First Footsteps in East Africa. Sir Richard Francis Burton

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СКАЧАТЬ steam frigate "Memnon," Capt. Powell commanding, was lost at Ras Assayr; a Norie's chart, an antiquated document, with an error of from fifteen to twenty miles, being the only map of reference on board. Thus the Indian Government, by the dilatoriness and prejudices of its Superintendent of Marine, sustained an unjustifiable loss of at least 50,000_l._

      [3] In A.D. 1836–38, Lieut. Cruttenden published descriptions of travel, which will be alluded to in a subsequent part of this preface.

      [4] This "hasty sketch of the scientific labours of the Indian navy," is extracted from an able anonymous pamphlet, unpromisingly headed "Grievances and Present Condition of our Indian Officers."

      [5] In A.D. 1848, the late Mr. Joseph Hume called in the House of Commons for a return of all Indian surveys carried on during the ten previous years. The result proved that no less than a score had been suddenly "broken up," by order of Sir Robert Oliver.

      [6] This plan was successfully adopted by Messrs. Antoine and Arnauld d'Abbadie, when travelling in dangerous parts of Abyssinia and the adjacent countries.

      [7] In A.D. 1660, Vermuyden found gold at Gambia always on naked and barren hills embedded in a reddish earth.

      [8] The writer has not unfrequently been blamed by the critics of Indian papers, for venturing into such dangerous lands with an outfit nearly 1500_l._ in value. In the Somali, as in other countries of Eastern Africa, travellers must carry not only the means of purchasing passage, but also the very necessaries of life. Money being unknown, such bulky articles as cotton-cloth, tobacco, and beads are necessary to provide meat and milk, and he who would eat bread must load his camels with grain. The Somal of course exaggerate the cost of travelling; every chief, however, may demand a small present, and every pauper, as will be seen in the following pages, expects to be fed.

      [9] It is described at length in Chap. III.

      [10] The author hoped to insert Lieut. Berne's journal, kept at Berberah, and the different places of note in its vicinity; as yet, however, the paper has not been received.

      [11] Harar has frequently been described by hearsay; the following are the principal authorities:—

      Rochet (Second Voyage Dans le Pays des Adels, &c. Paris, 1846.), page 263.

      Sir. W. Cornwallis Harris (Highlands of AEthiopia, vol. i. ch. 43. et passim).

      Cruttenden (Transactions of the Bombay Geological Society A.D. 1848).

      Barker (Report of the probable Position of Harar. Vol. xii. Royal

       Geographical Society).

      M'Queen (Geographical Memoirs of Abyssinia, prefixed to Journals of Rev.

       Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf).

      Christopher (Journal whilst commanding the H. C.'s brig "Tigris," on the

       East Coast of Africa).

      Of these by far the most correct account is that of Lieut. Cruttenden.

      [12] In A.D. 1825, the Government of Bombay received intelligence that a brig from the Mauritius had been seized, plundered, and broken up near Berberah, and that part of her crew had been barbarously murdered by the Somali. The "Elphinstone" sloop of war (Capt. Greer commanding) was sent to blockade the coast; when her guns opened fire, the people fled with their wives and children, and the spot where a horseman was killed by a cannon ball is still shown on the plain near the town. Through the intervention of El Hajj Sharmarkay, the survivors were recovered; the Somal bound themselves to abstain from future attacks upon English vessels, and also to refund by annual instalments the full amount of plundered property. For the purpose of enforcing the latter stipulation it was resolved that a vessel of war should remain upon the coast until the whole was liquidated. When attempts at evasion occurred, the traffic was stopped by sending all craft outside the guard-ship, and forbidding intercourse with the shore. The "Coote" (Capt. Pepper commanding), the "Palinurus" and the "Tigris," in turn with the "Elphinstone," maintained the blockade through the trading seasons till 1833. About 6000_l._ were recovered, and the people were strongly impressed with the fact that we had both the will and the means to keep their plundering propensities within bounds.

      [13] The writer advised that these men should be hung upon the spot where the outrage was committed, that the bodies should be burned and the ashes cast into the sea, lest by any means the murderers might become martyrs. This precaution should invariably be adopted when Moslems assassinate Infidels.

      [14] The reason of the objection is not apparent. A savage people is imperfectly punished by a few deaths: the fine is the only true way to produce a lasting impression upon their heads and hearts. Moreover, it is the custom of India and the East generally, and is in reality the only safeguard of a traveller's property.

      [Illustration: Map to illustrate LIEUT. BURTON'S Route to HARAR from a Sketch by the late Lieut. W. Stroyan, Indian Navy.]

      [Illustration: BERBERAH]

      PREFACE

      CHAPTER I. Departure from Aden

      CHAP. II.

       Life in Zayla

      CHAP. III.

       Excursions near Zayla

      CHAP. IV.

       The Somal, their Origin and Peculiarities

      CHAP. V.

       From Zayla to the Hills

      CHAP. VI.

       From the Zayla Hills to the Marar Prairie

      CHAP. VII.

       From the Marar Prairie to Harar

      CHAP. VIII.

       Ten Days at Harar

      CHAP. IX.

       A Ride to Berberah

      CHAP. X.

       Berberah and its Environs

      POSTSCRIPT

      APPENDICES

      LIST OF PLATES.

       Table of Contents

      Harar, from the Coffe Stream

       Map of Berberah

       Route to Harar

       The Hammal

       Costume of Harar

       H. H. Ahmed Bin Abibakr, Amir of Harar

      [Illustration]

CHAPTER I.

       Table of Contents

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