Cook's Guide to Asian Vegetables. Wendy Hutton

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      Ceylon Spinach is believed to have originated in India, where it is also known as bayam and Indian or Malabar spinach. It has been cultivated in China for centuries, and is also grown in Africa. When mature, this fast-growing, fleshy plant produces red berries which were once used by Chinese women as rouge for coloring their cheeks, and by mandarins for coloring sealing wax. Both the leaves and tender stems are edible.

      Appearance & Flavor The fleshy, deep green leaves grow on either green or bright red stems. The flavor is pleasant, although the texture after cooking is somewhat sticky (the Chinese name for it translates as "mucilaginous" or "slippery vegetable"). The very young tips of Ceylon spinach are sometimes available in Asian markets, and sold as saan choy. Choosing & Storing Look for fresh, firm leaves with no sign of wilting. Ceylon spinach keeps very well, even without refrigeration, if the stems are placed in water. Wrapped in paper or kitchen towels, it will keep at least 1 week if refrigerated. Preparing Pull off the tender top of the stems, then remove the leaves from the harder portion of the stem. Rinse and drain. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties This type of spinach is rich in vitamins and minerals and also has mild laxative properties. Culinary Uses Ceylon spinach is added to soups and lentil dishes or blanched and used in vegetable salads. Ceylon spinach is also very good prepared Cantonese style—blanched, then tossed with oyster sauce, a touch of sugar and white pepper, and served scattered with crisp fried garlic or shallot slices.

      Chinese or Napa Cabbage seems to have more alternative names than any other cabbage. Native to northern Asia, it is also known as long white cabbage, Tientsin or Tianjin cabbage, wong bok cabbage or wong nga bok in Cantonese. Koreans use this cabbage for the most common version of their famous pickle, kim chee (see page 149).

      Appearance & Flavor This cabbage has crinkled, very pale green leaves at the end of long, wide, white-ribbed stalks. It grows in two main forms—a long, slender cabbage and a shorter, somewhat barrel-shaped variety. There is no difference in the flavor. Chinese cabbage is pleasantly crisp when raw, and has a slightly sweet flavor which intensifies after long, slow cooking. Chinese cabbage has the mildest taste of all Asian cabbages. Choosing & Storing Choose fresh-looking cabbages. Chinese cabbage is a hardy vegetable which keeps well refrigerated and at room temperature in a tropical climate, wrapped in damp newspaper and stored in an airy place for several days. In China, many cooks believe the flavor actually improves after the cabbage has been hung for a few days. Preparing Do not pull off any wilted outer leaves until just before cooking. Wash and drain, then separate and dry the leaves. Both the stalks and leaves are eaten, either sliced finely across or cut into larger sections, depending on the use. Culinary Uses This cabbage exudes a lot of moisture when cooked. It is often blanched or eaten raw in salads, shredded and added to fillings for dumplings, added to soups, or slowly braised to bring out its sweetness. It can also be stir-fried with noodles, although is not usually stir-fried on its own over high heat like most other cabbages as slower, more lengthy cooking improves its flavor.

      Chinese Kale or Kailan is sometimes referred to as Chinese broccoli, although it is most commonly known in the West as kailan, a variation of its Cantonese name, gal Ian. Kailan is eaten for its delicious stems rather than its leaves, which are too tough to be palatable. The crisp texture, bright dark green color and high nutritional value of this vegetable make it a favorite among the Chinese, and it is almost invariably on restaurant menus, particularly restaurants specializing in dim sum.

      Appearance & Flavor Kailan is generally marketed when it is about 6-8 in (15-20 cm) in length, and is prized mainly for its crisp central stem as the leaves tend to be tough and bitter. It is recognizable by the thick central stem and dull, thick leaves with a bluish green tinge. The flavor is emphatic but appealing to most palates. Another form, usually referred to as "baby" kailan, is only 2-3 in (5-8 cm) long and is grown by crowding seedlings together and encouraging their rapid growth with liberal amounts of fertilizer. Looking rather like loosely folded brussels sprouts, these are tender and sweet, and are consequently very popular in much of Asia. Choosing & Storing When buying regular or mature kailan, look for plants with the thinnest stems, as these will be the most tender. Baby kailan should look fresh, with no wilted outer leaves. Kailan keeps for several days refrigerated in a perforated plastic bag. Preparing When using mature kailan, trim off and discard all but 1 in (2½ cm) of the leaves, and discard the hardest part of the stem. Peel the central stem with a sharp knife, then cut into 2-3-in (5-8-cm) lengths. If the stem is thick, slice thinly lengthwise. The tip of the root end of baby kailan should be cut off, and if any of the outer leaves are slightly wilted or yellowing, discard these also. Cook whole. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Kailan is high in iron, calcium and vitamin A. Culinary Uses Mature kailan stems are often blanched in boiling water until just tender, then served with a mixture of oyster sauce, a little sugar and fried garlic or crisp fried shallots. СКАЧАТЬ