Tour of the Queyras. Alan Castle

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      The gîte d’étape (7 Degrés Est) at l’Echalp (Alternative to Stage 5 and Stage 6)

      Gîtes d’étape

      There are several thousand gîtes d’étape all over France, particularly along the GR trails. These usually privately owned establishments provide inexpensive accommodation for the outdoor enthusiast, especially the walker. It is not necessary to be a member of any organisation to stay the night, and generally no discounts are offered to members of any clubs.

      Many gîtes d’étape are sympathetically restored traditional buildings. The typical establishment will accommodate between 10 and 30 people, in a range of small dormitories and sometimes in rooms for two. There are washrooms, showers and toilets, and usually a kitchen where food can be prepared. The dining/sitting room is the social hub of the gîte. These days virtually all gîtes d’étape provide meals of restaurant quality, and local food and regional dishes are often a speciality. The gîte d’étape generally provides very good value for money.

      Most gîtes d’étape along the Tour du Queyras are only open for the main summer season, from June until September. A few are open all year and some open for the main winter skiing season.

      Refuges

      Walking and climbing in the European Alps is facilitated by a network of mountain huts (refuge in French, rifugio in Italian). The term ‘Alpine hut’ is hardly apt for these refuges, some of which are very elaborate buildings. Most of the mountain huts in the Alps are owned and operated by the Alpine Club of the country in which the hut is situated. In France this is the Club Alpin Français (CAF) and in Italy it is the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). A few of the refuges in the Queyras (for example Furfande and Agnel) are privately owned, and several are members of an umbrella organisation, the GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), to which some gîtes d’étape also belong.

      Whereas gîtes d’étape tend to be located in villages or small towns, mountain refuges are usually (but not always) situated in isolated areas of the mountains, well away from metalled roads. They are often built to serve a particular need, such as to provide a base for climbing a particular group of mountains, or to service the needs of hill walkers on long-distance trails. The locations of Alpine refuges are marked on IGN maps.

      Discounts are available in CAF and CAI refuges to members of the various European Alpine Clubs. Probably the easiest club for British walkers to join is the Austrian Alpine Club – UK Section; membership gives reciprocal rights in all CAF and CAI huts and includes mountain rescue insurance.

      Walkers relaxing in the Refuge de Furfande (Stage 11)

      Refuges are generally substantial buildings of stone and wood with unisex dormitories, a dining room/sitting room, toilets, washroom facilities, and most these days provide hot showers. Private rooms are increasingly becoming available. All the refuges on this Tour have a resident guardian during the summer months, and it is important that a bed space is booked, immediately on arrival, with the warden.

      When the main refuge is closed (commonly from mid-September onwards), there will usually be a small unstaffed annex or ‘winter room’ (refuge d’hiver) left open permanently to provide shelter and overnight accommodation. The facilities available here will be fairly basic, and your own food and cooking equipment will be required. Some refuges re-open with full facilities in the winter months during the main skiing season.

      General Information on gîtes and refuges

      Most of these establishments offer demi-pension rates – bed, breakfast and dinner – which tends to be better value than paying for these items separately. Packed lunches are often available, usually to be booked the night before departure. Both gîtes and refuges generally provide snack, meal and bar facilities throughout the day during the main summer season.

      Walkers entering Ristolas (Stage 7 – low level)

      Blankets or duvets are nearly always provided in gîtes d’étape and in refuges. Clean sheets/duvet covers will not necessarily available, however, so some walkers may prefer to carry their own sheet sleeping bags (silk ones are the lightest).

      Most gîtes d’étape and refuges have a hut or gîte book (livre d’or) in which it is customary to record comments about one’s stay. Entries range from a simple ‘we wos here’ to elaborate pen-and-ink drawings and poetry. Spare a few minutes to look back through these entries, which are often very entertaining. (Note how many British walkers have visited recently!)

      Hotels

      Hotel rooms are available at these locations:

       Near to Montdauphin-Guillestre railway station

       Montdauphin

       Guillestre

       Saint-Crépin

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