The Grand Traverse of the Massif Central. Alan Castle

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      Water source in Saint-Michel (Stage 14)

      Cyclists should carry water in frame-attached water-bottle carriers. There are water fountains in many of the villages and hamlets passed en route, and water bottles should always be filled when the opportunity arises. Daytime temperatures can be very high at times, particularly during July and August, and heat exhaustion and dehydration can develop rapidly during strenuous riding or walking. Always ensure that plenty of fluids are taken in, particularly in the southernmost sections of the trail, where shade cover is less and temperatures are generally higher.

      It is always wise to assume that water taken from streams and rivers is unsafe to drink, particularly if there are cattle, sheep or goats in the vicinity. If in any doubt, add a water-purifying tablet to unboiled water, allowing at least 10 minutes for the chemicals to react before drinking. Water labelled ‘non potable’ is not suitable for drinking.

Equipment

      Choice of Bike

      For riding the GTMC, a mountain bike is essential – a hybrid off-road/on-road bike will not be robust enough for the variety of terrain encountered on this journey. Obviously the better quality the bike, the better – aiming for a light but strong frame, with suspension if possible – but if you only have a cheap bike, don't be deterred from attempting the route, provided the bike is in good condition and well maintained. Cyclists keeping to a road route across the Massif Central are best served by a good-quality touring bicycle.

      It goes without saying that whichever you choose, it must be in a safe-to-ride condition, with an adequate braking system and a good range of working gears, particularly at the low end of the range. A good-quality cycling helmet should be worn at all times when mountain biking or road cycling (head injuries are all too common and often very serious in cycling accidents). Always replace an old helmet after a few years of use, and immediately after any accident.

      Spares to carry should include a tyre repair kit, including tyre levers, a set of spanners/Allen keys/screwdrivers that fit your machine (a compact multi-tool is a good idea), chain and spoke tool, two spare inner tubes, two spare sets of brake pads and a spare brake/gear cable. A good-quality cycle lock, a bicycle pump and lubricant are also essential. You will need to make a decision on whether to take bicycle lights. If you go in summer when the days are long, there is no real need to carry lights, unless you intend riding back to your accommodation after dark from a restaurant or bar. However, it is essential to maintain high visibility to other road/trail users at all times, and particularly on public roads. Always wear bright colours, and consider using high-visibility reflective tabs and clothing.

      Luggage

      The next major decision relates to the method of carrying your equipment. Road cyclists will automatically choose panniers, but the mountain biker traditionally carries all his or her gear in a small backpack. This is fine for day riding, but the size and weight of the smallest backpack necessary, even when carrying the minimum of equipment, for a two- or three-week trip, is likely to be too much for comfort and safe riding.

      It may be possible to carry part of your equipment in a small backpack, and the remainder securely strapped to a back pannier rack, so you don't need pannier bags. The problem with panniers on a mountain bike is the constant jolting of the bags over rough terrain, but most people would find it very difficult to carry enough gear without the use of back panniers. (Don't even think of front panniers – why so many cycle tourists find these necessary is beyond me. I have been on month-long camping cycle tours without the need for front panniers, carrying more than enough equipment on back panniers plus bar bag.)

      If using panniers on your mountain bike, then be sure to fit the strongest, best-quality back pannier rack that you can afford – and fit it very firmly and securely. Make sure that the attachment mechanism for your panniers onto the pannier rack is a secure and safe one, and that it is not likely to work loose with constant jolting. The author used back panniers while riding the GTMC with satisfactory results, but you must be tolerant of the constant jolting of your luggage.

      A good quality bar bag is an excellent idea for items to which you need constant access. Buy one with a map case attached, as reference to the route will be more frequent for the mountain biker than for the road cyclist. Remember that you will almost certainly have to carry your bike from time to time over difficult sections of the route, so it is important to not only keep the luggage weight down to a minimum (see below), but also ensure that it is balanced correctly on the bike. Finally, the author encountered a couple on the GTMC towing a specially designed luggage rack at the back of a mountain bike: even this coped with the rough terrain!

      Packing Light

      Whether mountain biking, road cycling or walking, the golden rule on a trip such as this, unless supported with a back-up vehicle, is to keep the panniers/pack weight down as low as possible, consistent with safety and comfort. This is particularly the case when mountain biking a long-distance route, where your luggage will have to cope with constant jolting over rough terrain.