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СКАЧАТЬ the early 1700s that the fine, sieved flour now thought of as English mustard became widely known. During the late 1960s, there was a general revival of interest in early recipes and methods for producing various foods. This, combined with a desire to make interesting condiments for meat, led to the invention in 1970 by the Wiltshire Tracklement Company of a whole-grain, chilli-spiced mustard called Urchfont (originally made in Urchfont, Wiltshire). It was the first whole-grain mustard to be marketed in England for many years. Its success led to an expansion of the company’s range and its emulation by other small and larger concerns.

      TECHNIQUE:

      Locally-grown mustard seeds are used. They are blended, ground and mixed and left to stand in drums for up to 14 days (depending on the weather, the colder it is, the longer the process takes). Ingredients: mustard, cider and wine vinegars, black peppercorns, allspice, chillies.

      REGION OF PRODUCTION:

      SOUTH WEST ENGLAND, WILTSHIRE.

      Tewkesbury Mustard

      DESCRIPTION:

      THE COLOUR IS DULL OCHRE, WITH COARSELY CRUSHED MUSTARD SEED AND HUSKS VISIBLE.

      FLAVOUR IS SHARP WITH A SWEET, DISTINCT HORSERADISH AFTERTASTE.

      HISTORY:

      Tewkesbury Mustard was famous in the 1500s, so famous that it was a byword for a particular kind of stupidity - ‘His wit’s as thick as Tewkesbury Mustard!’ exclaimed Sir John Falstaff in Henry IV. The mustard seed was ground in a mortar or crushed with a cannon ball, sifted, combined with an infusion of horseradish, well mixed for at least an hour, made into balls and dried. It was sold and kept until reconstituted with various substances - vinegar, verjuice, cider and red wine are all quoted. No trace of this early industry has remained in Tewkesbury; only the name recalls the association (Man and Weir, 1988).

      A habit of mixing horseradish and mustard persisted. References can be found in a recipe by John Nott (1726), and Eliza Acton (1845) gave instructions for making ‘Tartar Mustard’, a mixture of mustard powder, horseradish vinegar and chilli vinegar. These compounds were made at home, instead of being dried and marketed. Increased interest in the production of speciality foods by small independent producers led to the revival of Tewkesbury mustard in the late twentieth century.

      TECHNIQUE:

      The ingredients are mustard seed, horseradish root, wine vinegar and acetic acid. The spices are ground, mixed to a paste with the other ingredients and allowed to mature for several days before bottling.

      REGION OF PRODUCTION:

      WEST ENGLAND.

      ***

       Also produced in South West England

      CAERPHILLY CHEESE (P. 186)

      CHITTERLINGS (P. 68)

      CIDER BRANDY (P. 181)

      PERRY (P. 182)

      SPICED BEEF (P. 154)

       Also produced in South England

      BATH CHAPS (P. 16)

       Channel Islands

      Jersey Royal Potato

      DESCRIPTION:

      JERSEY ROYALS ARE SMALL, KIDNEY-SHAPED POTATOES (THEY ARE ALSO CALLED INTERNATIONAL KIDNEYS) WITH A THIN WHITE SKIN AND CREAMY WHITE FLESH; THEY ARE GRADED BY SIZE INTO ‘WARE’ OR ‘MIDS’. THEY ARE A WAXY POTATO WITH A DELICATE SWEET, EARTHY TASTE.

      HISTORY:

      These potatoes owe their origin to a single seed bought from a local shop by Jersey farmer Hugh de la Haye in 1880. The potato, which had 16 sprouts, was divided up and planted, yielding a good crop of early potatoes. The de la Hayes nurtured the variety until they had enough to trade with. A Jersey newspaper editor, Charles le Feuvre, was responsible for the name ‘Royal Jersey Fluke’; the potatoes are now known as Jersey Royals.

      A Protected Designation of Origin has been applied for. Marketing of Jersey Royals is intense and tends to exclude the word ‘potato’ from the name. The aim is to build up brand identity attached to the variety alone. Jersey is well suited to production of early potatoes because of its higher mean temperature. Other districts which have entered the early market are Cornwall and the South-West. Jersey Royals attain a premium price, although there is competition and undercutting from less flavourous tubers from Cyprus and Egypt.

      TECHNIQUE:

      The seed potatoes are dug and selected in late June. The first shoots are removed, then the roots stored until October. The seed potatoes are arranged by hand, upright in boxes. They are left for about 4 weeks, during which they send out another 3 shoots. Planting is done by hand, sprouting-side uppermost, working from the fields closest to the sea towards the centre of the island. The fields are covered with perforated polythene. Lifting is by mechanical diggers, about 12 weeks after planting; samples are dug daily to ascertain the correct moment. To qualify for the grade of ‘mids’, they must either be no longer than 45mm prior to a specified date or, after that date, be mechanically graded and be of a diameter not less than 19mm and not more than 32mm.

      The fields used for potatoes are mostly dressed with seaweed. Jersey Royals are also grown indoors, hand-graded and packed in oyster kegs holding 5.8kg.

      REGION OF PRODUCTION:

      CHANNEL ISLANDS, JERSEY.

       ‘Though the potato is an excellent root, deserving to he brought into general use, yet it seems not likely that the use of it should ever be normal in the country.’

      DAVID DAVIES, THE CASE OF THE LABOURERS IN HUSBANDRY

      Channel Island Milk and Channel Island Butter

      DESCRIPTION:

      CHANNEL ISLAND MILK IS RICHER IN FLAVOUR THAN THAT OF OTHER CATTLE; GUERNSEY IS SLIGHTLY YELLOWER IN COLOUR THAN JERSEY. AVERAGE BUTTERFAT CONTENT, 5.1 PER CENT.

      CHANNEL ISLAND BUTTER IS DERIVED FROM THE CHURNED CREAM OF THIS MILK. SOME FARM BUTTERS BEAR THE TRADITIONAL DECORATION OF RIDGES AND DIAMONDS PRODUCED BY USING ‘SCOTCH HANDS’ (SMALL RIDGED WOODEN BOARDS). THIS BUTTER IS ALSO SOMETIMES SOLD LOOSE. COLOUR VARIES WITH THE SEASON: A RICH CREAM IN WINTER, DEEP CREAM TO GOLD IN SUMMER.

      HISTORY:

      There are 3 breeds associated with Channel Island milk: Guernsey, Jersey, СКАЧАТЬ