Green Mangoes and Lemon Grass. Wendy Hutton

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      leaf-wrapped savory nibbles miangkham

      This delightful appetizer (the whole of which is definitely greater than the sum of its parts) is normally made using wild pepper leaves (cha plu in Thai, bo la lot in Vietnam). Don't worry if you have to substitute these with lettuce — the unexpectedly piquant flavors and contrasting textures of the filling still taste great. There's a fair amount of preparation, but this can be done in advance and at the last minute, all you need do is arrange the ingredients decoratively and serve.

      6 shallots, finely minced

      4 in (10 cm) young ginger, minced

      ½ cup (75 g) dry-roasted peanuts, skinned

      ½ cup (50 g) dried prawns, soaked in water to soften, minced

      3 tablespoons Crisp-fried Garlic (page 17)

      1 large lemon, skin washed and dried, skin and flesh finely diced, seeds discarded

      8-10 red or green bird's eye chilies, chopped, or 1-2 large red or green chilies, minced

      ½ cup (50 g) freshly grated or desiccated coconut, toasted in a dry wok until golden brown

      wild pepper leaves or butter lettuce leaves

      Sauce

      3 tablespoons dry-roasted peanuts

      1 tablespoons dried prawns, soaked in warm water to soften

      3 tablespoons freshly grated or desiccated coconut

      3 shallots, minced

      1 stem lemon grass, tender inner part of bottom 3 in (8 cm) only, thinly sliced

      1 teaspoon finely minced ginger

      1 teaspoon finely minced galangal

      2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste, toasted

      1¼ cups (300 ml) water

      ⅓ cup (60 g) finely minced palm sugar

      ½-1 teaspoon salt

      Prepare the Sauce first. Process the peanuts to a fine powder in a spice grinder, then transfer to a saucepan. Do the same for the prawns, and then again for the coconut. Add the shallots, lemon grass, ginger, galangal, and shrimp paste and process to a smooth paste, adding a little of the water if needed to keep mixture turning.

      Transfer the paste to the saucepan and add water, palm sugar, and salt. Bring to the boil, stirring. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered, stirring frequently, until the Sauce thickens and is reduced to about ¾ cup, around 15 minutes. Leave to cool, then transfer to four small serving bowls.

      Arrange separate piles of shallots, ginger, peanuts, dried prawns, garlic, lemon, chilies, and coconut on a large serving dish. (If you like, you can prepare these ingredients in advance and keep them in covered containers for about an hour, although it is best to cut the lemon just before serving.)

      Arrange the wild pepper or lettuce leaves on a plate and serve with the filling ingredients. Everyone adds a little of the ingredients, then spoons over some of the Sauce, before tucking up the leaf and eating (usually with sighs of pleasure).

      Serves: 6-8 Preparation time: 45 min Cooking time: 10 min

      straw mushroom soup with lemon grass & chili tom yum tied

      Straw mushrooms, which have a firm yet slippery texture, are grown on a large scale in Thailand and have a wonderful woodsy perfume. They're excellent in this hot sour soup, which uses freshly made vegetable stock, although you could substitute this with chicken stock (preferably home-made) if you prefer. If you can't get fresh straw mushrooms, try the canned variety or use fresh button mushrooms.

      1-2 tablespoons Roasted Thai Chili Paste (page 179)

      1 stem lemon grass, bottom 7 in (18 cm) only, bruised and cut in 4-5 pieces

      3 kaffir lime leaves, torn

      3 tablespoons lime or lemon juice

      4 teaspoons fish sauce

      1 teaspoon sugar

      3½ oz (100 g) fresh straw mushrooms, halved if large

      1 medium ripe tomato, quartered

      2-3 bird's-eye chilies, lightly bruised

      sprigs of coriander leaf to garnish

      Vegetable Stock

      5 cups (1.25 liters) water

      1 medium onion, minced

      1 large carrot, minced

      1 stalk celery, sliced

      1 whole coriander plant including roots, minced

      1 teaspoon black peppercorns

      Make the Vegetable Stock by combining the water, onion, carrot, celery, coriander, and peppercorns in a large saucepan. Bring to the boil, cover, lower heat, and simmer until the liquid has reduced to 3½ cups, about 30 minutes.

      Strain the vegetable stock in a medium saucepan, or if using chicken stock, put in 3½ cups (875 ml). Stir in the chili paste, lemon grass, and lime leaves. Bring to the boil, lower heat, and simmer uncovered 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, mushrooms, tomato, and chilies. Bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered until mushrooms are cooked, 3 to 4 minutes. If using canned mushrooms, simmer 3 minutes.

      Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with fresh coriander sprigs. Serve hot with steamed rice and other dishes.

      Serves: 4 Preparation time: 10 min Cooking time: 40 min

      creamy pumpkin soup gaeng Han fak thong

      This easy and delicious soup is a Thai recipe, but I've enjoyed similar soups in both Laos and Cambodia. I'm not sure of the reason, but this soup is recommended "for nursing mothers and children." However, I've found that everyone loves it. Do try to find Asian basil, which has a marvelous aniseed flavor lacking in sweet European basil.

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