Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

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СКАЧАТЬ wide, worn in front and back on dalmatica, tunica and stola, considered a badge of the upper class until the end of the 1st century.

      Birrus—cape-like garment with a hood of fairly thick fabric; worn in winter by nobility.

      Bracco—loose-fitting leg covering.

      Buskin—refer to Chap. 4.

      Calceus—most important type of shoe worn by citizen; consisted of a sole the shape of the foot, with straps fastened to the upper part and laced around the ankle; at first a brown leather boot.

      Calceus Patricius—strapped shoe of red leather with a high sole, laced with hooks and decorated with a crescent-shaped buckle, worn by nobleman.

      Calceus Senatorius—black leather shoe having 4 straps and no buckle, worn by senator.

      Camisia—undergarment worn by man which resembled the tunica interior.

      Capillamentum—wig of false hair.

      Capuchon—hood, attached to a cloak called paenula.

      Chlamys—shawl, similar in shape to himation, worn over chiton as a military cloak. Refer to Chap. 4.

      Cinctus Gabinus—garment drawn over head and girded, worn on solemn occasions. Pl. IX, 3.

      Circlet—refer to Chap. 2.

      Clavus—scarlet and purple stripe worn on the tunica, showing class distinction, used until the 3rd century; band of embroidery used in 3rd and 4th centuries.

      Colobium—similar to the Greek kolobus and made of wool or linen; although important as a man’s garment, 300-100 B.C., by the 5th century, insignificant.

      Corona Radiata—headdress of divinity representing rays of the sun.

      Cothurnus—refer to Chap. 4.

      Crepida—type of sandal laced across the arch with the heel and sides of the foot enclosed in leather or fabric.

      Cuculla—cape-like garment, similar to a poncho, used for traveling, and as a protection from the weather. Pl. IX, 2.

      Cucullus—hood attached to a paenula, sometimes worn without cloak.

      Dalmatica—loose garment with flowing sleeve open partly at the sides, and having clavi as decoration; worn over tunica interior, 3rd century. This dress was copied from a Dalmatian costume, hence its name.

      Diadem—refer to Chaps. 3, 4.

      Fasces—bundle of rods enclosing an axe, used by magistrate as a symbol of power.

      Fibula—refer to Chap. 4.

      Fillet—refer to Chaps. 2, 4.

      Institia—flounce or narrow border around bottom of dress, distinguished an honorable matron. Pl. VIII, 4.

      Kerchief—cloth used as covering for the head, or as an ornament.

      Lacerna—summer wrap of brilliant or dull, fine woolen fabric, sometimes with hood fastened at right shoulder with fibula; worn by nobility; resembled chlamys except for rounded corners.

      Laena—oblong, woolen cloak, similar to Grecian chlamys, sometimes thrown over head for protection.

      Latus Clavus—stripes about 3 inches wide, decoration of dalmatica and tunica; similar to angustus clavus.

      Mappa—large piece of cloth used to give signals for games, or used as table napkin. In late Republican times the mappa was supplied by the owner of the house, but in days of the Empire, guests brought their own mappas.

      Orarium—large napkin which the servants used to clean dishes.

      Paenula—short dark-colored semicircular woolen cloak with hood, adopted by peasant class; worn by both woman and man when traveling.

      Palla—shawl-like garment, resembling the Greek himation, worn by woman; fastened with fibula on left breast; often thrown over head. Pl. VIII, 2.

      Palliolum—beautiful veil, sometimes held in place by a wreath, worn by woman.

      Pallium—himation of the Greeks; rectangular mantle worn by man; superseded toga, by 2nd century; state dress and vestment of Pope, middle of 5th to end of 9th century.

      Paludamentum—long military cloak, usually purple or dark in color, sometimes white or scarlet; worn over armor or tunic; used in place of toga picta, after seat of government was transferred to Constantinople; corners of this cape were cut off in such a way as to make upper part smaller than lower, ankle length in 5th century. Pl. IX, 5.

      Patch—an item of make-up appearing from time to time throughout history.

      Petasus—refer to Chap. 4.

      Pomade—perfumed ointment.

      Sagum—practical, dark or red, thick woolen cloak, resembling paludamentum; pinned at right shoulder; worn by citizen in wartime. Pl. IX, 1.

      Sandal—refer to Chaps. 1, 2, 3, 4. Pl. VIII, 5.

      Segmentum—decoration worn on sleeve of tunic or dalmatica; embroidered.

      Sinus—upper edge of toga draped to form deeply curved fold falling at right hip; sometimes worn over head during sacrificial ceremony.

      Solea—informal type of sandal.

      Stephane—headdress similar to stephane worn by Greek. Refer to Chap. 4.

      Stola—long tunic, usually of woolen material, resembling Greek chiton, except that armhole was located at side instead of at top. In later periods several stolas of different lengths and colors were worn. In the 2nd century, the neck opening of the Ionic stola was finished with a narrow band.

      Stole—embroidered band or scarf used as part of ecclesiastical vestment of priest; said to be developed from the orarium which had become similar to the pallium.

      Subligaculum—loin cloth worn under toga. In the Empire Period an elaborately embroidered type was often worn by slave, gladiator, actor, and dancer.

      Subucula—undergarment or tunica interior.

      Sudarium—handkerchief, often embroidered with silk or gold, attached to pastoral staff in 8th century, later used as handkerchief; also worn around neck, in sinus of toga, or carried in the hand. Pl. VIII, 3.

      Toga—garment of natural-colored wool worn by Roman citizen; later of silk, worn by aristocrat. In earlier periods, it was small and semicircular, later, elliptical, measuring about 18 feet by 7 feet, with decoration on curved edge. The draping of this garment was very important and often signified the rank of the wearer. Pl. VIII, 1.

      Toga Candida—toga worn by candidate for office, similar to toga pura, but very white.

      Toga Picta—official robe of emperor; purple toga of fine woolen fabric, worn over purple tunica palmata, and embroidered or painted with conventional СКАЧАТЬ