A Long and Messy Business. Rowley Leigh

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      PENNETTE WITH CEPS, CABBAGE AND PANCETTA

      Many types of short pasta could be used in this recipe, most

      obviously penne or even rigatoni. Similarly, a mixture of

      dried mushrooms would do as well as dried ceps (often

      labelled dried porcini).

      Serves six.

      40g (1½oz) dried ceps

      (porcini)

      80g (3oz) unsalted butter

      6 slices of pancetta, cut to the

      thickness of a pound or euro

      coin (2cm/3⁄4in long and

      5mm/1⁄4in thick)

      50–100ml (12/4–3½fl oz) dry

      white wine, if available

      500g (1lb 2oz) pennette

      1 head of Savoy cabbage,

      outer leaves removed, cut in

      half, stalk removed and

      thinly shredded

      salt and black pepper

      4 tablespoons grated

      Parmesan cheese, to serve

      Place the dried mushrooms in a heatproof bowl and cover

      with 250ml (9fl oz) tepid water. Allow to soak for an hour.

      Melt half the butter in a large, heavy, flameproof

      casserole dish, add the pancetta, and gently fry over a

      medium heat until it becomes crisp.

      Drain the mushrooms, retaining their pungent soaking

      liquor for later, and chop them coarsely. Add the

      mushrooms to the pancetta and stew them gently for

      a moment before adding the wine (or some of their

      soaking liquor) and stewing together for 5 minutes.

      Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil with 2

      teaspoons of salt. Drop the pasta into the water and boil

      for 5 minutes before adding the cabbage. Continue to

      cook for a further 10 minutes, then lift out the pasta and

      cabbage and add to the pancetta and mushrooms. Moisten

      with some more of the soaking liquor and stew together

      for a minute or two, adding the remaining butter and

      turning over until it is completely mixed and well

      lubricated. Check the seasoning – it will need more salt

      and as much freshly ground black pepper as you fancy.

      Take to the table and serve with the Parmesan.

      WINE: Some dishes are difficult to match with food but

      there are few wines that would not rub along with this

      savoury dish. However, a white wine would have to be

      fairly full-bodied and aromatic – from the Southern Rhône

      perhaps – and the red on the robust side. A muscular

      Chianti Classico would perhaps be ideal.

      29

      January

      Still on the Menu

      Ham Hock with Lentils

      I resolve to go to Paris more often. Every time I do go I

      wonder why I have left it so long. Even more than Rome,

      it is home from home.

      It was not always thus. My first visit, with no money and

      stuck in a huge, army-style Auberge de Jeunesse

      somewhere in the Southern suburbs, was not auspicious.

      It СКАЧАТЬ