Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. Gillian Price

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      Rifugio Viel del Pan is popular with walkers (Walk 41)

      In a restaurant, Knödelsuppe or canederli in brodo means traditional farm-style dumplings the size of tennis balls (made of bread blended with eggs), flavoured with Speck and served in consommé. With any luck, the pasta course will include Schlutzkrapfen, home-made ravioli filled with spinach. For a main course in the southern valleys, Tosella – a fresh cheese (vaguely resembling mozzarella) lightly fried in butter or oven-baked with cream – is definitely worth tasting. Otherwise, go for Polenta con formaggio fuso, corn meal smothered with melted cheese, hopefully accompanied by funghi, wild mushrooms. Meat eaters can order spicy goulash or variations of Bauernschmaus, smoked pork and sausages on a bed of warm Sauerkraut, stewed cabbage.

      For those with a sweet tooth, the dessert front is dominated by Kaiserschmarm, a scrumptious concoction of sliced pancake with dried fruit and redcurrant jelly. Another special treat (and a meal in itself) is Strauben, fried squirts of sweetened batter with bilberry sauce. Ask at the bakeries for Apfelstrudel or Mohnstrudel, a luscious pastry roll stuffed with apple or poppy seeds respectively.

      Some memorable wines hail from the Dolomites. Among the reds are the full-bodied Teroldego and lighter Schiava from the Trentino, as well as excellent Lagrein and Blauburgunder (Pinot nero) from the slopes round Bolzano. The list of whites is headed by the heavenly, aromatic Gewürztraminer, which reputedly originated at Termeno (near Bolzano), while very drinkable Riesling and similar others are produced from grapes grown on the steep terraces over the Isarco valley.

      The non-alcoholic Holundersaft, elderberry blossom syrup, is refreshing on a hot summer’s day. Coffee is strictly Italian-style and comes as short black espresso, milky and frothy cappuccino or less concentrated caffe latte, as well as an infinite range of intermediate combinations. Tea is usually served black with lemon. A warming drink on a cold day is thick, rich cioccolata calda, Italian-style hot chocolate.

      A short note on drinking water: in towns and villages Italian tap water (acqua da rubinetto) is always safe for drinking and, by law, it is meticulously tested on a frequent basis. You can also request it in any restaurant and café instead of the bottled mineral water that is so widely consumed. Huge amounts of polluting fuel are burnt up every year transporting these bottles to and fro across Europe, but thankfully there is a growing movement of people aware of this incongruity who choose to drink tap water.

What to take

      Essentials start with good quality waterproof boots incorporating ankle support and non-slip soles (preferably not brand new, unless you plan to protect your feet with sticking plaster). Trainers are definitely inadequate for alpine paths. You also need a comfortable rucksack, big enough to contain food and drink for a day, along with rain gear and emergency items including a first aid kit. A sun hat, sunglasses and very high factor protective sun cream are essential – remember that for every 1000m of ascent, the intensity of the sun’s UV rays increases by 10%. A range of clothing is needed to cater for conditions ranging from fiery sun through to lashing rain and storms and, occasionally, snow. Lightweight telescopic trekking poles are a handy option to help you descend steep slopes and ease the weight of a rucksack off your knees and back.

      Signpost for Rifugio Tre Scarperi (Walk 6)

      Always carry a full day’s supply of water as your chances of finding any en route are low and livestock at pasture pollute the rare watercourses. At some huts the water may be labelled non potabile (undrinkable) if supplies come from snowmelt, making it unsuitable due to low salt content. If in doubt, check with the staff, as it may be a simple matter of health service bureaucracy and nothing harmful.

      Although food is available at huts on the majority of walks described in this guidebook, it is always best never to rely on them, but always to be self-sufficient and carry generous supplies of your own. Bad weather, minor accidents and all manner of unforeseen factors could hold you up on the track, and that extra biscuit or energy bar could become crucial.

      Mineral salt tablets are helpful in combating salt depletion and dehydration caused by profuse sweating; unexplained prolonged fatigue and symptoms similar to heat stroke indicate a problem.

      Passo di Costalunga (Walk 37)

Maps

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