Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

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СКАЧАТЬ becoming popular in Dynasty XIX; slave with scanty clothing.Under: loin cloth.Cloaks and overgarments: large, loose mantle, fashionable about 1350-1090 B.C.; later, a kind of fringed shawl.Additional garments: highly decorated garment worn by the pharaoh; official robe elaborately draped.Hair: artificial wig; long wavy hair; sometimes longer wig ending in corkscrew curls; after 1150 B.C. wig sometimes dyed blue or red; wig with hair parted in middle and rippled to shoulder; one type showing the ears and with neat rolls hanging down below collarbone, resembling the claft.Headdress: simple fillet sometimes worn by man not of royal blood; uraeus used on front of headdress.Footwear: shoe and boot worn. Refer to D. 4.Accessories: sash worn in various ways in this period; golden clasp at girdle on festive occasions. Refer to D. 5.Jewelry: refer to B. 6.Typical Colors: refer to D. 7.Typical Materials: linen in a variety of weaves, fineness of texture of great importance. Refer to D. 8.Make-up: refer to B. 9.

      7 WOMEN (New Kingdom, Dynasties XVIII-XXX)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: tunic, tight or full, with or without sleeve or shoulder strap, belted higher than man’s, length to calf of leg, to ankle, or to ground; at beginning of Dynasty XVIII, left shoulder only, covered by dress; bell-shaped tunic; kalasiris; transparent outer skirt, often with drapery, pleating resembling accordion pleating.Under: thick undergarment in Dynasty XX.Cloaks and overgarments: long mantle, shawl with embroidered hem, clasped at the breast.Hair: stiff conventional form, parted in middle, falling in curls; in Dynasty XVIII; many styles after Dynasty XVIII; hair or wig in heavy mass to waist in Dynasty XX; dyed in fantastic colors such as blue and red after 1150 B.C.; black wig, ornamented with gold plaques or spirals.Headdress: refer to E. 3.Footwear: refer to E. 4.Accessories: refer to E. 5.Jewelry: ends of bracelets in design of lion’s head, after Dynasty XX. Refer to E. 6.Typical Colors: refer to E. 7.Typical Materials: refer to E. 8.Make-up: refer to E. 9.

      SIGNIFICANT MOTIFS

      The zig-zag form, sacred beetle or scarab, royal asp, royal snake or uraeus, ostrich feathers, hawk and vulture, the cross or key of life, fret, lily or lotus, winged globe, papyrus or reed, scroll.

      INFLUENCES ON LATER COSTUMES

      High-waisted garment and long narrow skirt of French Directory, 1795-99; lotus and scarab in designs after opening of Tutankahem’s tomb, 1922; extreme make-up, late 1920’s; accordion pleating, 12th century, 1920, ’21, ’37, ’39, ’40, ’47-’52; handbag, 1929, using shape of rush skirt as a suggestion; cape in various periods from Egyptian cape of 3000 B.C.; drapery in 1936, ’37, ’48, ’51, and ’52, showing influence of Egyptian period; walking stick carried in Middle Ages, about 1800, and in later times; right sleeve only, sometimes used in evening dress, 1949 (left sleeve only used in Egyptian costume).

      BOOKS OF REFERENCE

      (See also GENERAL BIBLIOGRAPHY, p. 433)

      Breasted, James H., Egyptian Servant Statues (Washington, D. C., The Bollingen Press, 1948)

      ————, A History of Egypt (Chicago, Univ. of Chicago Press, 1906-7)

      Budge, Sir E. A. Wallis, The Book of the Dead (London, Routledge and Kegan Paul, Ltd., 1949)

      Glanville, S. R. K., Daily Life in Ancient Egypt (London, George Routledge and Sons, 1930)

      Hope, Thomas, Costume of the Ancients (London, Henry G. Bohm, 1841)

      Houston, Mary G., and Hornblower, Florence S., Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian, and Persian Costumes and Decorations (New York, The Macmillan Co., 1920)

      Maspero, G., Art in Egypt (New York, Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1930)

      Müller, W. Max, Egyptian Mythology (Boston, Marshall Jones Co., 1923)

      Petri, Flinders, Arts and Crafts of Ancient Egypt (London, Methuen and Co., 1926)

      Ross, E. D., Arts of Egypt Through the Ages, Chap. II (London, The Studio Ltd., 1931)

      Thackeray, Lance, The People of Egypt (London, A. and C. Black, Ltd., 1910)

      GLOSSARY

      Accordion Pleating—small, tight pleats at right angles to the plane of the fabric resembling the folds of an accordion.

      Amulet—small object to which magical powers were attributed. Refer to Chap. 1.

      Apron—ornament of elaborate tabs of leather, metal, or enamel, hanging from king’s girdle. Pl. II, 4.

      Arm Band—wide metal bands worn on upper and lower arm. Pl. IV, 4.

      Asp, Royal Snake or Uraeus—symbol of royalty and of blessing given by the king, used on headdress of rulers. Pl. III, 4.

      Badge—emblem worn by a prince on side of head, extending as far as the shoulder. Pl. III, 12.

      Cape—sleeveless garment worn over shoulder. Pl. III, 10.

      Circlet—narrow metal band worn around the head.

      Claft—headcovering of heavy material falling backward loosely over the shoulder, known as the headdress of the sphinx. The greatest pharaohs were represented with this head covering. Claft trimmed with lotus flowers, or decorated with gold worn by woman. Pl. III, 2.

      Collar—round, flat neckwear made of beads, shells, faïence, semiprecious stones, and gold; sometimes made of papyrus or fabric, with geometric and lotus designs embroidered in bright colored wool. Pl. II, 9.

      Cone—ornament containing perfume worn on top of the head. Pl. III, 11.

      Cross or Key of Life—emblem of eternity. Pl. II, 5.

      Faïence—fine, richly colored, glazed earthenware.

      Feather or Plumed Headdress—symbol of Isis and royalty. Pl. III, 7.

      Fillet—band worn around the hair or wig by both man and woman. Pl. III, 9.

      Fret—ornamental pattern representing wanderings of the soul.

      Hawk—symbol of royalty.

      Helmet—close-fitting cap, low on the sides, usually extending over the ears and decorated with royal symbol.

      Henna—shrub or tree whose leaves give a red-orange dye used as a cosmetic.

      Hieroglyph—character in the writing of the ancient Egyptians. Pl. II, 8.

      Horus lock—braid of false hair worn behind right ear by fashionable woman. Pl. III, 8.

      Kalasiris—long-sleeved or sleeveless robe. Pl. II, 2.

      Kohl—preparation from galena or dark gray lead ore which was used to stain the eyelids and the eyebrows.

      Lappet—folded part which extended down each side of headdress.

      Lily or Lotus—flower, symbol of fertility and immortality; also symbol of the Kingdom of the South. Pl. II, 3.

      Loin Cloth—straight piece of cloth held in place by a girdle wrapped around the body from right to left, with the ends extending down the СКАЧАТЬ