Tour of the Queyras. Alan Castle

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      Mountain peaks, including the pointed Tête de Toillies, from the Col de Saint-Véran (Stage 4)

      Shops tend to open earlier than their equivalents in the UK (usually around 7.30–8.00am) and stay open later (often up to 8.00pm), but most will close for two to three hours in the early afternoon. There are very few other possibilities for buying food along the way, although some farms may from time to time offer items such as cheese or honey for sale (but never rely on this). Also, provisions may sometimes be bought from the guardian of a gîte d’étape. It is possible to order packed lunches at many of the gîtes d’étape and refuges en route.

Water

      Water sources are found fairly frequently on this Tour, and lack of water should not prove a problem on most stages, although occasionally there are fairly long gaps where water is not obtainable: always plan ahead. There are water fountains in many villages and hamlets, and water bottles should always be filled when the opportunity arises. Temperatures during the daytime can be very high, particularly during July and August, and heat exhaustion and dehydration can develop rapidly when carrying a pack on steep mountainsides. Always make sure that you drink plenty of water.

      It is wise to assume that water taken from streams and rivers is potentially unsafe to drink, particularly if there are cattle, sheep or goats in the vicinity. If in any doubt, add a water-purifying tablet to any unboiled water, allowing at least 10 minutes for the chemicals to react before drinking the water. Water labelled l’eau non potable is not suitable for drinking.

Equipment

      The most important consideration, always, is to ensure that your pack is as light as possible, without compromising your safety in the mountains. Do not take unnecessary items; nothing spoils a walking holiday more than having to endure the excessive weight of an overloaded rucksack. Those who cannot resist taking a heavy rucksack are recommended to make use of the baggage transfer service (see Baggage Transfer Service, above, and Appendix 3).

      During the summer months this region of France usually experiences fairly high temperatures during the daytime, but, at the relatively high elevations found on this Tour, it can become decidedly chilly on cloudy days and once the sun has gone down. For much of the time, shorts and a t-shirt will be fine, but warm clothing must be carried to allow for a possible deterioration in the weather, and for the evening. A waterproof and windproof jacket is essential, and waterproof trousers are recommended. A pair of thin gloves and a warm hat weigh very little, and could save discomfort or worse if the weather turns cold at altitude. Pack a pair of lightweight walking trousers, which can be worn on the occasional cool day or to protect sensitive skin against sunburn, and wear them while relaxing in the evenings.

      The glare and heat from the sun can be intense, particularly during July and August and at altitude. A sunhat, high-factor suncream, lip-salve and sunglasses will all help to avoid over-exposure to the sun. To ensure that water is readily available during the day, at least one 1-litre bottle should be carried per person. The screwcap plastic bottles in which mineral water is sold make useful additional water carriers. Some walkers prefer a hydration system with a tube and mouthpiece that provides easy access to water.

      Well-worn-in, good-quality boots with adequate ankle support are essential on this walk. Some type of lightweight footwear is also desirable for rest days, for relaxing in the evening and for sightseeing – a pair of good-quality lightweight trainers is recommended. Boots may not be worn inside gîtes d’étape or refuges and are discouraged in most hotels.

      The rucksack, the size of which will depend on whether or not camping equipment is to be carried, is probably the most important item of gear. A ‘dustbin liner’ for the rucksack and a supply of plastic bags should keep the contents dry in heavy rain. Perishable food is best kept in a plastic bag to prevent the accidental soiling of the inside of the rucksack.