Food of Australia (H). Wendy Hutton

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      Part One: Food in Australia

      The new "cuisine of the southern sun"

      by Tony Baker

      Australia's contemporary cuisine has, over the past fifteen years or so, joined the ranks of the world's best, thanks to the dazzling range of local ingredients, a truly multicultural society and a new generation of boldly creative chefs. It is a perfect drawing together of flavors and styles; of French traditional and nouvelle cuisine, regional Italian and pan-Asian styles laced with cool Californian chic.

      The evolution of the new cuisine seems to have taken place with startling swiftness. To write about Australian food a couple of decades ago would have been to invite disbelief, if not downright laughter, together with derisive remarks about kangaroo and emu steaks. While it is true that within a month of Captain Cook sighting his first kangaroo in 1770, a member of his party had eaten one, for most of the next two centuries, Australians aped the cooking styles of England, a country many still thought of as home, and one not particularly renowned for fine cuisine. It is also true that until the past decade, the wild fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds used for some 40,000 years by the Aborigines were totally ignored by the more recent Australian arrivals.

      With the huge influx of immigrants in the years following World War II, a largely Anglo-Celtic society was enriched, first by Europeans, then by Asians, as well as immigrants from countries as diverse as Chile and Iran. Today, Australian tastes are as cosmopolitan and multicultural as its population.

      Australians, perhaps the best-traveled nation in the world, have experienced firsthand the cuisines of Europe, Asia and America. So, too, have Australian chefs who, inspired by their experiences, have created a cuisine that benefits from the superb produce of this continental country, which produces everything from tropical fruits and herbs to cheese, wines and stunning seafood from the far south.

      Australian cuisine emphasizes freshness and shows great creativity in successfully blending cuisines from as far apart as Paris and Tokyo. This new "cuisine of the southern sun" complements the relaxed friendliness of modern Australia, and is as likely to be enjoyed on a verandah or in a courtyard as in a formal dining room.

      Wine is integral to Australian dining, since this happiest of revolutions has gone hand in hand with the discovery, both at home and abroad, that the fresh, clean, flavor-packed wines of Australia are comparable with—if not better than—those of the old wine world.

      As if all this were not enough, by the standards of other gourmet cuisines Australian food is remarkably cheap, as increasing numbers of tourists are discovering to their delight.

      All the elements for a fine picnic on the beach; seafood, cheese, salad and wine.

      An Endless Feast

      A continent full of superb fresh produce

      by Tony Baker

      From diamonds and gold to oil, Australia is exceptionally well endowed with natural resources. But for food lovers the greatest blessing is a range of climates, ranging from alpine to tropical. Add rich, ancient soils, some of the purest waters on the planet and guaranteed sunshine and the result is an endless feast of produce.

      Visit any big city market and this national feast will be temptingly arrayed before you. Visit the various states and territories and you will be offered particularly local ways of preparing the regional specialities, from the mangoes and mud crabs of Queensland to the apples and farmed salmon of Tasmania.

      Nowhere is this abundance more apparent than with Australian seafood, thanks to seas varying from warm to challengingly bracing, while the inland waterways contribute some unique crustaceans. To visit Queensland without tasting mud crabs and Moreton Bay bugs (similar to slipper or flathead lobsters) is to deprive yourself of two of life's intense pleasures. While you're there, you must also try such reef fish as red emperor, coral trout and pearl perch. In the Northern Territory as well as Queensland, barramundi fish, either large or small, is a must. Mention the Territory and you are reminded that Australian gourmets are increasingly partial to kangaroo, crocodile and buffalo. Traditional Territorians tuck into steaks that would embarrass folks in Argentina by their size. A popular local T-shirt has emblazoned on it the slogan "Eat beef, you bastards," a typically Australian approach to export promotion.

      The cold waters of Tasmania, the island-state off the south of the Australian continent, are renowned for magnificent seafood, including succulent oysters.

      No visit to Sydney is complete without oysters and what Australians call "a feed of fish, such as John Dory or yellowfin tuna. Tasmania has a better than fair claim to being the seafood capital. The cool seas around this island state have long been prized for tasty deep-water fish, such as trevally and blue grenadier, not to mention rock lobster, giant deep-sea crabs and scallops. Without doubt, though, Tasmania's gift to the world's gourmets has been the salmon produced in recent years from its fish farms, avidly sought whether fresh, smoked or sugar-cured. Move around Australia pausing only for plates of fish such as snapper and the King George whiting (a South Australian delicacy, entirely unlike the northern hemisphere whiting), or the magnificent abalone, yabbies (freshwater crayfish) and a cascade of shrimp and you see why sushi bars have become so popular.

      The same is true of fruit and nuts, as well as obvious joys such as mangoes, pineapples, pears and apples. The whole range of citrus—limes and mandarins and countless acres of oranges—are arrayed across the southeast Australian heartland. Berry fruits, grapes eaten fresh or dried into raisins and sultanas, apricots and peaches likewise fresh or dried, giant watermelons and nuts such as Australia's own buttery, crunchy macadamias abound. Think of a fruit and you can be sure that if it does not already exist in commercial quantities, an enthusiast is pioneering its production somewhere between the Indian and Pacific oceans.

      In southern Australia, olive groves and the pressings from wild olives now yield oils as distinctive as those of Italy and Spain. Mention of those two countries is an instant reminder that the contribution of immigrants, mainly European and Asian, to the national feast has not been confined to restaurants and market gardens. Australian salamis and other processed meats are of exceptional quality because the meat is good and because Italian, German, Polish and other producers brought ancient skills to their new homes. Italian pasta makers showed the way. Today's pasta makers are likely to be fifth generation Australians, and one must not forget the first generation Chinese noodle makers.

      Nuts range from walnuts grown on farms like this one in Milawa, northern Victoria, to macadamias, originally known as Queensland bush nuts and indigenous to Australia.

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