Walking in Sicily. Gillian Price
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Название: Walking in Sicily
Автор: Gillian Price
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Спорт, фитнес
isbn: 9781783621170
isbn:
THE ALCANTARA RIVER VALLEY
The Alcantara River rises at 1200m above sea level in the Nebrodi mountains in the northeastern triangle of Sicily, and flows eastwards for 48km to the Ionian Sea. En route it passes between the rugged Peloritani range and the imposing volcanic flanks of Etna. Heading towards the coast it runs through several striking gorges, patiently channelled out over geological time by the impetuous watercourse, which swells with spring snowmelt from the volcano and seasonal rain.
Eons ago a minor volcano discharged a massive flow of lava that followed the same course, spreading a good 20km. The rock is basalt, solidified from a long-gone volcanic cone. This translates into flashing black walls of infinite angles that reflect the sparkling waters.
Tree trunks carried by the current once served as makeshift links between one bank and the other, though ruins of numerous bridges still dot the banks – presumably the reason for the Arabic origin for Alcantara, from al Qàntarah for ‘bridge’. Fertile imaginations however attribute the origin to a legendary construction thrown across by the devil in a single night. In any case historical records of navigating the waterway date back to ancient times, many involving the proximity of the first Greek colony in Sicily, at Naxos below Taormina.
The most spectacular stretch of the river – and one of Sicily’s top tourist attractions – is the Gole di Larderia, usually referred to as the Gole dell’Alcantara, 15km inland and well signposted. A narrow gauge railway ran along the valley 1958–1978 and encouraging talks are currently underway to re-open the line for tourists. In the meantime the area is accessible by either car or Interbus on the SS 185. Steps lead down to the valley floor (note: there’s a free-of-charge ‘Comunale’ entrance).
Teeth-chilling cold water flows through the narrow cliff passage, and many visitors opt for waders to explore. Be warned that it is usually closed after heavy rain due to debris which obstructs the river and poses dangers for visitors, while on good days it can get very crowded.
Wading up the Alcantara gorge
In quieter spots, animal life can be expected in the shape of frogs and toads, the rare Hermann’s tortoise and other more common types, a number of harmless snakes, and a host of water birds such as grey herons.
In addition to the gorge, the surrounds offer worthwhile walks in the realms of a newly established park which extends along the course of the river, encompassing over 31,000 hectares. The Parco Fluviale dell’Alcantara (Alcantara River Park) has its headquarters at Francavilla di Sicilia Tel 0942-9899 or www.parcoalcantara.it.
Bathing at the Alcantara River gorge
WALK 3
Monte Mojo
| Start/Finish | Mojo Alcantara |
| Distance | 4km/2.4 miles |
| Ascent/Descent | 200m/200m |
| Grade | 1–2 |
| Time | 2hr 15min (1hr 15min with a car) |
| Access | Mojo Alcantara lies some 28km inland from Taormina and 10km from Francavilla, to which it is linked by bus on weekdays, courtesy of the Interbus line. Those arriving by car need the SS 185 which turns east away from the Ionian coast, a short distance south of Taormina. Drivers coming from Randazzo can take the SS 129 as far as Passo Pisciaro then turn north for Mojo. |
| Variant | If you are arriving by car you can cut 1hr off timing by driving as far the path start. Refreshments are available at Mojo. |
Mojo (also spelt Moio) is a sleepy backwater in the Alcantara hinterland. In addition to the sweet juicy peaches it produces, the main reason to pay a visit is the curious 703m-high mound at the rear of the village. The long-extinct volcano is recognisable from afar standing out in a blaze of unbelievably bright yellow broom in springtime. It was long believed to have pre-dated Etna itself, and fed on the same underground lava pool. Back in the mists of time the modest vulcanetto exploded and spewed ash and volcanic bombs over the surrounding countryside. Moreover Monte Mojo was long held responsible for spilling the thick river of lava that flooded the Alcantara valley, partially blocking the course of the river and leading to the formation of its spectacular gorges. However, more recent credible theories attribute this to Monte Dolce on the Etna massif.
The local people tell a different tale to explain the mount’s presence. Once upon a time two farmers who were brothers made their home here. One was unfortunately blind and the other, named Mojo, decidedly evil-intentioned, and hid the harvest. This was brought to the attention of the Almighty who took appropriate action: a massive bolt of lightning struck the wrongdoer, turning him into a huge black volcano, rooted to the spot; it consequently exploded as Mojo spewed out his anger!
While unpretentious, the remaining cone is well worth visiting both for its panoramas and the wonderful display of wild orchids it puts on in the late spring.
The Walk
Leave the sleepy village of Mojo (525m) and head north past the petrol station at the start of Via Vanella Mojo. Not far after the cemetery as the road curves right for Malvagna, leave it for a minor road straight ahead (closed to heavy traffic). Climbing a little, it passes a fascinating old quarry, where contrasting deep red and black layers of pyroclastic material underlie the bright green and yellow of broom and ferulas. A little way uphill at a stone hut is the path start, announced by a signpost (30min). At a sharp left a broad, well-constructed path of lava blocks heads west between olive groves and oaks. Check the low walls for pieces of volcanic bombs. An easy steady climb ensues to the grassed rim of the extinct volcano and a fork. Below, survivors of a long-gone orchard straggly grape vines and chestnut trees nestle inside the crater. Turn left for the narrowing path which ascends more steeply on rougher terrain. This slope is thick with insect orchids. On top of Monte Mojo (703m), the wonderful views are dominated by majestic Etna, with the Nebrodi range to the northwest and Peloritani northeast, including Monte Castelluzzo close-by.
It’s worth completing the entire circle of the rim, taking care on the steep descent to the fork, Return to the path start and Mojo the same way you came. Accommodationsee Walk 4 for Francavilla or Walk 41 for Randazzo
WALK 4
Francavilla and the River
| Start/Finish | Municipio at Francavilla |
| Distance | 3km/1.8 miles |
| Grade |
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