YO Sushi: The Japanese Cookbook. Kimiko Barber

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СКАЧАТЬ fried or to accompany other dishes (such as donburi or curry); the second method is for making rice for sushi (such as maki, nigiri, hand rolls, and inside-out rolls).

      cooking rice for non-sushi dishes

      Measure the rice into a large bowl and add plenty of cold water. Stir vigorously, then drain the milky water through a fine-meshed sieve. Return the rinsed rice to the bowl and repeat until the water runs clear. The rice will need between 3 and 5 washes before the rinsing water runs clear and will become slightly opaque as it begins to absorb moisture. Leave the rice in the sieve to continue draining for at least 1 hour before cooking. If you are short of time you can leave the rice to soak in the saucepan with the water for cooking (see below) for 10–15 minutes before you turn on the heat. A saucepan with a thick base (preferably curved rather than flat) and a tight-fitting, solid lid is ideal.

      To cook rice, you will need about 20 per cent more water by volume than dry rice. To serve four people use 300–400g (10–14oz) dry rice and 360–480ml (13–17fl oz) water. Put the washed and drained rice with the measured water into a saucepan over a medium to high heat and bring to the boil. Try to resist the temptation to lift the lid to see how it is cooking, as you want to keep all the steam inside – listen for boiling sounds instead. Depending on the amount of rice you are cooking, it should take between 5 and 7 minutes to reach a rolling boil. Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook for a further 5–7 minutes before turning off the heat. Do not lift the lid but let the rice stand for 10 minutes to cook in its own steam.

      With a moistened spatula, turn the cooked rice over from the bottom to fluff it up, and place a tea towel under the lid to absorb the steam and prevent it cooking further while you are waiting to serve.

      YO! Sushi tips

       A golden-coloured crust sometimes forms on the bottom of cooked rice. This is the equivalent of the crusty heel of a loaf and it can be broken up and distributed through the white rice or set aside to eat later with a sprinkling of salt.

       Rice is an annual plant typically harvested in the autumn in the northern hemisphere. In Japan, newly harvested rice – shin mai –comes on to the market from September to November. The American equivalent is often labelled as ?new harvest rice?, distinguishing it from previous years’ rice crops. Newly harvested rice is sweet and contains more moisture, so it needs less water to cook.

      cooking and preparing sushi rice

      Good sushi begins with good sushi rice. Of course, the quality and freshness of the fish is paramount, but the importance of the sushi rice is often overlooked. At sushi restaurants, su-meshi, (literally, vinegar-flavoured rice) is called shari – an esoteric reference to the bones of Buddha, which reflects the importance of sushi rice in Japanese food culture.

      To prepare sushi rice, you need less water than when cooking normal, plain-boiled rice because vinegar is added after cooking. The ratio of rice to water is 10 per cent more water than rice. See the chart below for quantities. To help the rice to cook through it must have absorbed moisture before cooking, so it is vital that the rice is washed and set aside for at least 1 hour before cooking. To make perfect sushi rice follow the 3 steps below.

      step 1: boiling the rice

      Measure the rice and pour into a large bowl. Add plenty of cold water and stir vigorously, then drain the milky water through a fine-meshed sieve. Return the rinsed rice to the bowl and repeat until the water runs clear. The rice will need between 3 and 5 washes before the rinsing water runs clear and will become slightly opaque as it begins to absorb moisture. Set it aside to drain for at least 1 hour.

      Put the rice and the measured amount of water (see the first table overleat) into a heavy-based saucepan with a tight-fitting lid and add a postcard-size piece of konbu into which you have made little tears. (The konbu is optional but it does give extra flavour to the rice.)

      Put the saucepan over a medium to high heat and bring to the boil. Try to resist the temptation to lift the lid to see how it is cooking, as you want to keep all the steam inside – listen for boiling sounds instead. Depending on the amount of rice you are cooking, it should take between 5 and 7 minutes to reach a rolling boil. Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook for a further 5–7 minutes before turning off the heat. Do not lift the lid but let the rice stand for 10 minutes to cook in its own steam. The next step is to make the sushi vinegar.

      step 2: making the sushi vinegar

      Sushi vinegar is added to cooked rice while it is still hot to create sushi rice. Although it can be bought in Japanese stores it is more economical to make your own and the flavour will be superior. The amount of sugar varies, depending on personal taste and what the vinegar will be used for. Generally speaking, a less-sweet vinegar mixture is suitable for raw fish whereas more strongly flavoured or cooked ingredients such as grilled eel, marinated mackerel, eggs and seasoned vegetables require a sweeter sushi vinegar.

      To make sushi vinegar, combine the rice vinegar, sugar and salt in a non-metallic bowl and stir well until the sugar and salt have dissolved.

      step 3: mixing the rice and sushi vinegar together

      In Japan a broad and shallow cedarwood tub called a hangiri is used to mix sushi rice. It is hard to find outside Japan, however, and a shallow wooden salad bowl with a flat base makes an excellent substitute. Alternatively use a shallow, flat-based dish. You will also need a spatula (a flat wooden one is ideal) and a hand-held fan, although a piece of cardboard or a magazine will do.

      Transfer the hot cooked rice to a moistened bowl or dish and use a moistened spatula to break up the mound of rice and to spread it evenly in the bowl or dish. Using the back of the spatula, sprinkle the sushi vinegar mixture over the rice (see opposite for quantity of vinegar to rice). Use the spatula to cut through the rice and turn it over in sections to distribute the vinegar throughout. Hold the fan in one hand as you turn the rice using the other, fanning it to cool it as quickly as possible. (This is easier if you have someone who can fan the rice for you as you turn it.) The rice will become glossy as it absorbs the vinegar mixture. Do not stir or mix the rice – this will make it mushy.

      If you are not making sushi straight away, cover the rice with a dampened tea towel to stop it drying out and stand it in a cool part of the kitchen out of direct sunlight.

      Prepared sushi rice will keep at room temperature for up to 4 hours – use the same day and do not refrigerate.

      how to cook noodles

      Noodles are very popular in Japan. Japanese people regularly eat huge quantities of soba, udon, somen and ramen, both at home and in noodle shops, at any time of the day or year. Whatever the size of the serving, noodles are never considered more than a quick bite or part of a main meal. In fact, noodles make an ideal snack as they are quick and easy to prepare, highly versatile, instantly satisfying and very digestible.

      Dried and semi-dried noodles in vacuum packs are now widely available outside Japan, so are good store-cupboard СКАЧАТЬ