Название: The Speyside Way
Автор: Alan Castle
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Книги о Путешествиях
isbn: 9781783624171
isbn:
It hardly needs stating that good quality waterproof, windproof and warm winter clothing, including hats and gloves, must be worn. The Tomintoul Spur reaches a height of nearly 2000ft (610m), and consequently the temperatures on these hills in winter is much lower than in the valley, and the amount of snow often significant. The possibility of severe winter weather, coupled with short daylight hours from the end of October until the beginning of March at these northerly latitudes, makes winter walking along these trails only suitable for the well equipped and well prepared.
Daffodils line the Spey by the old bridge at Nethy Bridge (Beryl Castle) (Speyside Way)
Flooding of the Spey and other rivers, particularly during the wet autumn months and in the springtime, when the winter snows melt from the surrounding mountains, is not uncommon and can make the trails extremely wet underfoot in some areas, if not actually impassable or dangerous (heavy rains and flooding at Fochabers in the autumn of 2009 caused a major diversion to the Speyside Way in the area). Violent storms with heavy rain and gale-force winds can occur at any time of the year, but are more common in the late autumn and winter months. The Moray Coast is particularly prone to very strong winds, often blustering.
The trail in springtime north of Glenfiddich Distillery (Dufftown Loop)
Walking the Speyside Way, Dava Way and MCT is best reserved for the spring, summer and early autumn months, when weather conditions are generally more suitable. Daylight hours are long at these high latitudes, 16–18 hours from May to July, so there is plenty of time for the longest or the slowest of walks. Summer has the advantage of generally warmer days, but as this is the period when the majority of people take their holidays, there will be more competition for the available bed space in the area.
Spring and autumn are therefore the best seasons. High pressure is perhaps more common during the spring in Scotland, and days during May and June often (but not always!) present ideal walking conditions – bright, sunny and not overly warm. The general freshness and rebirth of life is stimulating during springtime, birds can be heard singing everywhere and wild flower displays are a particular joy. The bright yellow flowers of the many broom bushes in the area are especially striking. Autumn is a charming time of the year in northern Scotland, with its mellow colours and general feeling of seasonal contentment. The abundance of deciduous trees in Speyside and Moray means that the displays of autumn tints are among the finest in the UK. The heather moorland is a blaze of purple, and the landscape is at its driest of the year after the warmth of the summer sun before the winter rains arrive. The romantic roar of stags can sometimes be heard during the annual rutting season in October. Accommodation tends to be less fully booked than in July and August, and days in early autumn are still of an adequate length for walking relatively long distances.
The wilderness mountain areas near the source of the Spey suffer from much more severe weather conditions than the valleys, even though the walks in these areas (see Prologue section) do not go much over 1000ft (300m) in altitude. Winter comes earlier in these regions and spring later, and their very inaccessibility and remoteness mean that the walker cannot easily vacate the area if weather conditions suddenly and rapidly deteriorate. The long nature of the walks, with little possibility of finding shelter apart from the occasional bothy, mean that a walk that could easily be completed in two days during the period between spring to early autumn would require at least an extra day in wintertime, with its very limited amount of daylight. Very long, dark and bitterly cold nights would have to be tolerated in tent or bothy, and more food, equipment and warm clothing carried. Hence these traverses during the wintertime are only for the very experienced and very well equipped.
Snow, torrential or persistent rain, very high winds and low temperatures can occur in this environment at any time of the year, so all who venture there must be prepared for the worst. Never attempt these sections in periods of very unsettled weather; always check the weather forecast before venturing out. If rain has been heavy in the preceding days then the necessary river crossings may be dangerous or impassable.
The late summer and early autumn months, from August to October, are not ideal for the Stage 1 or 1A walks of the Prologue, nor the Glen Banchor route in Stage 2. This is the period when deer stalking takes place in the Highland estates, and not only can it be dangerous to walk in areas where a stalk is taking place, but the presence of walkers can disrupt the sport, which is a vital part of the Highland economy. Be sure to first contact the relevant estate if considering walking these routes during this period (the ‘Hillphones’ service, see Appendix B, is the easiest way to make contact with the keepers and learn the whereabouts and dates of the stalking activities in the area).
A pest in these mountain areas is the notorious Highland midge, whose frenzied biting has to be experienced to be fully appreciated! Fortunately, they are less of a problem in the eastern Highlands than in western areas; and far fewer will be encountered in the valley and low-lying areas through which the three main trails pass than in the mountain country of the Prologue walks. It is a good idea to carry a midge repellent. The first frosts of autumn kill off this pest until the following spring. They are most active between early June and late September and on overcast, calm days.
Sueno's Stone (Beryl Castle) (Moray Coast Trail)
Which Direction to Walk
The trails in this guidebook start from the west and follow a generally north-eastern direction, but can, of course, be walked the opposite way. The Speyside Way has been described from Buckie to Aviemore in other guides, but strangely never before in the more natural and obvious direction, downriver from source to sea. This downstream direction is the better one, as it gives a definite goal or end-point of the walk, at the coast, and is the direction that most walkers travel when following long distance river trails. The other advantage of walking in a north-easterly direction, towards the sea, is that you should have the wind at your back, rather than directly blowing into your face. If nothing else, by walking downriver there is less ascent than walking up from the coast, even if this is quite small over such a distance!
In 1990 a major official spur of the Speyside Way was opened from the upland village of Tomintoul to Ballindalloch. Many may wish to start their Speyside Way journey at Tomintoul, and in the author's opinion the walk from Tomintoul to Ballindalloch is better than that from Aviemore. The main description in this book of the Spur is from south to north, heading towards the Moray coast. Some may wish to follow a ‘horseshoe walk’ north-easterly from Newtonmore/Aviemore to Ballindalloch and then southwards up to Tomintoul; so the Spur is also described in the opposite direction, from Ballindalloch to Tomintoul.
An option for those walking northwards from Aviemore is to leave the Speyside Way at Grantown-on-Spey and instead follow the other main trail towards the Moray Coast, the Dava Way, which is also described from south to north in this book. The Dava Way terminates at Forres where the MCT starts. This is described from west to east, Forres to Cullen, the reason again being that when walking in this direction the predominant westerly winds will be at the rear.
Suggested Longer Routes
The three official trails constitute a considerable network of long distance pathways in the north-central and north-eastern areas of Scotland and can be used to devise a variety of multi-stage walks of varying length, type and grade. The following are the main options to consider:
1 The standard route of the Speyside Way, starting from either Aviemore or from Newtonmore and СКАЧАТЬ