Food of Jamaica. John DeMers

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      Schoolgirls during recess in Port Antonio. While these children may look relaxed, the education system in Jamaica is very competitive, with children having to take mandatory placement exams to win spots in schools, because there are not enough places for all the children.

      A full 95 percent of Jamaica’s people trace their heritage to Africa, yet most have some link or distant relative tying them to Great Britain, the Middle East, China, Portugal, Germany, South America or another island in the Caribbean. In general, these groups live together peacefully—partially because they’ve had to over the years to survive and partially because there has been so much intermarriage.

      By the mid 1900s, a “national identity” had supplanted a British one in the hearts and minds of Jamaicans. This new identity was given official recognition on August 6, 1962, when Jamaica became an independent nation with only loose ties to the Commonwealth. On that day, the Union Jack was lowered for the last time, and the new black, green and gold Jamaican flag was lifted up.

      “Out of Many, One Nation” is the motto of Jamaica, though it struggles today with the same problems that plague so many Caribbean islands. Its unity can be heard in the language of its people, which carries both words and word patterns from West African languages. And when Jamaicans speak, even in dark moments, it is with a unique lilt that makes every sentence a song.

      The Rastafarians

      Reggae’s hypnotic beat carries Rasta’s message of protest and purity

       By Norma Benghiat

      The tremendous mingling of cultures in Jamaica has also led to a mingling of religions. The vast majority of Jamaicans consider themselves Christian, yet there are significant communities of Jews, Hindus, Moslems and other religions. But Rastafarianism is the religion that was born in Jamaica, and it commands a serious following on the island— along with the respect of even those Jamaicans who choose not to follow it.

      Say the word “Rasta” and an image of marijuana-smoking reggae musicians comes to mind, for reggae is the most well known product of this religion, spread through the world as it has been by such famous reggae musicians as Bob Marley, who closely associated reggae with Rastafarianism.

      The Rastafarian religion or movement is one of the most significant phenomenons to emerge out of Jamaica’s plantation slave society. It was born out of the need to counteract the denigration of people of African descent in a society that gave little recognition to the majority of its citizens. The Rastafarians withdrew from “Babylon” or Western society and created their own music, speech, beliefs, cooking, lifestyle, and attire.

      The bright colors of these knit hats at a stand outside Ocho Rios incorporate the red and gold of the Ethiopian flag and reflect the tie that many Jamaicans feel to Africa.

      Rastas believe in the deity of the late Ethiopian king, Haile Selassie, who is the messiah, Rastafari. They believe in repatriation to Ethiopia and consider themselves to be one of the tribes of Israel. Rastafarians believe that certain Old Testament chapters speak about Haile Selassie and Ethiopia. “Jah,” or God, is seen as a black man. The Rastas see themselves as the true Hebrews, chosen by “Jah.” Right-living Rastas are considered to be saints, and the others are called “brethren.”

      The Rastafarian religion has a code against greed, dishonesty, and exploitation. Except for the sacramental smoking of ganja (marijuana, the possession, sale and use of which are illegal in Jamaica), true Rastas are law-abiding, have strong pride in black history, a positive self-image, and strive for self-sufficiency. The Rasta lifestyle reflects these beliefs.

      Some of the orthodox Rastas resemble biblical figures, bearded and garbed in long robes, carrying staffs and covering their dreadlocks in turbans. Rastas quote Leviticus 21.5: “They shall not make baldness upon their head, neither shall they shave off the corners of their beard, nor make any cuttings in their flesh” as the reason for wearing dreadlocks, which are formed by leaving hair to grow naturally without combing. The longer the dreadlocks, the longer the Rasta’s devotion to the holy ways of living. Many Rastas wear dreadlocks wrapped neatly in turbans, and this is the only outward sign of their religion. They incorporate the colors of the Ethiopian flag, red, green and gold, into all kinds of clothing.

      The Rastas’ diet, called I-tal (which means “natural” in the Rasta language), is essentially a strict vegetarian one. They believe that man should eat only that which grows from the soil. Food should not include the dead flesh of any living animal, and pork is strictly omitted. This diet also excludes manufactured food of any kind because it contains additives, which Rastas believe cause illnesses, such as cancer. In addition, the foods they eat are grown naturally, without the use of any artificial fertilizers.

      I-tal cooking uses the produce of the land—peas, beans and a variety of other vegetables, starches and fruits that are locally available. While some Rastas will eat fish, chicken and I-tal food, others will eat only I-tal food in its raw state. Ganja is often included in cooked foods, and infusions are taken for medicinal purposes. Rastas abstain from hard liquor, beer and wine. Instead they drink fruit juices that are mixed to create nonalcoholic I-tal drinks.

      Some Rastas do not use silverware or plates. Instead, they eat from coconut-shell bowls and calabash bowls with their fingers. This, they say, identifies them with their African roots. Some Rastas go so far as to refuse to drink processed water and instead collect rain water to use in the preparation of their food.

      “Groundlings,” or gatherings, are held at specific times to celebrate the birthday of Haile Selassie or the Ethiopian Christmas and New Year. At these gatherings the niyabinga drums and Rastafarian music create an intense spiritual mood.

      Ganja, which most likely came to Jamaica with the East Indians, plays an important role in the lives of the Rastas. Ganja is smoked in cone-shaped “spliffs” made from brown paper bags or newspaper, or in a bamboo chillum pipe that is passed around by members. The Rastas smoke the herb to inspire open conversation.

      The Rastas have developed their own dialect by replacing the “me” in the Jamaican Creole language with “I and I,” in order to insert a positive notion of self into their speech. For example, “me have mi table” is changed to “I and I have mi table.”

      Vibrant colors are the hallmark of Rastafarian art, and its influence can be seen in the works of traditional artists such as Parboosingh, as well as in ceramics, the theater and dance. The profound influence the Rastas have had on indigenous musical forms is well known, from ska to rock steady to the most significant phenomenon, reggae. The latter, with its hypnotic beat and protest lyrics, has created an artistic form that has taken on a life of its own and carried the spirit of Rastafarianism throughout the world.

      From the Field to the Table

      Exotic fruits and vegetables of every color and shape find their way into Jamaican cuisine

       By Norma Benghiat

      It might have been the climate and fertility that first brought the Amerindians to Jamaica, but it was the search for gold that brought the Europeans. When this search failed, they turned to the island’s other resources. There are crops that were brought to Jamaica from far away that have flourished here as in no other place.

      In the days of the great plantations, many slaves were allowed to grow their own vegetables in tiny СКАЧАТЬ