Walking in Sicily. Gillian Price

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      This route offers two easy but spectacular circuits around a number of colourful craters, long inactive. Ranging between altitudes of 1846–1908m above sea level, a good distance below the smoking summit of Etna, is the cluster of six craters belonging to Monte Silvestri. Strictly speaking they belong to the group of 300 or so adventive (or parasitic) lateral cones that have over time opened up on the flanks of the great giant – in this case along a radial fault during a six-month eruption in 1892. This batch is especially attractive for its rainbow of coloured soils – green, red, white, yellow – in addition to the wide-ranging panorama on offer.

      Hotel-style accommodation is available at nearby Rif. Sapienza, as well as Nicolosi, which has a good choice of restaurants.

      The Walk

      From the restaurant (1880m), where visitors are exhorted ‘Visitate i crateri Silvestri’, take the clear path south flanking the first small exemplar of the Monte Silvestri Inferiore craters with its vivid chromatic tones. The broad rim of the main hole, some 50m in diameter, is circled next on prevalently reddish terrain. From the opposite side take the steep path which drops quickly on loose soil towards a further crater, unmistakable Monte Nero (black mount). Take care following its rim.

      Return to the main crater the same way – or via any of the numerous side paths which invite further exploration. The entire area is quite breathtaking. There are vast stark extensions of lava flows, their dark masses interrupted by islands of greenery that escaped the carnage. Further groups of adventive cones punctuate the landscape right down to the broad valleys that circle Etna, preceding the Ionian coast. The circuit is completed left around the main lower crater and back to the roadside restaurant (40min).

      Those with energy to spare should cross the road and embark on the steep path for the upper crater. A tiring red-black sand ramp bears north, at first skirting the recent lava flows which appeared to everyone’s surprise on the lower slope of La Montagnola in 2001. Swinging east then south, the path gradually gains the wonderfully scenic rim ofMonte Silvestri Superiore (1998m). The views range over neighbouring Monti Calcarazzi and the elongated Schiena dell’Asino crest, not to mention much further afield. A clear path continues west around the rim, before descending to join the ascent path, whence left back to the restaurant (40min). Accommodation Rif. Sapienza Tel 095-915321 CAI Nicolosi: B&B La Giara Tel 095-7919022

      Dwarfed to the size of ants, people explore the lower Silvestri rim

WALK 6

      Monte Nero degli Zappini Loop

Start/Finish	Piano Vetore
Distance	5km/3.1 miles
Grade	1
Time	1hr 40min
Maps	‘Mt Etna’ 1:25,000, Selca
Access	As per Walk 5, but leave the main road 2.5km west of the Area Etna Sud. There is ample roadside car parking. Those travelling by the daily Catania–Etna bus should ask to be let off at the ‘Sentiero Natura’ turn-off, then it’s a matter of minutes to walk in.
Note	After a lava invasion in 2003, the central section was modified. This may not be shown on older maps.

      This rewarding Sentiero Natura, the very first nature trail to be marked by the Etna Park authorities, leads through an interesting range of volcanic landscapes. It is within easy reach of the main Etna Sud zone, but is thankfully quiet and little visited. Moreover, the routes gives great angles onto Etna’s main summits and the columns of smoke issuing from the craters. Pockets of endemic plant life up the interest level. The sole note of ‘warning’ concerns the dearth of shade on all but the central stretch, making sun protection essential. Good trainers instead of boots are OK on this route.

      The Walk

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