Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. Gillian Price

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      Rifugio Fodara Vedla and the Croda Rossa

      A superb follow-up is a visit to the nearby Cascata di Fanes (signposted access near Sant’Uberto). With its 70m drop, it is held to be the highest in the Dolomites.

      Walk

      Rifugio Ra Stua (1668m) is a hut-cum-dairy farm set in an ample picturesque pasture basin between Croda Rossa ENE and Lavinores W. Dotted with photogenic timber huts, this was occupied by a vast spread of Austrian tents from 1915 to 1917, when it acted as a key sorting and storage point. The name Stua comes from ‘dam’, as the nearby stream used to be blocked to operate machinery for the old medieval quarry of red stone. Further up the slope, don’t miss the magnificent giant Arolla pines – they’re 300 years old!

      Take the main track (n.6) N along Vallon Scuro to Campo Croce (1758m, 20min), in marshland fed by meanders of Torrente Boite – according to hearsay, local shepherds diverted watercourses such as this to curb the impetuous flow and make more drinking water available for their animals. Turn L on n.9, a stony track and former wartime mule route. It winds its steady way W through Arolla pine and larch, levelling out at the 1950m mark to traverse lovely grassy basins dotted with bushes and dwarf mountain pines, perfect habitats for both shy chamois and marmots. Evidence of the natural phenomenon of karstification is plentiful, with grooved rock surfaces and sinkholes. You then pass puddle-sized Lago de Rudo (1990m), backed by the impressive inclined slabs of Lavinores. Not far along, you come to the delightful basin housing a batch of old timber huts and Rifugio Fodara Vedla (1966m, 1hr), with a lovely view E to Croda Rossa.

      Path n.7 starts off as a jeep track but 10min uphill a marked path branches N through the shrubs, climbing over a panoramic ridge where Croda del Becco and Croda Rossa come into view. The jeep track is rejoined for the rest of the way to Rifugio Sennes (2126m, 40min), set in rather bare surrounds (although apparently satisfactory for the herds of robust cows around).

      At this point, should the final section look too long and tiring, by all means take the short cut to Campo Croce.

      Exit to Campo Croce (45min)

      A matter of minutes E of Rifugio Sennes, you reach the fork for the straightforward jeep track (n.6A) that drops SE via Val Salata under the line of cliffs that sweep down from the Remeda Rossa plateau. The source of the River Boite, which waters Cortina and later joins the Piave, is on the final stretch to Campo Croce (1758m).