The Grand Traverse of the Massif Central. Alan Castle

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      Hotel de Paris in Murol (Stage 2)

      During the main summer season, and particularly between 14 July and 15 August (from Bastille Day to the Feast of the Assumption), many hotels and gîtes d'étape tend to be heavily booked, especially in the main tourist areas, so those intending to ride or walk the GTMC during July and August, or over French public holidays, are strongly advised to make reservations. At other times of year booking accommodation in advance may not be necessary, although it is always advisable, if possible, to phone for a booking one or two days ahead, particularly if you wish to take dinner on the evening when you arrive. If speaking French over the telephone is a problem for you, then either ask the proprietor of your current hotel or gîte d'étape to phone ahead for you, or ask the staff of a tourist office to do so. Most people are usually very willing to help.

      Hotels in France are star graded according to a system very similar to that used in Britain. A basic hotel is a one-star establishment, and usually reasonably priced, clean and comfortable. Most of the hotels in the area covered by this guidebook carry a one- or two-star grading. One pays for the room in France, so there is seldom a reduction for only one occupant, although if cycling or walking alone it is always sensible to enquire.

      The French gîte d'étape has similarities with the UK youth hostel, but is operated either privately (most are family-run small businesses) or by the local community (gîte communal). Many gîtes d'étape are in sympathetically restored traditional buildings, typically accommodating between 10 and 30 people. All have hot showers. Dinner is usually provided in a gîte d'étape and this nearly always consists of excellent home cooking, often to a much higher standard than that found in tourist restaurants. Most gîtes d'étape also have a fully equipped kitchen for those wishing to prepare their own food. Accommodation is in a traditional dortoir, usually of four, six or eight beds, but increasingly these days, rooms for two are also available at a little extra cost.

      Checking gear before leaving the gîte (Stage 8) (Alan Sides)

      Demi-pensions are common and usually offer the best value for money. You will almost certainly meet other like-minded outdoor people here, usually walkers, mountain bikers or other cyclists, and these establishments are noted for their hospitality. Staying at a good gîte d'étape can be one of the highlights of walking or cycling in France. See Appendix C for a list of the gîtes d'étape along the GTMC Trail. There is no umbrella organisation to join, but details of most of them can be found at www.gites-refuges.com.

      Chambres d'hôtes are bed-and-breakfast establishments, similar to their British counterparts (although, of course, do not expect an English cooked breakfast). The cost always includes breakfast, but dinner is often not available, although it can usually be taken in a nearby restaurant. Chambres d'hôtes are becoming more and more popular in France, and to attract foreign guests will often be signposted as ‘Bed & Breakfast’, ‘B&B’, or ‘zimmer-frei’.

      Camping

      There are many campsites on or near the way – plentiful in some areas, but rather thin on the ground in others, particularly after Stage 13 until the coast is reached. For campers intending to ride or walk the GTMC late in the season, it is important to note that most campsites on the route close some time in September, often at the end of that month, but more than a few in the first or second week of September. If you intend to camp wild (camping sauvage) along the trail, be aware that you must seek permission from the landowner before doing so (it is illegal to do so otherwise). An uncontaminated water source will also have to be found, unless enough water is carried from a town or village. Leave no sign of an overnight camp, remove all your litter and take care not to pollute water sources. Particular care should be taken with matches and stoves, as forest fires are all too common during hot, dry summers, and do not light open fires. Note that wild camping is completely prohibited in the Cévennes National Park.

Food and Water

      The mobile butcher calls at Vacquerie-et-Saint-Martin-de-Castries (Stage 14)

      Shops, and in particular grocery shops (épicerie) and bakers (boulangerie), tend to open earlier than their equivalents in Britain (usually around 7.30–8.00am) СКАЧАТЬ