Eat – The Little Book of Fast Food. Nigel Slater

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СКАЧАТЬ thighs, asparagus, noodles, mushrooms, garlic, chicken stock

      Brown 4 chicken thighs in a little oil in a deep pan. Slice 150g mushrooms, such as large field, portobello or porcini, and peel and slice 2 garlic cloves. Add the mushrooms and garlic to the pan and continue browning, adding more oil if necessary. Pour in a litre of chicken stock, bring to the boil and simmer for about 30 minutes. Lift out the thighs and take the meat off the bones, returning it to the simmering stock. Shave 4 asparagus spears into ribbons with a vegetable peeler, then add them to the soup with 200g noodles. Cook for a minute or two, then divide between deep bowls.

      For 2–3. Big, generous bowls of noodles. Rich chicken broth. The sweetness of asparagus.

       A few thoughts

      I often make a chicken broth with the bones from the Sunday roast. The trick is to remember to add all the jelly and bits of savoury goodness that lie under the roasted bird. A 20-minute simmer with a small, halved onion, a few black peppercorns, a tomato and a few parsley stalks will produce a golden-brown broth with deep flavour. The other thing worth considering is the ready-made stocks in the chiller cabinet at the supermarket or butcher’s shop. Expensive but often very good indeed.

      Chicken wing onion broth

      Slice 2 large spring onions and cut lengthways through the bulbs (chop the green shoot). Brown them in a little oil in a wide pan. Add 12 small shallots, peeled but left whole, brown them gently, then remove the spring onions and shallots from the pan. Add 6 seasoned chicken wings and brown on all sides. Add a litre of chicken stock, return the spring onions and shallots to the pan and simmer for 5–10 minutes. Add 100g green noodles and simmer for a few minutes. Season thoughtfully with salt and pepper. Makes 2 deep bowls.

      Grilled chicken miso broth

      Mix together a teaspoon of fish sauce, a teaspoon of mirin and a tablespoon of hoisin sauce. Brush this over 2 chicken breasts, then cook under an overhead grill till the chicken is cooked through to the centre. Steam or boil 6 stalks of thin-stemmed broccoli, then refresh under cold running water to keep them green. Heat 750ml good chicken stock in a saucepan, then whisk in a tablespoon of white miso paste and a small lump of ginger, peeled and shredded. Slice each chicken breast into 6 and place in 2 large, shallow bowls. Add a little chopped mint and coriander and the cooked broccoli, then ladle the hot miso chicken broth over the top.

      Carrot and Bulgur Porridge

      carrots, bulgur wheat, vegetable stock, mustard, coriander, butter

      Roughly chop 500g winter carrots and cook them in a litre of vegetable stock till tender. Blitz them, together with the stock, in a blender or food processor, then return to the pan over a moderate heat. Add 200g bulgur wheat and simmer, stirring, for 10–15 minutes, until the wheat is tender. Season with salt, pepper and a heaped tablespoon of grain mustard, then finish with a handful of coriander leaves and about 40g butter.

      For 4. Somewhere between soup and pilau. Soothing, frugal food for a rainy night.

      A sweet and cheering mash

      Carrot mash makes a sweet and light accompaniment to any lamb dish but especially lamb cutlets that have been grilled with rosemary, steaks fried with thyme and garlic, and any lamb stew where there are savoury juices to work into the carrot mash with your fork.

      Artichoke and Chicken Soup

      Jerusalem artichokes, chicken, onions, butter

      Lightly brown 6 bone-in chicken thighs in a little olive or groundnut oil and remove. Peel and roughly chop 700g Jerusalem artichokes and 2 onions. Put them both in the chicken pan with a little oil. Fry for 7–10 minutes till lightly golden, then return the chicken to the pan, add enough water to cover, and bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes.

      Remove the chicken, reserve 2 thighs for the risotto tomorrow, then slice the meat from the bones of the remaining thighs. Blitz the soup liquid in a food processor or blender. Check the seasoning, then add 25g butter, stir and pour into bowls. Add the chicken to the bowls.

      For 2. Soothing soup for today, risotto for tomorrow.

       Another idea from the soup

      Butter, short rice, some of the soup opposite, a handful of parsley

      Put the soup on to warm. Melt 35g butter in a pan. Add 200g arborio rice, then slowly stir in the hot soup, bit by bit, as if you were adding stock to a risotto, simmering and stirring for 20 minutes or so. Add extra vegetable stock if it appears to be getting too thick, but keep stirring regularly till the rice is al dente.

      Remove the flesh from the 2 reserved cooked thighs, and add to the risotto. Stir in 3 heaped tablespoons of freshly chopped parsley.

      Roast Chicken Pho

      chicken thighs, rice noodles, dark soy sauce, honey, fish sauce, mirin, ginger, lime juice, star anise, chicken stock, chilli, greens

      Mix a tablespoon of dark soy sauce with a tablespoon of honey, a tablespoon each of fish sauce and mirin and a chopped red chilli. Pour into a small roasting tin, add 4 chicken thighs and turn them over in the mixture till lightly coated. Roast in an oven set at 200ºC/Gas 6 for about 25–30 minutes, occasionally turning the thighs over in the honey and mirin. They should be very dark and sticky.

      In a saucepan, heat 800ml chicken stock with 6 ‘coins’ of fresh ginger, 2 tablespoons of lime juice and 3 star anise. As it approaches the boil, add a small handful of shredded greens or chard, leaving them to cook for a minute or two only.

      Put 100g wide rice noodles in a heatproof bowl and pour over a kettle of freshly boiled water. Leave them to soak for a couple of minutes until they are soft and silky.

      Drain the noodles and divide between 2 deep bowls, slice the chicken from its bones and add to the noodles together with the greens, then ladle over the stock.

      For 2. Healing broth. Sweet roasted chicken.

      Spiced Fish Soup

      mussels, pollock fillet, mustard seeds, СКАЧАТЬ