Survivors: The Animals and Plants that Time has Left Behind. Richard Fortey

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СКАЧАТЬ of its most important crop. It is the textbook case for the effects of over-fishing. In the thirty years I have known the ‘rock’ (as the natives call it) I have watched with bewilderment as fishermen have laid up their boats, and an apparently endless resource has all but disappeared. The codfish has not become extinct, of course, but the decline of this otherwise unfussy fish does prove that nothing in nature can be assumed to be unassailably fecund. High-tech factory ships from outside the island indiscriminately scooping up huge quantities of fish are mostly to blame. The Newfoundlanders, ever resourceful, have now taken to oil. The name of the Come-by-Chance refinery is somehow appropriate to their persistence in the face of setbacks not of their making. The little fishing villages along the coast are known as ‘outports’, and ever since they have been required to eschew the cod, those young outport men who have not gone to Come-by-Chance have left to find work at Churchill Falls, the huge hydroelectric plant in northern Labrador, or even to become hands on the extraction of the Athabasca ‘tar sands’ on the other side of Canada. They are a breezy bunch, despite their peripatetic life, and have an unusual accent: Irish with added stretched vowels, and wheezy interpolations of interjections like ‘Jeez, my son’. The outports are all freshly painted these days, with wooden houses in cheery colours scattered up the hillsides. For the few who stay behind, there is nothing much to do except repaint the picket fences.

      The drive south along the Avalon Peninsula from the capital St John’s passes several sheltered coves tucked away inside a coastline of magnificent cliffs. The geology is laid bare all along the rim of this island: the only problem is reaching it. Inland, the opposite is true; an endless forest of short conifers interspersed with scattered birch and aspen trees is interrupted only by shallow lakes called ‘ponds’ hereabouts, which are a legacy of the last ice age; the bedrock is hard to see among the scrub. As we approach the end of the Peninsula the trees get shorter and shorter, planed off by the fierce winds. Finally they crouch against the ground, as if terrified to poke up a twig. Usually the whole of this exposed area is swathed in fog, so the landscape supplies a passable setting for a vampire movie starring Vincent Price. But the day we visit it the weather is clear and sunny, with a few fluffy white clouds in a faultlessly blue sky. My companions are astonished, it was the best day they had seen in the last decade. The warden of the Reserve came from Wales, and remarked ruefully that he had chosen to work in the only place in the world with worse weather than Ffestiniog. One of the Newfoundlanders mumbles to me under his breath that the warden will be betrothed before Christmas. ‘Not a lot of single men around here’, he says, with a wink.

      At Mistaken Point, a path leads for a mile across a bleak coastal heath, which is less forbidding examined closely. Berry-bearing plants hidden in the close sward bear blue-black or scarlet fruits, and bright yellow tormentil flowers smile at us along the way. Patches of Sphagnum bog support pitcher plants whose leaves trap flies and mosquitoes to compensate for the poor nutrition offered by the damp wilderness. Even wild roses are tucked into natural hollows. As we approach the sea, grasses take over to make a natural lawn. Fulmars wheel in and out, just to have a look. The path leads onto the cliffs, which are quite comfortable to clamber over in this part of the Avalon Peninsula. The sedimentary rocks of which they are composed form a series of ledges that dip at a gentle angle into the sea, forming steps that we can climb up or down to explore different strata. The rocks are dark in colour, and the more resistant beds have made natural groynes that project out into the ocean. Waves break continuously over the ledges, throwing up foam – and this on a calm day. When winter storms are raging, salt spray must blast all the exposed surfaces. It is not hard to imagine how Mistaken Point got its name. The bones of fifty ships lie offshore, waiting to be fossilised.

      Each of the flat surfaces exposed on the ledges is an ancient sea floor. In 1967, a graduate student geologist called S. B. Misra at Memorial University of Newfoundland discovered the most extraordinary organic remains preserved on these stretches of petrified sediment surfaces. Only a year later an account of the finds had been published in the most prestigious scientific journal Nature, jointly with Mike Anderson, also of Memorial University. The rocks were recognised as being late Precambrian in age (this was long before the Ediacaran had been named). There was palpable excitement in the scientific community at finding such large fossils in rocks of this great antiquity, although it was not known at the time just how old they were. Misra subsequently described the original conditions under which the sediments had been deposited. There were some special features about this discovery. First, the fossils could not be safely collected. They were impressions on the exposed surfaces of a very hard but brittle rock, shot through with cracks, and often located in the middle of a great uncompromising slab. The best way to study the remains was to pour a latex solution onto the surface of the rock, allow it to dry – even that might be a challenge with the Atlantic hard by and fog always lurking in damp banks – and then take the hardened cast off to somewhere nice and warm. For scientific description it is usual to have an actual specimen on which to found a scientific name, and this should be kept in perpetuity in a public museum. This was obviously going to pose a problem, unless a public museum was constructed over the cliffs. Second, with such unusual material it is rather hard to know where to begin, since most of the usual biological pointers are absent. How does one describe an enigma, except as ‘enigmatic’? Perhaps it was a combination of these factors that stalled a full account of these remarkable fossils. Anderson took over the material when Misra went back to India, and when I met him in the late 1970s he seemed to be crippled into inaction by these admittedly difficult problems. At the same time, he put his marker down upon the fossils so that nobody else could study them. The result was that most of the Mistaken Point fossils did not receive proper descriptions and the respectability of scientific names for several decades. Guy Narbonne and his colleagues from Queen’s University, Ontario, are making good this omission even now. It is a strange fact about science that until an object or a phenomenon receives a name in some way it does not exist. Names really matter. They retrieve something from an endless chaos of anonymity into a world of lists, inventories, and classification. The next stage is to understand their meaning.

      A notice at the top of the cliffs points the way (a quarter of it had blown away in the last gale) accompanied by a pinned-up sheet of paper instructing visitors to ‘remove footwear before visiting fossil bearing surfaces’. I confess that the idea of taking off one’s boots in a howling squall to safeguard fossils that had survived since the Precambrian had its funny side. In the event we are provided with a pair of rather fetching blue over-socks. Visits to the famous fossils are now strictly supervised, as the site is now part of the Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve, and quite right too. Canadians are strict about protecting their national natural heritage. There is an architect-designed Visitor Centre to explain all to those who have made the trip. I climb down onto the best surface, in my special socks, and it takes a while to identify what to look for, but once they are pointed out the fossils are obvious. Any doubt that they were of organic origin was immediately banished from my mind. The fossils are strewn over the black surface of the gently dipping former sea floor almost as if laid out for the convenience of future inspections: one here, one there. The most conspicuous look like leaves or fronds, and are about the same size as a domestic Aspidistra leaf or some other showy tropical pot plant. They are pleated within, and the closer one looks the more subdivisions inside the ‘leaf’ one begins to see. Such spindle-shaped fossils are the commonest type. There are more than a thousand of them on display under the Newfoundland sky. They were named Fractofusus misrai in 2007, four decades on from their original discovery, thereby commemorating the discoverer in perpetuity in the species name. The name Fractofusus is quite descriptive – the ‘fusus’ part refers to the fusiform (spindle-like) shape of the whole organism, and the ‘Fracto’ part to the fact that it appears to have a fractal structure. Fractals, those intriguing mathematical entities recognised by Dr Benoit Mandelbrot in 1980, are shapes that seem to repeat themselves precisely when the scale is focused down to a smaller level. So, the largest primary divisions within Fractofusus are subdivided into identical-looking smaller frondlets, and those in turn into identical-looking ‘sub-frondlets’, and so on. It seems that these Precambrian organisms favoured this kind of structure; indeed, Martin Brasier of Oxford University has shown rather ingeniously that several of the organisms at Mistaken Point can be understood as a kind of three-dimensional origami played out by folding such fractal objects in different СКАЧАТЬ