Название: Traditional Lead Climbing
Автор: Heidi Pesterfield
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Спорт, фитнес
isbn: 9780899975597
isbn:
• Rock Integrity
• Stoppers & Nuts
• Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)
• Hexcentrics & Tri-Cams
• Bolts
• Natural Protection
• Carabiner Use
• Multidirectional Placements
Anchors
• The Pre-Equalized Anchor System
• Anchors & Load Direction
• Fixed Anchors
• Other Anchoring Methods
Navigation Aids
• Guidebooks
• Topos
• Gathering Beta
Following & Cleaning
• At the Base
• Climbing
• At the Belay Anchor
• Cleaning
Rappel Overview
• Gear Dependence
• The Rope(s)
• Avoiding Fatal Mistakes
• Brake-Line Backup
• Safety Check
6—The Single-Pitch Trad Lead
Leading on Top-Rope
• Expert Feedback
• The Setup
At the Base
• Racking Up
• The Base Belay
• Safety Check
Communication
• Verbal Commands
• Backup Tactile Commands
• Two-Way Radios
Lead Protection & Rope Management
• Runner Usage
• Multidirectional Protection
• Piece Selection
• Placement Frequency
• Stances
• Double Placements
• Blind Placements
• Fixed Gear
• Protecting Traverses
• Rope Positioning & Clipping
• Directionals
Movement
• Testing Holds
• Rhythm & Flow
• Energy Conservation
• Down-Climbing
• Hanging
• Backing Off
Falling
• Hazards
• The Physics of Falling
• Fall Factor
• Impact Force
• Impact Impulse
Establishing a Belay Anchor
• Location
• Fixed Belay Anchors
7—The Multipitch Adventure
Preparation
• Route Choice
• Partner Choice
• Weather
• The Pack
• Food & Water
• Gear
• Cooperative Racking System
• The Approach
Moving Up
• Route Finding
• Trail Line Management
The Belay
• Anchors
• Organization
• Belaying the Second
• The Changeover
• Leading in Blocks
Objective Hazards
• Poor Weather
• Lightning
• Rockfall
• High-Altitude Illnesses
The Descent
• Multipitch Rappelling
• Class 3 & 4 Terrain
• Scree & Talus
• Snow & Ice
• Epics
• Retreat
The Unplanned Bivouac
8—Introduction to Self-Rescue
Prevention & Responsibility
First Aid
Equipment