Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

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СКАЧАТЬ often concealed by helmet; looped and knotted with hairpin at top extending through metal helmet; short hair signified mourning.Headdress: helmet and broad-brimmed hat.Footwear: richly embroidered shoe and half-boot with heel of moderate height.Accessories: dagger inlaid with golden figures worn in broad belt.Jewelry: necklace; rings; bracelets for wrist and upper arm; jeweled pin on mantle.Typical Colors: gay colors; blue-black, purplish-brown, white, yellow-green, gray, and white.Typical Materials: patterned fabric used for loin cloth.Make-up: apparently none.

      3 WOMEN (Minoan or Cretan, 2800-1200 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper: short-sleeved bodice, low neckline, very small waist.Outer lower: ankle-length, bell-shaped skirt with flounces.Hair: several strands of curled hair to waist, remainder of hair in elaborate knot.Headdress: tall-crowned, narrow-brimmed hat.Footwear: shoe with moderately high heel; often barefoot.Accessories: ornamental stick pin; beautiful gold buttons.Jewelry: long string of beads; golden necklace; ring; bracelet for wrist or upper arm.Typical Colors: refer to B. 7.Typical Materials: patterned cloth.Make-up: apparently none.

      4 MEN (Homeric or Archaic, 1200-510 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: long chiton worn by young and old at first; then knee-length Ionic chiton, sometimes open down one side with the edges fringed; later, open side sewed; by 5th century B.C., similar to woman’s Ionic chiton with portion on upper arm gathered; later, long chiton worn only by older man, by the 5th century B.C., short chiton for young man; double-girded Doric chiton, worn by athlete; chiton shaped or cut away under arm; crinkled chiton also used; kolpos; apotygma; kolobus.Cloaks and overgarments: himation sometimes worn alone with no other garment, the only garment worn by philosopher or very learned man; chlamys introduced, c. 500 B.C.; ephebi.1. Caul 2. Cap with Small Brim 3. Phrygian Cap 4. Pilos 5. Fillet6. Doric Chiton 7. Ionic Chiton 8. Ephebi, Sandal 9. CeryphalosHair: long hair usually done up in braids, knot, curls, or coil, and held by band; long braids crossed in back, the 2 ends fastened in front; short hair above forehead combed to conceal ears; long hair worn by elderly man; hair cut in honor of the dead; short hair worn by athlete; beard of soft wavy curls or stiff and pointed, without mustache, young man beardless.Headdress: petasus; pilos; Phrygian cap; fillet, net or kerchief, or wide bands worn by athletes and charioteers; purple petasus draped with white scarf, signifying royalty; brim of petasus sometimes in 4 sections, with 2 turned up; small skull cap under helmet of warrior; himation and chlamys often thrown over head, stephane.Footwear: generally very elaborate; barefoot, or sandal worn in the house; sandal with straps wrapped around leg; ankle-height shoe, often laced from foot to top of shoe; shoe probably made on last, construction of right and left shoes followed the shape of the foot; high boot for horseman and hunter; boot with large tongue; buskin; cothurnus; carabitina.Accessories: long walking stick; utilitarian glove for boxing, gardening, eating hot food and kneading bread; wax tablet or roll and stylus; olive wreath over woolen fillet signifying victor in Olympics; ivy wreath for winner of recitations honoring Dionysus, and victor in dramatic contests; laurel and parsley for bard, orator and poet; myrtle wreath for Aphrodite, goddess of love, and as an emblem of peace and plenty; olive for Athena, goddess of the arts; oak leaves for Zeus, king of earth and air, also worn at religious festival; garland of wild parsley worn at funeral; wreath of fresh flowers, worn by man at banquet; sunshade sometimes used by dandy.Jewelry: beautiful workmanship, yellow gold, silver, and bronze; usually not set with jewels; plain gold band worn by royalty, jeweled band for king, lord, and various divinities; fibula and stephane decorated with jewels; seal ring; gold pins and ornament worn in hair, before 5th century B.C.Typical Colors: various bright colors for chiton and himation, saffron, blue, and Tyrian or red-purple dye from the mullusk; red and yellow, at border of apotygma and tunic; other colors used were dark red, brilliant red, and vermilion; blue, in paintings, but not in dyes; indigo, yellow ochre, emerald green, veridian, apple green, gray, brown, and black; white for aristocracy; black, purple, dark green, and gray for mourning; green, gray, and brown worn by peasant; white, real gold, and silver used in embroidery; later, colors in the Hellenic Period less vivid, spotlessness, sign of good breeding; plain colors or all white used; gold, saffron, and purple, purple cothurnus; gilded sandal worn by nobility; yellow, white, red, and natural-colored sandal, by others.Typical materials: expertly woven cloth, horizontal and upright looms used; linen, wool, and hemp for chiton; Doric chiton, at first of wool, Ionic chiton, or semitransparent material of silk or linen; cloth used in garments made by the mistress and daughters of the house and by the maid servants; all-over patterns on cloth, painted, dyed, or embroidered; sometimes, painted or gold-decorated borders embroidered or woven into garment; narrow gold plates and pliable wire worked into material; fret borders, and all-over patterns of sprigs, flowers, and leaves, woven into woolen or crinkled linen cloth; forms of domesticated animals and wild beasts also used in designs which were copied from the Persian weaver who in turn had taken the idea from India; later, transparent linen woven in olive oil; coarse woolen and hemp; some furs worn, skin of lion, leopard, and goat.Make-up: great care used in being well groomed; manicure, perfume.

      5 WOMEN (Homeric or Archaic, 1200-510 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: short or long peplos, forerunner of chiton, 1200-600 B.C.; long chiton; Doric chiton, 550 B.C.-A.D. 100, girded or ungirded, narrow at first; natural waist line; chiton sometimes ornamented with scrolls and dots; double girded chiton worn by Spartan woman; Ionic chiton, 600 B.C.-A.D. 200; crinkled Ionic chiton, more transparent than Doric type; sometimes, Doric chiton worn over Ionic chiton; kolpos; apotygma.Under: strophion; undertunic.Cloaks and overgarments: elaborately draped himation; chlamys, sometimes twisted and worn as girdle; diplax; diploidon; skin of leopard or other animal worn by huntress.Hair: stiffly waved on forehead, giving effect of scalloped edge; side ringlets and coronet of stiff curls on forehead, with hair hanging down back and over shoulder in snake-like curls, often held in place by fillet.Headdress: sometimes unadorned; fillet or wreath worn around head; fillet narrow at first, later becoming wider; miter worn by lady of rank; tiara; diadem; ampyx; ceryphalos; bandeau; stephane; petasus worn as protection from sun; Phrygian cap; veil or small chlamys draped over the head; flame-colored, semitransparent veil held in place by gold fillet, worn by bride; himation worn pulled up over the head, as a head or face covering; head covered for mourning and for performing sacrifices; veil worn with peplos; gold ribbon or string of pearls wrapped around head several times.Footwear: often barefoot; shoes, when worn, usually the most costly article of feminine dress; low open-work shoe; wooden or leather sole with thongs worn in earliest times; strip covering toes, used later; decorated or soft sandal; high-heeled sandal occasionally used to increase height.Accessories: mirror and vanity case; courtesan distinguishable by hand-mirror; long-handled fan of leaves or feathers, carried by slave; fan showing Egyptian, Assyrian, or Persian influence, later of linen or silk, always with a long handle; parasol of linen or silk, smaller than those used by the Assyrian and the Persian, also used over sacrifice, and chariot; girdle of beautiful and intricate metal work; ornamental hairpins of gold or carved ivory; stiletto to hold hair in place.Jewelry: yellow gold, worked in beautiful and intricate designs; good taste used in wearing jewelry; pearl or amber necklace; gold, silver, or bronze bracelet, shaped like a snake; plain or jeweled ring; pendant earrings; engraving on semiprecious stones, such as onyx, and jasper; stones not often set in jewelry until the following period; stickpin fastening chiton in early times, later, fibula.Typical Colors: refer to D. 7.Typical Materials: refer to D. 8.Make-up: white lead; false hair dyed different colors, including gold and silver; a salve used to soften and clean the skin; rouge of vegetable dye and red lead; oils and powders, perfume.

      6 MEN (Hellenic, 510-336 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: short chiton worn by all classes, fastened over left arm or pinned at intervals down the arm; sometimes part covering upper arm, sewed or buttoned; long chiton worn by elderly man, charioteer and man participating in a religious sacrifice; kolobus with long close-fitting sleeve, very fashionable; long sleeve showing Persian influence considered barbaric by some people. Refer to D. 1.Cloaks and overgarments: refer to D. 1.Hair: fairly short hair fashionable, after 5th century B.C.; sometimes resembled a short bob; hair bound with fillet; short hair for athlete; whiskers worn by young man; small patch of hair on each cheek, resembling sideburns, 5th century B.C. by young man.Headdress: refer to D. 3.Footwear: refer to D. 4.1. Bandeau 2. Himation 3. Splendone 4. Sakkos 5. Nimbus6. Chlamys 7. Sandal 8. Cothurnus 9. Peplos, Veil 10. BootAccessories: refer to D. 5.Jewelry: usually limited to 1 engraved seal ring. Refer to D. 6.Typical Colors: refer to D. 7.Typical Materials: cotton and СКАЧАТЬ