Walking in Sicily. Gillian Price

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      The season and areas visited will dictate specific clothing needs. Loose-fitting cotton garments over a layered base is a good rule, though a pullover or fleece will be appreciated for evenings in the mountain areas. Weatherproof gear is indispensable all year round for the volcano walks as well as the high-altitude routes in the Madonie range. Coastal paths, on the other hand, often call for a windproof jacket outside of summer, while inland routes may require long trousers for the inevitable overgrown thorny stretches. While shorts (for both sexes) are acceptable beachwear in Sicily they are not worn in the countryside, and may cause embarrassment or disapproval in small towns. Discretion is recommended.

      It goes without saying that the list of essentials includes a water bottle, sunglasses, a hat (shade is a rare commodity in Sicily) and high-factor protective sun cream, which can double as a remover for the treacherous blobs of tar that occasionally stain the shoreline. Swimming and snorkelling equipment (goggles at least) are optional but warmly recommended, while an altimeter and compass come in handy where waymarking and useful landmarks are lacking. Bird enthusiasts will appreciate a pair of binoculars. A basic first-aid kit with plasters and insect repellent is suggested, as is a torch or headlamp for the cave in Walk 9 and the tunnels in Walk 12.

EMERGENCIES

      The following services may be of help should problems arise. Remember that calls made from a public phone require a coin or prepaid phone card to be inserted, though no charge is made for the short numbers or those starting 800, which are toll free.

       Polizia (police) Tel 113

       For health-related emergencies, including ambulance service (ambulanza) and mountain rescue Tel 118.

       CAI Soccorso Alpino, the mountain and speleological rescue service run by qualified volunteers from the Italian Alpine Club, can be contacted on Tel 095-914141 or 095-643430 for the Catania area, and on cell Tel 339-3533513 for the Palermo region. The service is available to everyone, however those other than members of CAI and affiliated associations covered by insurance will be billed.

       The high risk of fire in the long, dry summer months means that open fires of any nature are totally banned throughout Sicily’s park areas, often on a permanent basis. Forest and bush fires should be reported to the Vigili del Fuoco (fire brigade) on Tel 115 or to the Corpo Forestale dello Stato (State Forestry Department) on Tel 1515.

       ‘Aiuto!’ is ‘Help!’ in Italian, and ‘Pericolo!’ means ‘Danger!’

Reaching Sicily

      By plane

      Sicily is served by both low-cost and regular airlines from overseas, along with the odd charter flight in summer. Alternatively travellers can fly in to other main Italian destinations such as Rome and reach Sicily by a connecting domestic flight. The island’s two useful airports are listed below with their websites, which give the companies that use them.

      Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino airport at Punta Raisi (www.gesap.it) takes flights operated by Ryan Air (www.ryanair.com) from the UK. A 40min trip by train will see passengers in the city centre, otherwise it’s 50min by bus. Several long-distance coach lines, such as those going to Trapani and Agrigento, also stop at the airport.

      Catania’s Fontanarossa airport (www.aeroporto.catania.it) takes British Airways’ flights (www.britishairways.com) and Air Malta (www.airmalta.com). Located a mere 6km to the city’s south, it has frequent shuttle buses to and from the centre and the main railway station. Coaches to more distant destinations (eg Siracusa) also call in.

      By ferry

      Sicily is easily reached from mainland Italy by train or car; the journey entails crossing the legendary Strait of Messina on the non-stop ferries from Villa San Giovanni to Messina. Long-distance trains from central and northern Italy use this route, and the carriages are shunted into the ship’s hold for the crossing. Drivers, on the other hand, can make their way to the well-signed port area for the car ferries.

      Finally, Palermo is linked by high-speed and normal passenger ferries at various times of year with Naples, Cagliari, Civitavecchia (near Rome), Livorno and Genoa. Milazzo has year-round links to Naples, while Trapani has ferries to Cagliari and Tunisia, and Catania is accessible from both Malta and Ravenna by sea.

      Petralia Sottana (Le Madonie area)

Travelling Around Sicily

      An extensive network of public transport serves even the most remote angles of the island, and visitors are encouraged to make use of it. Though this may limit flexibility and be more time-consuming, it provides ideal opportunities to meet local people and, of great relevance, means one less polluting vehicle on the roads. Details of relevant public transport are provided in the ‘Access’ paragraph of each itinerary, and contact information for the companies is listed below.

      By rail

      Enthusiasts with time to spare will have a field day on the train lines, many single track, that snake their tortuous and scenic way through the marvellously varied country landscapes of Sicily. The nation-wide phone number for State Railways (Trenitalia) timetable information and reservations is Tel 892021, otherwise the web site is www.trenitalia.com.

      In addition, a privately run ‘toy’ train circles Mount Etna: the Circumetnea starts out from Catania and climbs gradually northwest, reaching almost 1000m above sea level. It skirts the volcano base, terminating at Giarre-Riposto on the Ionian coast once more, from where it is a short journey by State Rail south back to Catania. Service is suspended on Sundays and holidays. For timetable information Tel 095-541250/1 or www.circumetnea.it.

      By bus

      Veritable fleets of local buses and long-distance coaches operate across Sicily. Timetables are usually posted at the main stops, while tobacconists and cafés in small towns often act as ticket offices. Try to be at the bus stop early as drivers often depart ahead of schedule!

      By ferry

      Sicily’s island groups, including the Egadi and Aeolians dealt with in this guide, have permanent ferry and hydrofoil links, as outlined in the relevant sections.

      Cefalù and its headland (Walk 33)

      BUS CONTACT DETAILS

       AMAT www.amat.pa.it Palermo Tel 091-6902690.

       AST www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it Catania Tel 840-000323, Marsala Tel 840-000323, Palermo Tel 091-6800030, Siracusa Tel 0931-462711 and Trapani Tel 0923-21021.

       Caruso, Noto Tel 0931-894528.

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