A Long and Messy Business. Rowley Leigh

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      KIPPER PÂTÉ

      Although they look more attractive on the other side, I

      always present and tackle my kippers skin-side up as it is

      easier to peel away the skin and lift the fillets from the bone.

      Serves six or eight.

      2 large kippers

      200g (7oz) unsalted butter,

      softened

      juice of 2 lemons, strained

      3 tablespoons double cream

      a pinch of cayenne pepper,

      plus extra for sprinkling

      black pepper

      Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F, Gas Mark 6).

      Place the kippers, skin-side up, in a large ovenproof

      dish and place 50g (13⁄4oz) of the butter on top. Bake the

      kippers in the oven for 15 minutes, then remove and allow

      to cool slightly, pouring the rendered butter into a large

      heatproof bowl.

      Once the kippers are cool, very gently peel back the

      skin and discard it. Edge the fillets apart from the ‘frame’

      – the back fillet can be lifted away easily and should have

      no bone. The belly fillet should be turned over and the pin

      bones gently removed with tweezers. Getting every single

      piece of bone out is time-consuming but it is important.

      Place all the filleted fish in the bowl, add the strained

      lemon juice, a twist of black pepper and 100g (31⁄2oz) more

      of the butter.

      Melt the remaining butter in a small pan or the

      microwave, and set it aside.

      Blend the fish, lemon juice and butter mixture in a food

      processor until quite smooth. Add the cream and cayenne

      pepper and blend again until smooth. Check for seasoning

      – I never add salt in this instance – then decant the mixture

      into small ramekins. Smooth the surface with the back of a

      spoon or a small spatula, then sprinkle a little cayenne on

      top. Pour a little of the melted butter on top of each one

      to create a seal, then refrigerate. The pâtés will keep for a

      week in the fridge.

      Serve with hard-boiled eggs, watercress and toast.

      WINE: The buttery richness of the pâté suggests any

      white wine with sufficient acidity and heft. As a change

      from my beloved Riesling, perhaps a good Chenin from

      the Loire would be equally suitable.

      18

      Roman Virtues

      Puntarella Salad with Anchovies and Seville Orange

      I have been asked many questions about my involvement

      with Odeon Cinemas’ luxury ‘movies with meals’ project,

      the Lounge. One of the most intriguing is the notion that

      I might try and theme the meals in accordance with some

      of the films. This would present a challenge. Some films

      might be comparatively easy: The Artist could have

      something French, light and airy – quenelles, perhaps –

      and The Iron Lady would undoubtedly feature halibut as

      she seemed to be looking forward to it so much. I daresay

      I could come up with something for W.E. (cold fish?)

      although Shame and Warhorse might well prove more

      problematic. The one complete shoo-in would be a

      puntarella salad with Coriolanus.

      I discovered the strange – but beautiful – puntarella

      some twenty years ago. I tore off a stem to eat it raw,

      but promptly spat it out in a mouth-puckering state of

      disbelief. Untamed, it is about as bitter as chicory can be.

      It needs a bit of handling. The outside leaves should be

      blanched, then dressed with olive oil and lemon, and

      served with roast meat. The stalks are addressed as salad.

      These must be soaked in cold water for a couple of hours,

      which has the merit of making the shoots even crisper

      while also drawing out much of their bitterness.

      The СКАЧАТЬ