. Reached by bus from Moutiers, Pralognan sits at the junction of three valleys and has much to offer as a base for a walking holiday with several modest hotels, gîtes d’étape and campsites, and access to a variety of mountain huts. Trails abound, and in the height of summer they can be very busy indeed, with accommodation at a premium in Pralognan and the surrounding huts.

      The main valley flows roughly northward downstream of the resort to Le Villard and the Doron de Champagny, its upper reaches leading to wild country headed by Col de Chavière, while a steep tributary glen enters Pralognan from the east over which the Grande Casse reigns supreme. The National Park boundary crosses the summit of the Grand Bec, a mountain that effectively separates Pralognan’s valley from that of Champagny, chooses a serpentine course around the east of Pralognan itself and, working southward, edges the right flank of the Chavière valley whose upper reaches it encloses by veering west and north to include Aiguille du Fruit, thereby setting a limit to the outlying Courchevel-Méribel ski playgrounds.

      Col de la Vanoise

      Of all walks from Pralognan perhaps the most popular is that which climbs steeply to Refuge du Col de la Vanoise (2517m), otherwise known as Refuge Félix Faure after the French president who visited the site in 1897. As its name suggests, the hut is situated at the col, a long trough in full glorious view of the Grande Casse and a choice selection of aiguilles and blank slab walls nearby. With a difference in altitude of some 1100 metres between Pralognan and the col, it is surprising the amount (and shape, size and age) of tourists who make the climb. Admitted, it’s possible to drive as far as Les Fontanettes, thereby saving 200 metres of height-gain, and there’s the téléphérique too (use of this involves descent from the top station in order to get onto the trail), but even so there remains a lot of fairly steep uphill to contend with. Red faces in early summer invariably match the brilliant alpenroses that grow beside the trail.

      As a destination in its own right, the Col de la Vanoise is well worth devoting a day of one’s holiday to; never mind the crowds – although, of course, it’s better if you can avoid them by setting out early. The standard route from the roadhead car park at Les Fontanettes follows a dirt track/broad trail through forest, then past Refuge les Barmettes and across the Glière torrent to enter the National Park. Now the way steepens again in many footpath braidings among low-growing shrubs and marmot burrows, mountains growing in stature all around. The shallow Lac des Vaches is traditionally crossed on stepping stones with the great slab face of Aiguille de la Vanoise soaring above to the right, and as the trail continues from the north-eastern end of the tarn, so a close view is given of climbers at work on that face. As the way curves towards the south so the Glacier de la Grande Casse is seen hanging above to the left. The way becomes increasingly stony as it switchbacks up to Lac Long, seen below to the left shortly before gaining Refuge du Col de la Vanoise, about three hours from Les Fontanettes. High above the lake soars the Grande Casse, which looks impressive from the hut, as do the Aiguille and Pointes de l’Epéna, and Pointe de la Grande Glière to the north. The refuge, which consists of more than just one single building, is owned by the CAF, has over 150 places and a guardian in residence from mid-June to the middle of September when meals are provided. Needless to say, it’s well patronised by the crowds who toil up the track during the day, but who go no farther. Those walkers in search of tranquillity will do better by continuing south-eastward through the long, fairly level trough of the col where more lakes, screes, meandering streams, alpine flowers and marmots, and magnificent views, abound.

      There are fine cross-country routes to tackle which continue to the Vallon de la Leisse (on GR55), or south of that to Entre Deux Eaux and the Vallon de la Rocheure, or to Plan du Lac; or even down the west flank of the Doron gorge to Refuge de l’Arpont, thereby reversing a section of the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise. Each of these will give a magnificent and full day’s walking from Pralognan. But should a return be planned to Pralognan, rather than reverse the route of ascent there’s a circuit to be made by heading south-west from the hut to Lac des Assiettes (by mid-summer this is often almost dry), then down through a hanging valley below the Glacier de l’Arcin. The descent is rough and more challenging than the standard route. It is also a little longer, taking almost three hours to reach Les Fontanettes.

      Other Options from Pralognan

      South of Pralognan, Refuge de la Vallette sits high on the right flank of the Chavière valley on a hillside shelf below the long rock wall that supports the Glaciers de la Vanoise ice sheet. A trail climbs to it from Pralognan by way of the Isertan forest, while linking trails lead to Col de la Vanoise by way of the Col du Grand Marchet (2490m) and the Fontanettes-Lac des Assiettes path. Another walkers’ route heads south from the Vallette hut on a strenuous crossing of Col d’Aussois (2916m), and descends from there to Refuge du Fond d’Aussois in the Aussois glen that drains into the Maurienne. This latter route forms part of the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise outlined below. Incidentally, there are three further routes by which the Col and Refuge du Fond d’Aussois may be gained from the Chavière valley. The first leaves the valley road near Les Prioux and climbs to the Chalet des Nants where the Vallette trail is joined. Next is a track coming from the roadhead at Pont de la Pêche, with a path that continues above Montaimont, while the third breaks away from the GR55 trail upstream from La Motte, crosses the Chavière to the Ritort alp, and climbs in zig-zags from there to join the main Vallette-Col d’Aussois route on the right bank of the Rosoire stream.

      When crossing Col de la Vanoise, trekkers gain a direct view of the Pointe de la Glière and Aiguille de la Epena

      Opposite Refuge de la Vallette, on the west side of the Chavière, rises the Petit Mont Blanc (2677m), a popular modest peak that attracts walkers by a choice of footpaths starting from the Chavière valley, as well as via other routes of ascent beginning in a glen on the west side of the mountain made accessible from Courchevel. One of the Chavière routes begins downstream of Pont de Gerlan; one leaves the GR55 path upstream of that bridge, another from Les Prioux hamlet, and yet a fourth from a track between Pont de la Pêche and La Motte. Petit Mont Blanc (or Petit Mont Blanc de Pralognan to give its full title) is so-named for the exposed white gypsum deposits from which it is made. The summit is reached by way of a series of strange craters, and from the crown extensive views include the Vanoise glaciers seen across the valley to the east.

      From the summit it’s possible to link with a ridge-walk along the Crête du Mont Charvet, gained by way of the Col des Saulces (2456m) and a trail along the west flank of the Dents de la Portetta, or return to Pralognan via Col de la Grande Pierre. Alternatively descend west from Petit Mont Blanc to the little unguarded PNV hut, Refuge des Lacs Merlet in a corrie below Aiguille du Fruit, and spend the remainder of the day exploring that corrie, then make a circuit of the aiguille next day, passing Refuge du Saut where the trail divides. By heading south-east, cross Col Rouge (2731m) and descend to the GR55 at a point midway between Pont de la Pêche and Refuge de Péclet-Polset in the upper Chavière valley. From there either head upvalley to Péclet-Polset, or turn left and wander downstream to Pralognan. Those who go up to Refuge de Péclet-Polset will find it very busy by day with walkers making a visit from the roadhead at Pont de la Pêche. Above the hut a low ridge gives lovely views onto the milky-blue waters of Lac Blanc, while to the south an uncompromisingly wild patch of country encloses the valley-head in a stony amphitheatre with the dipping Col de Chavière offering an escape route to the Maurienne.

      It will be seen, then, that Pralognan is not short of walking routes, and a holiday based there will serve well those who prefer their mountains tempered with comfortable sociability of an evening. The map is liberally outlined with blue-traced possibilities, while refuge symbols indicate a range of multi-day tours available for those with a taste for this kind of walking holiday. Of these, the best of all outings to be made in and around the Vanoise National Park is the 10-to-12-day Tour of the Vanoise described below from Modane, and the shorter version, the four-day Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise which is publicised СКАЧАТЬ