YO Sushi: The Japanese Cookbook. Kimiko Barber

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СКАЧАТЬ tend to come in bundles neatly tied with paper ribbons making it easy to estimate serving portions. The Japanese prefer their noodles to have koshi, which literally means ‘a hip’, although in a culinary context it means having a good texture – just as the Italians like their pasta al dente (tender with just a little bite). Unlike pasta, however, noodles have to be cooked through to the centre, but the outside must not become sticky and soft. Noodles cannot be cooked in advance – they have to be eaten straight away otherwise they become soggy. Compared to pasta, noodles take almost no time to cook, so you must have everything else ready before you start. The following method will give you successful results every time.

      Bring a large saucepan of water to a rolling boil over a medium to high heat. Untie the ribbons, if the noodles are tied, and drop in the noodles, giving them a quick stir with a chopstick to separate them. Stand by with half a glass of cold water and watch the pan. As soon as the cooking water begins to rise and is about to boil over, pour in the cold water. This will reduce the temperature of the cooking water so that the middle of each noodle cooks at the same speed as the outside. Depending on the thickness and dryness of the noodles, you may have to repeat this.

      To test if the noodles are done, lift out a strand and take a bite. Ideally the noodle will be tender all the way through, with no hard core, and the outside will be slippery without being too soggy. If you are making a large quantity, cook the noodles in batches and use a sieve or strainer to scoop out cooked noodles so you don’t have to pour away the cooking water. Whether serving noodles hot or cold, the Japanese rinse their noodles under cold running water to wash off the surface starch and then drain them well.

      choosing fish

      Many of the most popular dishes at YO! Sushi include raw fish. This must be perfectly fresh and of the highest quality. Buying good-quality, ‘sushi-grade’ fish is the first step in making delicious sushi, so it is always a good idea to get to know your local fishmonger. Good fishmongers are generally more than happy to talk about their fish and are pleased to give you advice. Instead of asking if the fish is fresh, ask how fresh it is or when it was caught, and also ask what they recommend. Tell your fishmonger that you are making sushi or sashimi. They will advise you on their fish and tell you if it is suitable to be eaten raw.

      When it comes to choosing a fish, a whole fish gives more clues about its freshness than a cut: the eyes should be clear, not cloudy, and they should be plump, not sunken. Look behind the gills – they should be bright red, not dark blood-red. The skin should be glossy and the flesh should feel firm and springy to the touch, free of any cuts or bruises. Fresh fish smells pleasantly of the sea.

      Although judging the freshness of cut pieces is more difficult, the same principles apply – look, touch and smell. Generally, avoid buying pre-packed cuts in supermarkets, as it is very difficult to tell how fresh the fish is and how it has been handled. Finally, remember to tell your fishmonger if you are making sushi or sashimi and ask them to prepare the fish for you. All good suppliers will fillet the fish for you, and may even cut it into pieces if you ask.

      how to slice fish for sashimi and sushi

      how to make hand rolls

      how to make maki

      how to make inside-out rolls (ISO)

      how to make nigiri

      how to make gunkan

      how to make tempura

      Tempura batter gives vegetables and fish a light, crispy coating for frying. The batter is best made using special tempura flour, which is available from Japanese grocery stores and large supermarkets. However, if you can’t get hold of it, use fine plain flour – do not use strong bread flour, which is too sticky.

      The batter needs to remain as cold as possible, so use ice-cold water to mix it and do not stand the bowl near the hob or any other source of heat. Tempura batter must be freshly made and used immediately. If you make the batter too far in advance or prepare a large quantity the batter will become heavy and sticky while you coat and cook all the portions. Have all the ingredients ready prepared and the oil heated before mixing the batter.

       Sauces, dressings and marinades

      teriyaki sauce

      This is one of the most commonly used sauces in the YO! Sushi kitchen. Teriyaki literally means ‘to glaze’. The sauce is brushed over a piece of meat or fish while it is grilling. It is particularly suitable for oily fish such as tuna, mackerel or yellowtail and for chicken. You can vary the proportions to suit your taste but the general ratio is 3 portions of soy sauce, 3 portions of mirin, 1 portion each of sake and sugar.

       makes about 300ml (10fl oz)

       150ml (5fl oz) soy sauce

       150ml (5fl oz) mirin

       50ml (2fl oz) sake

       50ml (2fl oz) sugar

      Mix all the ingredients together in a shallow saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium heat, stirring to ensure that all the sugar is dissolved. Reduce the heat to low and let the mixture simmer for a further 15–20 minutes or until the liquid has been reduced by a third and is syrupy and glossy. Let the sauce cool down completely before transferring it to a glass jar. Seal and store for up to 4 weeks in the refrigerator.

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