Bartending. Margaret Brooker

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      Buckwheat Though botanically not a true cereal, buckwheat is treated as such. Once husked, the whole seeds, which are triangular in cross section with pointed ends, may be cooked in the same way as rice, most famously in kasha, the porridge-like dish of Russia. Ground into a black-flecked greyish flour, it is made into pancakes, notably Russian blini and Breton galettes, noodles, especially the Japanese speciality soba, and cakes. It has a strong, distinctive taste.

      Quinoa Pronounced ‘keen wa’, these are tiny discs of grain girded by a small band of bran. A staple of the Andes, this pseudo-cereal has a high concentration of amino acids so, unlike other grains, it is a complete protein. When cooked it expands to four times its original volume and becomes translucent, the bran visible as a curly tail. Cooked quinoa has a delicate flavour and a texture akin to caviar, and can be served like rice, couscous or millet. The uncooked seeds can be ground into flour.

      Sago The virtually pure starch extracted from the sago palm, which is made into a paste and dried to become sago flour or pressed through a sieve, then dried, to become pellets known as pearl sago. Cooked, sago turns from white to transparent, and is bland, its texture resiliently squishy. The basis of British nursery puddings, sago is now little used in Western cooking. In Asia, sago is used in both forms, notably with coconut milk and palm sugar in the dessert gula melaka.

      Tapioca The starch extracted from the roots of cassava or manioc plants, which are refined to a paste, dried, then heated to form flakes or pellets, called pearls, or ground into flour. Used in puddings and to thicken soups and stews, tapioca becomes translucent when cooked, gelatinously chewy in texture and has a subtle taste. In some Asian countries, it is much used in sweets and drinks. In the UK, it is historically known as the ingredient in a milk pudding.

      Linseed The tiny seed of the flax plant, also known as flax seed. Primarily used to produce oil, it is sometimes used as a food grain, sprinkled over dishes and mixed into baked goods, sprouted, or ground into flour, which becomes mucilaginous (glutinous) when wet. Rich in nutrients, especially omega-3 fatty acids, linseed is consumed more for its health benefits than its mildly nutty taste. Its high oil content means it goes rancid quickly.

      Millet The general name applied to many similar but distinct cereals, most of which have alternative names. All are very small grains, with a high protein content, but otherwise vary in their quality and flavour. They are consumed whole, or ground into a coarse flour, typically as porridge or flatbreads. Able to grow in poor conditions, millet is a staple in hot, dry regions but not much eaten in western countries.

      Other flours and Starches

      Soya flour A fine creamy-yellow powder ground from grits of hulled soya beans from which the oil and soluble carbohydrates have been removed. Although it contains no gluten-forming proteins, it is rich in other forms of protein and fat and low in carbohydrates, and is usually mixed with other flours to improve the protein, volume and keeping-quality of baked goods. Food manufacturers exploit its binding qualities. In Japan, where it is called kinako, it is used for confectionery.

      Potato flour A very fine, brilliant white powder made by grinding either steamed, dried potatoes or the starch extracted from pulverized potatoes by a washing process. Also called potato starch, farina and, in France, fécule, it is used as a thickener, producing clear, light sauces. Being more effective than cereal starches, less is required. It is used in baked goods for its gluten-free status and for the moist crumb it gives.

      Urad A creamy-white powder ground from hulled urad or urd black lentils, also known as black gram. It is the basis of the traditional idlis (dumplings) and dosas (pancakes) of South India and is also used to make poppadoms.

      Spelt An ancient, non-hybridized cereal grain related to common wheat, also known by the German name of dinkel. It contains more protein, and thus forms more gluten, than common wheat, yet seems to be better tolerated by those with gluten allergies. Ground into flour, spelt can be substituted for common wheat flour and behaves like whole-wheat flour, imparting a distinct nutty, wheaty flavour.

      Arrowroot A fine white powder extracted from the rhizomes of the tropical maranta plant. Containing 80 per cent starch, it is used as a thickener for sauces and glazes. Because it becomes clear when cooked and has no taste, it is considered superior to cornflour. To avoid lumps it should be slaked in cold liquid before cooking. It breaks down if overcooked, causing sauces to separate. СКАЧАТЬ