Eat – The Little Book of Fast Food. Nigel Slater

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      Quiet, old-fashioned flavours for leftover ham hock

      Make a crisp, light salad using chicory and inner lettuce leaves tossed with generous handfuls of roughly chopped mint, parsley and basil. Dress with a finely chopped shallot, lemon juice, salt and olive oil. Tear rough chunks of ham from the bone and toss with the dressed leaves. Serve with halved hard-boiled eggs, still quite soft in the middle.

      Prawns, Lemongrass and Coconut

      prawns, lemongrass, coconut milk, coriander, turmeric, garlic, bird’s eye chillies, galangal or ginger, pak choi, mirin, fish sauce, lime, mint

      Put 6 coriander stalks and roots, 2 teaspoons of ground turmeric, 2 large garlic cloves, 2 lemongrass stalks, 2 bird’s eye chillies, 2 tablespoons of groundnut oil and a thumb-sized knob of peeled galangal or ginger in a food processor and reduce to a rough, loose paste. (This will make twice as much as you need.)

      Put half the paste in a pan, fry for a couple of minutes, stirring regularly, then add a 400ml can of coconut milk, a head of pak choi, cut into large bite-sized pieces, and 8–10 shelled large, raw prawns. Bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes, till the prawns turn opaque. Finish with 2 teaspoons of mirin, a tablespoon of fish sauce and the juice of a lime, or to taste. Stir in the leaves from the coriander and top with a few mint leaves.

      For 2. Vivid flavours, a little heat. Uplifting and energising.

       A few thoughts

      You could add some cooked noodles if you feel like it, or small pea aubergines that have been halved and lightly fried, or some Thai basil leaves, or other fish instead of the prawns.

      Greens and beanshoots. The warmth of coconut and noodles

      Put the spice paste opposite into a deep pan, sizzle briefly, then stir in 250ml coconut milk and a litre of chicken stock and bring to the boil. Soak 200g rice noodles in boiling water, drain and divide between 4 bowls. Add a handful of Chinese broccoli or pak choi to the stock. Once it softens, add a handful of beansprouts and a sliced spring onion, then divide between the bowls, ladling it over the noodles. For 4.

      Prawns, crisp lettuce and miso. Light, fresh, satisfying

      Whisk together 3 tablespoons of white miso paste and 750ml vegetable stock and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down to a simmer and stir in 2 teaspoons each of soy sauce and hot chilli sauce. Shred a couple of crisp white lettuce leaves and their stems and put them in 2 deep soup bowls. Add a finely sliced spring onion and a large handful of cooked prawns to each bowl, then a handful of coriander leaves. Ladle the hot soup over the lettuce and prawns.

      Rib and Rhubarb Broth

      small pork ribs, rhubarb, chicken stock, star anise, peppercorns, bay leaves, spring onions

      In a large, deep pan, brown 500g small pork ribs on both sides in a little oil. When they are nicely coloured, pour a litre of chicken stock over them, add 2 star anise, 8 peppercorns and a couple of bay leaves and bring to the boil. Lower the heat so the liquor continues cooking at a low simmer and leave for a good 50 minutes to an hour, keeping an eye on the liquid so it doesn’t boil away; you want to end up with a rich, quite concentrated broth. Check the seasoning.

      Remove the ribs from the liquid, pull the meat from the bones and cut it into chunks (sometimes I leave them whole). Roughly chop 2 spring onions and drop them, together with the meat, into the hot broth. Pour into bowls. Thinly slice a small stick of rhubarb (you may not need all of it) into long matchsticks and add a few pieces to each bowl of broth. Serve immediately, just as the rhubarb starts to soften.

      For 4. Savoury depth, sharp fruit.

      Chicken, Asparagus and Noodle Broth

      chicken СКАЧАТЬ