Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

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СКАЧАТЬ shawl, fringed along lower edge for king or high priest; mantle with purple tassel at each corner; voluminous mantle used for many purposes including covering of body, as a carpet, and carryall.Hair: ointment used to make hair glossy; semilong, sometimes braided in many braids or left in curls or waves; fairly long, neatly trimmed beard.Headdress: headcloth worn by shepherd; miter; cap with pointed top falling backward or forward, sometimes with brim, or drapery in back; turban.Footwear: barefoot; sandal; shoe extending to ankle.Accessories: inscriptions on parchment worn on forehead and wrist by devout man; highly ornamented girdle.Jewelry: usually none, sometimes in prosperous times of the Jewish kingdom, nose rings, necklaces, and gold chains adopted by some men.Typical Colors: many hues, especially purple.Typical Materials: goat’s or camel’s hair first used, later fine wool or very fine cotton; rich cloth woven with gold; stripes popular; first tunic of linen, second of wool; leather girdle, later of metal adorned with precious stones; richer and finer fabrics in the time of King David, 1000 B.C.Make-up: hair powdered with gold dust, worn by pages preceding Solomon on ceremonial occasion.

       E. WOMEN (Hebrew, c. 1000 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: simple loose tunic to ankle, sometimes fringe or rich embroidery at neckline, girded at hip; sometimes tight-fitting tunic with girdle worn indoors; short sleeve or sleeveless; gown with long sleeve; later more voluminous costume, outergarment with sleeve to middle of hand.Cloaks and overgarments: large cape-like garment having huge sleeve.Under: undertunic or chemise to knee.1. Mantle 2. Tunic 3. Shawl 4. Cidaris 5. Kandys 6. Kalasiris 7. Tiara 8. Phrygian Bonnet or Cap 9. SandalHair: elaborate braids.Headdress: head always covered; low or high cap covered with gold ornaments; very thin or coarse veil, sometimes covering entire head and face, with eyeholes permitting wearer to see, sometimes forehead and throat wrapped; cap of net, wool, cotton or gold thread, tassels at back, sometimes interspersed with gold beads or precious stones; cap also decorated with pearls.Footwear: barefoot; sandal; shoe.Accessories: sometimes fold of girdle served as purse; mirror of polished metal, including silver and copper; silver, gold, or ivory stick used for applying make-up to eyes.Jewelry: gold, silver and other metals used in ornaments; rings set with rubies and emeralds, worn on all fingers; series of bracelets of gold or ivory sometimes worn from wrist to elbow; anklets; earrings sometimes worn along upper edge of ear; often drop earrings, cluster of grape-shaped ornaments on earring; necklaces of many rows of pearls; nose ring, sometimes a number worn; dangling ornaments of gold in hair; gold or silver pendants.Typical Colors: purple or scarlet mantle, rich colors popular; purple border on outer tunic, gold embroidery; white or cream also used; yellow, purple, or crimson belt; sometimes gilt sandal; dark somber tones used by common people.Typical Materials: linen, wool, and silk (the latter may have been introduced into Bible lands by merchants who brought it from India whence it had come from China); costliness of material distinguishing rank of wearer; thin muslin used first for outer garment, silk used later.Make-up: custom of painting margins of eyelid with kohl adapted from Egyptian woman; eyebrows arched with inner ends meeting each other; hands colored with henna; perfumes and oils used.

       F. MEN AND WOMEN (Medes, 835-750 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: long-sleeved kandys of man held by girdle; foot-length tunic, gathered at front and side; coat-like garment; long tunic worn by woman.Cloaks and overgarments: purple cape worn by chief priests, the cut varying with rank.Hair: enormous quantities of false hair.Headdress: miter, sometimes highly embroidered; aigrette worn as ornament in hair by woman; hood with 2 strips, 1 falling over shoulder, and 1 down the back.Footwear: shoe slit at instep and fitted with a tongue; richly embroidered, laced boot worn by wealthy; leather boot, by common people.Accessories: girdle; staff with gold knob used by priest.Jewelry: chain; ankle bells worn by woman.Typical Colors: brilliant colors including purple; white worn by priest with blue and white cord around cap; blue and white cord around cap also signified relative of the royal family; often light-colored boot.Typical Materials: leather; coarse fabric; fine cloth of cotton and silk often beautifully embroidered.Make-up: eyelid and eyebrow painted.

       G. MEN (Assyrian-Babylonian, 884-606 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: girded tunic, low neckline; sleeved kalasiris for nobleman, long; short tunic for slave.Under: loin cloth.Cloaks and overgarments: richly embroidered shawl, sometimes worn without tunic, rectangular piece drawn under one arm, fastening with clasp on shoulder; sometimes, with opening for head and one arm; large, draped shawl for king; narrow fringed scarf similar to baldrick; extravagant use of fringe and tassels toward end of period; fringe indicative of rank; long fringed scarf crossed over breast, worn by prime minister; double fringed scarf, by master of ceremonies; short fringe, by king’s attendants; scarf not worn by lesser officials.Hair: black curly bushy hair, or wig, to shoulder; bang; fairly long, square-cut, bushy beard; mustache curled at ends.Headdress: fillet; headbands crossing on temple forming a kind of bonnet; flat rings of graduated size with rosettes at center front, side, and back; bandeau with 2 cords descending from a rosette; pointed fez-like tiara of gorgeous fabric trimmed with scarlet; ornamental bands sometimes extending to waist, often trimmed at side with double bullock horns fastened against a lily; dome-shaped turban or miter for king or god; crown; white striped diadem and white claft; Phrygian bonnet or cap; fez worn by nonroyal person.Footwear: barefoot, sandal, and high-laced boot; gold tassels or buckle on sandal.Accessories: high collar; narrow belt over wide close-fitting leather belt; baldrick; girdle usually with tassels; mace or stick, 2 feet long with ornamental knob; fan; fly whisk; ebony comb; umbrella; long apron worn by some members of the priesthood.Jewelry: large, heavy earrings; bracelet; armlet; rings; gold collar.Typical Colors: white, black, Tyrian purple, red, and gold; all-over pattern and border.Typical Materials: elaborately embroidered cloth; linen; wool; dressed leather. Assyria famous for beautiful weaving.Make-up: eyelids and eyebrows no doubt painted.

       H. WOMEN (Assyrian-Babylonian, 884-606 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: long tunic with 3-quarter length sleeve, belted or unbelted, low neckline, similar to type worn by man.Cloaks and overgarments: fringed, rectangular shawl draped over right shoulder.Hair: Grecian influence; braids and waves; long bushy bob; sometimes arranged in a knot, mass of curls, or in symmetrical rolls.Headdress: veil; fillet or crown for royalty.Footwear: barefoot or sandal; high laced boot for hunting.Accessories: belt with clasp.Jewelry: close-fitting necklace resembling dog collar; gold collar similar to the one worn by man; large heavy earring; bracelet; armlet.Typical Colors: refer to F. 7.Typical Materials: refer to F. 8.Make-up: rare perfume; pungent oils and cosmetics; hair, hands, and nails colored with henna.

       I. MEN (Persian, 550-330 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper: tunic belted or unbelted, extending to knee or longer, sleeveless or with wrist-length, set-in sleeve.Outer lower: tight-fitting trousers.Cloaks and overgarments: girded long or short robe, similar to the one worn by the Egyptian, fullness often under the arm.Hair: enormous bushy wig of curled hair, shorter than Assyrian; sometimes with long braids worn over shoulder; round or pointed beard joined to thick mustache.Headdress: band or fillet 3 inches wide sometimes worn low on forehead; king’s crown wider at top; domed hat with ribbon hanging in the back; also deep cap covering neck and entire head except the face; later, turban; cidaris; hood with peak standing straight up, falling back, or omitted entirely by servant, warrior, or hunter.Footwear: barefoot, soft shoe, or moccasin having turned-up toe; sometimes piece of leather wrapped around foot and tied over instep; type of low heel shoe protected the foot from the burning sands.Accessories: walking stick; umbrella; fly whisk; cane rod carried by priest; javelin; knife.Jewelry: used sparingly; earrings; chain; gold collar.Typical Colors: purple robe lined with white; yellow, yellow-green, blue, or blue-green.Typical Materials: tanned hide used at first, later, linen.Make-up: perfume.

       J. WOMEN (Persian, 550-330 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper: longer and wider tunic than that worn by man, closed in front and girded with fringed sash; very voluminous in latter part of period.Outer lower: breeches to knee or ankle at first; very full pantaloons in later period.Cloaks and overgarments: fringed scarf or cape; scarf fringed on both ends and side.Hair: hair falling about shoulders, usually covered by a veil.Headdress: fully veiled; head and shoulder covered.Footwear: barefoot, or soft shoe with turned-up toe.Accessories: sash with fringe.Jewelry: necklace, bracelet, earrings, ring, ankle bells.Typical Colors: refer to I. 7.Typical Materials: leather; thin fabric used for full trousers. Refer to I. 8.Make-up: eyelid and eyebrow painted.

       K. СКАЧАТЬ