The Danube Cycleway Volume 2. Mike Wells

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      Principal waymarks encountered: clockwise from top left, EV6 in Hungary (definitive in green, provisional in yellow), EV6 in Croatia, EV6 fingerposts in Serbia

      In Hungary EV6 is well signposted, although two kinds of EV6 waymarks are used. Those with a green background indicate the final route while those on a yellow background represent a planned route that is not yet finalised. They appear in about equal numbers, but the number of green (‘definitive’) signs is increasing. In practise this system leads to some confusion, particularly where new green signs have been installed for a definitive route but not all yellow ones removed. At one junction by the new Palace of the Arts (Stage 1) in Budapest, signs point in three directions. If you follow the route described in this guide, about half the time you will be following green waymarks and the other half you will be following yellow ones.

      The Croatians have taken an altogether different and not very helpful approach to waymarking. EV6 Ruta Dunav signs appear at regular intervals, but not where you most need them. Most signs are in the middle of long straight stretches of road, very few of them are at junctions.

      By contrast, in Serbia waymarking is almost perfect. EV6 Dunavska ruta finger posts appear at every junction and indicate three different kinds of route. Those with a red band show the definitive route, those with a green band an alternative asphalt route avoiding difficult or unsurfaced tracks and those with a purple band indicate side excursions to places of interest. Each sign carries a number and these numbers appear on the definitive maps published by Huber Kartographie (see below). Even in the busy streets of Belgrade city centre this system is flawless. Each of these finger posts carries a short aphorism in English, often a quote from a leading writer or philosopher.

      In Romania there is no waymarking. However as most of the cycleway follows one long country route, the Danube road, this is not much of a problem. Regular well maintained kilometre stones mark every road and can be useful confirming that you are on the right route.

      In the introduction to each stage an indication is given of the predominant waymarks followed.

      Maps

      By far the best mapping is provided by the definitive maps of EV6 published by Huber Kartographie. These are available as an eight strip map set at 1:100,000 (ISBN 978 3 943752 17 5). Information is in German, but the mapping is clear and easy to understand. These maps are available from leading bookshops including Stanford’s, London and The Map Shop, Upton upon Severn. Do not expect to find maps available en route.

      Various online maps are available to download, at a scale of your choice. Particularly useful is Open Street Map www.openstreetmap.org which has a cycle route option showing EV6 where a definitive route has been waymarked (although not in Romania).

Accommodation

      Hotels, inns, guest houses and bed & breakfast

      Unlike the upper and middle Danube, where accommodation is plentiful, for most of this route places to sleep are more limited with sometimes long distances between them. This becomes more acute the further east you progress. Until recently it was impossible to complete this route without using a tent to provide accommodation in remote areas. However, the number of places offering accommodation has increased as new premises have opened and it is now possible by using this guide to complete the journey without a tent. A list of accommodation is given in Appendix D. This covers rural parts of Hungary, Croatia and Vojvodina (northern Serbia). Accommodation options are not provided for towns and cities in these countries where there is a tourist office and a wide choice of accommodation. For eastern Serbia and all of Romania a full list of accommodation is given. The stage descriptions also identify all places known to have accommodation.

      Hotels vary from a few expensive five star properties to more numerous local establishments. Hotels and inns usually offer a full meal service; guest houses do sometimes. Signs showing in Hungarian szoba, Croatian sobe, Romanian cazare indicate that accommodation is available. In Hungary best value is often found in a panzió (pension) or vendégház (guest house). Prices for accommodation in all countries are significantly lower than in western Europe.