The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part IV - Centerfire Rifles. J B Wood

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       Ruger No. 1

       Ruger Model 77

       Ruger Model 96-44

       Ruger Model 99-44

       Russian AK-47

       Russian Mosin-Nagant Model 1891

       Russian SKS (Simonov)

       Sako Forester

       Savage Model 99

       Savage Model 110

       Savage Model 340

       SIGArms Model SHR970

       Springfield M6 Scout

       Swedish Mauser Model 1894

       Swiss Schmidt-Rubin Model 1911

       Thompson/Center TCR 87

       Thompson Model 1927A1

       Timber Wolf Carbine

       U.S. Model 1894 Krag-Jorgensen

       U.S. Model 1917 Enfield

       U.S. 30 M-1 Carbine

       U.S. M-1 Garand

       U.S. Model 1903 Springfield

       Weatherby Mark V

       Winchester Model 70

       Winchester Model 71

       Winchester Model 1873

       Winchester Model 1892

       Winchester Model 1894

      Introduction

      There are three good reasons for taking a rifle completely apart: for repair, refinishing, or for in-depth cleaning. The non-professional will usually avoid the first two reasons, but I have seen some gruesome exceptions. The last one, though, is a legitimate motive for the gun owner to decide on trying total takedown. Many gunsmiths are so busy with repair work that routine cleaning jobs may be postponed for some time. So, the do-it-yourself approach may be the only way to get it done without a lengthy wait.

      With some guns, though, those not familiar with the internal mechanism may find that they have some real problems. If they have the original manual or instruction sheet, this will help to a point, but these usually go only as far as field-stripping. The manuals for some of the older guns are often valuable collector items, and may not be commonly available. Some of the imported guns have direct-translation manuals that are good for a laugh, but otherwise practically useless. This book, like others in the series, was designed to fill this gap in firearms information. Parts I and II, recently revised, cover pistols and revolvers; Part III covers rimfire rifles; Part V shotguns, and Part VI law enforcement weapons.

      With the right instructions, a very knowledgeable amateur can usually manage total takedown and reassembly, but he must have some mechanical aptitude. There are some points that require the tools and skills of the gunsmith. This book is intended for both the amateur and the professional, and even the simpler operations are described and illustrated.

      Several of the tools required are not usually found on the local hardware store counter, so a section on tools is included, along with the sources.

      When taking any gun apart, there are a few general rules which should be followed. Although a tight assembly may require a light tap with a plastic mallet, never use extreme force. Wear safety glasses at all times to shield the eyes from spring-powered parts. Don't dismantle a gun over surfaces that may lose small parts, such as tall grass or shag rugs. Before you start, read the instructions all the way through at least once.

      Everyone knows, of course, that the first disassembly step is to be absolutely certain the rifle is unloaded, so I won't repeat this at the start of each set of instructions. I'll say it once right now: Before you start to take any gun apart, be sure that it is entirely unloaded. Don't rely on the mechanism—look inside. Some guns, especially tube or fixed magazine types, can “hide” a round in the magazine system.

      An important addition in the back of this book is a comprehensive index and cross-reference list, linking the rifles covered here to guns of similar or identical pattern. When these are included in the count, the instructions in this revised edition can be used for the takedown and reassembly of hundreds of rifles.

      Small mechanical variations are noted on the data page for each rifle, in cases which would cause no takedown or reassembly difficulty. If the variation involves a different procedure, it is so noted in the assembly/disassembly instruction.

      J.B. Wood

      Raintree House

      Corydon, Kentucky

      November 2003

      A Note on Reassembly:

      Most of the rifles covered in this book can be reassembled by simply reversing the order of disassembly, carefully replacing the parts in the same manner they were removed. In a few instances, special instructions are required, and these are listed with each gun under “Reassembly Tips.” In certain cases, reassembly photos are also provided.

      If there are no special instructions or photos with a particular gun, you may assume that it can just be reassembled in reverse order. During disassembly, note the relationship of all parts and springs, and lay them out on the workbench in the order they were removed. By following this procedure you should have no difficulty.

Tools

      Countless firearms, old and new, bear the marks, burrs, and gouges that are the result of using the wrong tools for taking them apart. In the interest of preventing this sort of thing, I am including here a group of tools that are the best types for the disassembly of rifles. Except for the few shop-made tools for special purposes, all of those shown here are available from one of these sources.

      Brownells Inc.200 S. Front St.Montezuma, Iowa 50171 B-Square CompanyP.O. Box 11281Fort Worth, Texas 76109

      General Instructions:

      Screwdrivers: Always be sure the blade of the screwdriver exactly fits the slot in the screw head, both in thickness and in width. If you don't have one that fits, grind or file the tip until it does. You may ruin a few screwdrivers, but better them than the screws on a fine rifle.

      Slave pins: There are several references in this book to slave pins, and some non-gunsmith readers may not be familiar with the term. A slave pin is simply a short length of rod stock (in some cases, a section of a nail will do) which is used to keep two parts, or a part and a spring, together during reassembly. The slave pin must be slightly smaller in diameter than the hole in the part, so it will push out easily as the original СКАЧАТЬ