Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

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      The Homeric Period (1200-510 B.C.) was marked by the introduction of the alphabet, the beginning of Homeric poetry, and the great Greek colonization which was encouraged by the aristocrats and landowners. Due to the discontent among the landless people, the leaders in Greece advised them to settle on distant shores. The colonies that were established not only engaged in agriculture but developed commerce enterprises. In the Hellenic Period (510-336 B.C.) Athens became the center of Western civilization, and art and culture reached its highest development. Commerce and industry flourished. History lists many important names of this time: Herodotus, historian; Aeschylus, Euripides, Aristophanes, dramatists; Myron and Phidias, sculptors; Socrates and Plato, philosophers. The Hellenistic Period that followed (336-146 B.C.) included the Alexandrian era (337-323 B.C.). The latter was dominated by Alexander the Great, Macedonian King, who founded the city of Alexandria in 331 B.C. and became King of Persia after his successful invasion of that country. The great cultural era of philosophy, literature, and art ended with the death of Alexander. His general, Ptolemy, founded the Ptolemaic Dynasty which lasted in Egypt until the death of Cleopatra in 30 B.C. The Gauls from the West raided Macedonia and Greece about 277 B.C., crossing Asia Minor to settle in Phrygia. The Romans appeared later and conquered Corinth, bringing Greek independence to an end.

      Throughout the Grecian period the lines of the costume remained similar. The exquisite quality and beauty of cloth distinguished the Homeric Age; the cut and manner of wearing garments were significant later. Although many tunics were often worn at one time, a sumptuary law regulated the number of tunics to three or less when they were worn to funerals or festivals. The influence of the luxury of the Orient and of Byzantium was reflected in elaborate embroideries and jewels.

      During Homeric times, the life of the woman was free and dignified. She stayed close to her household where she exercised a certain amount of authority, taking charge of the affairs of her husband when he was off at war. A woman was forbidden to enter the professions. A case is cited of one woman who posed as a man and became a famous physician but when she was found out by jealous male rivals they brought a lawsuit against her. This resulted in an amendment to the law which made it legal for women to practice medicine. The making of clothes, weaving, and embroidery occupied the time of women of high rank.

      As life became more luxurious and intellectual interests dominated Athens the woman did not have the opportunity to participate in the social life of her husband. By the time of the Golden Age of Pericles, her life had become that of a cloistered slave. Before she was married at the age of sixteen or seventeen she had seen and heard little of life. She seldom left the house and if she did, she was always accompanied. Although she could attend religious festivals and family gatherings she seldom was allowed by her husband to be in the public eye. While keeping his wife sequestered the husband sought more intellectual and lively companionship with the hetaerae, a class of independent, educated women of Athens. These women were usually foreigners who were not permitted to marry men who were citizens of Greece. One of the most famous of this class was Aspasia whose salon was frequented by all the great men of the time. She was not only intelligent but a charming personality and a leader of fashion who wore her costume in a distinctive way. It is said that a few of her male friends introduced their wives to her and that she urged them to seek to improve themselves intellectually so that they could be better companions of their husbands.

      The Dorians were only at the pastoral stage of development when they invaded the Cretan territories. Soon after they were in their new environment, the Dorian man took over the duties of farming, various types of handicraft, and engaged in commerce. The majority of the inhabitants worked in agriculture, producing animal products, vegetables and grains, cultivating olive trees for oil and grape vines for wine. All forms of manual labor, commerce, and business were considered degrading by the aristocratic Athenian; work of this kind was left to their social inferiors.

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