Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

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      BOOKS OF REFERENCE

      (See also GENERAL BIBLIOGRAPHY, p. 433)

      Boaz, Franz, Anthropology (New York, W. W. Norton and Co., 1928)

      Buschan, G., Illustrierte Volkerkunde (Stuttgart, Strecker and Schröder, 1922-28)

      Cordry, Donald Bush, Costumes and Textiles of the Aztec Indians of the Cuetzalan Region (Los Angeles, Southwest Museum, 1940)

      ————, Costumes and Weaving of the Zoque Indians of the Chiapas, Mexico (Los Angeles, Southwest Museum, 1941)

      Hiler, Hilaire, From Nudity to Raiment (London, W. G. Foyle, Ltd., 1929)

      Kamps, Norman, and Adrian, Rupert, Aztec Costumes and Customs (Norman Kamp, 1949)

      Lewis, A. B., New Guinea Masks (Chicago, Field Museum of Natural History, 1922)

      Meyrick, Samuel Rush, The Costume of the Original Inhabitants of the British Islands (London, J. Dowding, 1815)

      O’Neale, L. M., and Kroeber, A. L., Textile Periods in Ancient Peru (Berkeley, University of California Press, 1930-48)

      Suarez, Galvez, Guatemala Indians (Guatemala, C. A., B. Zadick and Co., n.d.)

      Vanoverbergh, Morice, Dress and Adornment in the Mountain Province of Luzon, Philippine Islands (Washington, D. C., Catholic Anthropological Conference, 1929)

      GLOSSARY

      Amulet—charm worn as a protection against disease or evil, and to bring favorable results.

      Baldrick—strap of hide or fur worn over shoulder; usually supported a bag in which articles were carried. Pl. 1, 4.

      Bat—represents the ancient ruling house of the Cakchiquel.

      Bear’s-tooth Necklace—necklace made of bear teeth. Pl. I, 6.

      Bee, Wasp and Tiger—symbols which represent the legendary origin of the Maya.

      Body-painting—method of painting the body with various ochres.

      Bow—shown with 2 triangles touching a straight line resembling a bow.

      Broomstick Skirt—after washing, skirt is pulled into pleats on a stick and then dried.

      Capizaje—long or short piece of blue, black, or brown fabric having an opening for the head, usually with fringed ends; worn in Guatemala.

      Cockscomb Spike—crestlike shape in which hair was twisted.

      Cowrie Shell—beautifully colored shell of the genus Cypraea.

      Cross—symbol of the 4 corners of the earth.

      Double-headed Eagle—two meanings are given to this design by the Mayan Indian: the 2 heads representing faces, 1 looking toward good and the other toward evil; 1 head looks upward to heaven and the other downward to earth. Another form of the double-headed eagle signified the reigning house of Charles V of Spain.

      Earring—small or large metal ring worn in lobe of ear, Pl. 1, 1.

      Faja—narrow or wide sash worn by Guatemalan Indian.

      Fields—represented by parallel lines.

      Figure of Girl—some have thought this figure represented a Mayan princess, others have said it represented a Spanish princess.

      Fur Skirt—short or long skirt of fur; sometimes resembling a loin cloth. Pl. 1, 5.

      Hills and Trees—zigzag lines topped with vertical lines.

      Huarache—sandal woven of leather strips worn by Mexican Indian.

      Huipil—blouse worn by Aztec or Mayan woman in Mexico and Guatemala, often of exquisite handwoven fabric.

      Lightning—represented by sharp, zigzag lines.

      Loin Cloth—cloth worn around the loins.

      Mask—covering for face or head, often shaped to represent an animal or a human head; made of papier maché or carved of wood.

      Moccasin—soft leather shoe.

      Monkey—first known as a messenger between men and the gods.

      Moon—represented by a small disk surrounded by a black silk circular area, the symbol of darkness.

      Mutilation—method of mutilating or changing the shape of a part of the body.

      Nose Plug—piece of wood, metal, or quill drawn through the nose.

      Peacock or Turkey—symbol of Tlaloc, god of fertility.

      Perraje—shawl worn in Guatemala.

      Plumed Serpent—represented by an s lying on its side.

      Poncho—rectangular piece of material or blanket with central or near central opening for the head and worn as a protection from the elements.

      Rain—represented by fringe; purple fringe worn by royalty.

      Rebozo—shawl worn by Mexican woman.

      Refajo—wrapped or pleated skirt worn by Guatemalan Indian woman.

      Sandal—type of footwear with a sole and 1 strap over the instep and another between the 1st and the 2nd toes.

      Scalp—represented by 2 equilateral triangles with the sharp angles touching each other.

      Scar-tattooing—method of scarification in which a series of cuts are arranged in a design and filled with clay or similar material to give them the desired prominence when healed.

      Scroll—symbol of the unspoken word.

      Sling Shot—2 equilateral triangles, short sides connected by their narrow bases.

      Snake—sometimes represented by zigzag lines, or by a figure similar to a dart.

      Star—shown by dots and circles which are symbols of the spirits of Mayan ancestors.

      Sun—circle with long-pointed rays, symbol of virility and the divinity.

      Tattooing—the practice of making colored designs, usually dark blue or red, on various parts of the body. Pl. 1, 3.

      Tiger—refer to Bee.

      Turkey—refer to Peacock.

      Tzut—square piece of fabric, folded diagonally and worn as headdress, often beautifully embroidered in meaningful symbols, worn in Guatemala.

      Wasp—refer to Bee.

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