Walking in Sicily. Gillian Price

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СКАЧАТЬ described the fearful creatures in lakes and rivers, not to mention Siracusa’s famed fountain Fonte del Ciane, where they lurked amongst the giant papyrus. On the other hand, fossil evidence from the Nebrodi mountain range clearly speaks of elephants, rhinoceros and hippopotamus, whereas prehistoric graffiti and cave paintings on the island of Levanzo depict donkeys and bison, along with tunny fish and dolphins. Present-day species are those that managed to live through the ravages of World War Two and extensive deforestation, after centuries of relatively peaceful cohabitation with agricultural man. Survivors range from shy deer and foxes to the wild boar and elusive porcupine (introduced by the ancient Romans for its delectable flesh), and even noisy walkers can count on seeing hordes of wild rabbits and the occasional larger creature such as mouflon. A Mediterranean native, this wild sheep frequents rugged scrub mountain flanks and can be distinguished by its showy curved horns.

      A fair range of snakes enjoy this sun-blessed island, and one of the longest and most commonly encountered is a swift and irritable black colubrid, which is harmless. The viper or adder (vipera in Italian), a venomous snake with diamond/zigzag markings on its light brown-grey back, is to be taken seriously. Bare feet and flimsy sandals are best avoided, as is sitting on sun-baked rocks without giving prior occupants time to slither away.

      The delightful transparent, creamy-coloured Sicilian gecko abounds, distinct from the more usual Mediterranean type. This miniature dragon darts about striking daring poses on walls inside and out in search of insects.

      Despite the over-fished state of the Mediterranean, majestic swordfish and silvery tuna of up to 200 kilos are a common sight in the markets, especially towards summertime. The former are pursued predominantly around Messina from curious boats (feluca) whose masts are fitted with slender lookout towers some 22m high. A similar extension of the prow serves the harpooner. Tuna, on the other hand, are subjected to a complex group hunt and meet their end according to age-old traditions that see them first captured in a labyrinth of nets and chambers, as per the mattanza still practised in the Egadi islands.

      The picture on the bird front is a little more cheerful. Pink flamingos have returned to coastal bird sanctuaries along with an impressive number of waterfowl such as herons, egrets and the elegant black-winged stilt (the cavaliere d’Italia), easily recognised by its long, spindly and unsteady crimson legs, almost comical as it fishes in shallow water. Dominant birds in the countryside tend to be flashy magpies and squawking jackdaws, though there are also melodious skylarks and nightingales, and some impressive birds of prey. In spite of the annual slaughter many are subjected to on their return south across the Strait of Messina, the list includes buzzards and kestrels, the peregrine falcon, Bonelli’s eagle and elegant Eleonora’s falcons, most of which are to be considered endangered. The latter are renowned for their evening group hunting forays when they prey on smaller, weary species. The unusual Egyptian white vulture, or pharaoh’s chicken, reportedly survives in the mountains, as do rare pairs of golden eagles.

      A frequenter of stony ground and clearings, the Sicilian rock partridge is not an unusual sight scurrying along a track trailing its young, while memorable is the eye-catching hoopoe running and bobbing its way along pathways. This unusual and showy bird is identifiable by its trademark crest of black-tipped, chestnut-brown feathers and black and white striped wings. A summer migrant in northern Europe, it often winters over in Sicily in preference to Africa.

      Sunset over the Sciara del Fuoco (Walk 46)

      THE NORTHEAST COAST

WALK 1

      Taormina and the Castello Saraceno

Start/Finish	Taormina railway station
Distance	3.5km/2.2 miles
Ascent/Descent	400m/400m
Grade	1
Time	2hr
Maps	Town map from Tourist Office
Access	Taormina’s railway station (Taormina-Giardini) is served by all Messina–Catania trains. Buses (Interbus) also stop here before proceeding uphill to the town, where it is feasible to slot directly into the upper part of the itinerary if desired. A novel way to access the town is by cable-car (funivia): from Mazzarò on the coast it ascends the mountainous eastern flank, to terminate a short distance from Porta Messina. Drivers on the A18 autostrada will need the Taormina Sud exit, then the SS 114 coast road, and are advised to seek parking on the outskirts of town.

      This popular scenic route makes use of old winding trails on the picturesque hillsides around the erstwhile Graeco-Roman settlement of Tauromenium, now a charming tourist attraction. The site was originally occupied by the native Sicel population and is set in a dominating position high over the sea in a series of spacious recesses and terraces on the flanks of lofty Monte Tauro. The actual town was founded in the 5th century BC by refugees fleeing from the destruction of nearby Naxos, the pioneer Greek colony in Sicily; in fact, Taormina’s landmark, an unusual and beautiful theatre ensconced in the mountainside, dates back to that period. The thriving settlement was eventually seized by the Arabs in the 10th century, only to fall to the Normans some time afterwards, as happened all over the island. Path closure: due to minor landslips the path from the railway station up to the town is currently closed after Madonna delle Grazie – and awaiting repairs.

      Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina

      Taormina enjoys a marvellous Mediterranean climate with mild winters, long ensuring its fame as a haven for foreigners of a literary penchant, such as Goethe, D.H. Lawrence and Lawrence Durrell. A must for all visitors to Sicily, the town offers attractive, stately buildings set amid lush vegetation – the likes of the ornamental palm from the Canary Isles shade many a garden. Bougainvillea adds splashes of colour, while omnipresent orange trees thrive in this sun-blessed climate, their divine perfume wafting down back-streets and alleys.

      The walk itself follows well-graded mule tracks and, once the town has been traversed, continues uphill to a photogenic sanctuary and Saracen castle. Magnificent views range over the sparkling Ionian Sea and coastline and take in the majestic spread of Etna. An easy route for anyone who can deal with gradual climbs from sea level to 400m in altitude. It is however unsuitable in the central part of the day in summer as shade is scarce, but highly recommended at other times of the year, preferably late afternoon to catch the sunset from the castle. Naturally Taormina has no lack of opportunities for refreshment or accommodation.

      Cloud-capped M. Etna, visible from Taormina’s gardens

      The Walk

      The route starts from the beautifully restored Art Deco-style railway station, enveloped in heady orange blossoms that are nothing short of overwhelming in spring. Take the road northeast in the direction of Taormina and after some 300m, where it squeezes through a row of houses, turn off left, following the signpost for the ‘centro’. Right past a grotto-cum-shrine, a ramp leads to a pathway for the winding ascent through scrubby vegetation. Views over the sea are impressive from the word go. After the modest church of Madonna delle Grazie is a stiff but short climb to the verge of a sprawling hotel complex – go left up the stairs to Via Roma. Here it’s СКАЧАТЬ