The Story of Lingerie. Muriel Barbier
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Название: The Story of Lingerie

Автор: Muriel Barbier

Издательство: Parkstone International Publishing

Жанр: Дом и Семья: прочее

Серия: Temporis

isbn: 978-1-78310-745-2, 978-1-78042-970-0

isbn:

СКАЧАТЬ the end of the 20th century laboratories began to create more synthetic fibres, first to make sports underwear which held firm and aerated the body. Sports bras were made of polyamide, elastane or a mix of these fibres. This underwear was made from micro fibres composed of microfilaments and was very light, seamless and often with controlling properties such as Dim control tights.

      In addition to synthetic materials, underwear needed elastic materials made from latex or rubber, for example. Once again, this new material was introduced through sportswear. The first corset reinforced with rubber was presented in 1851 at the Universal Exhibition in London, but the first elastic corset (in latex) was only sold in 1911: it was a sports corset. The development of elastic fabrics made of latex posed a major problem, as latex coagulates. It has to be mixed with ammonia to maintain its liquid state. Threads are made out of it and it is then woven (Dunlop improved this process). Elastic progressively replaced boning, steel and lacing. In addition to this, circular knitting machines were being designed to develop girdles which were entirely made of rubber. Latex was knitted into a sort of fabric. It was used by all brands, some of them perfected its usage such as Kestos and Warner who introduced two-way elasticity.

      At the end of the 1950s, researchers developed a more versatile fibre: Lycra, which was patented in 1959 by Dupont de Nemours. It had all the properties of rubber without its disadvantages. It was up to four times more resistant, three time lighter, and resistant to abrasion, perspiration and damage from detergents and lotions. Lycra was first used for sportswear such as bathing costumes and bodies, and then was introduced for underwear. It was used in combination with other textiles, usually at a rate of 15 to 40%. It was elastic and followed the shape of the body, as described by Vogue in 1968: “Drive, jump, ride, stretch, accelerate into spring with briefer simpler foundations, that you can put on and forget…they look like you, move like you, feel like you.[24]“ Playtex opened in France as a result of its “Cross your heart” model (1969) and also due to the “18-hour girdle” (1971) which had such light elastic fibre that one did not feel one was wearing it.

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      Примечания

      1

      See chapter 2.1.

      2

      Georges Feydeau, Mais n’te promène donc pas toute nue!, (“You are surely not going out completely naked!”) a one-act comedy, scene II, 1911.

      3

      Armand Silvestre, Les Dessous à travers les âges, (“Underwear through the ages”) a work from 1914 which was one of thz first studies of women’s underwear of the beginning of the 20th century. This, and all these other works, were written by men.

      4

      Women’s abdominal muscles are notoriously weak and even intense exercise does not stop them slackening if they are not supported.

      5

Примечания

1

See chapter 2.1.

2

Georges Feydeau, Mais n’te promène donc pas toute nue!, (“You are surely not going out completely naked!”) a one-act comedy, scene II, 1911.

3

Armand Silvestre, Les Dessous à travers les âges, (“Underwear through the ages”) a work from 1914 which was one of thz first studies of women’s underwear of the beginning of the 20th century. This, and all these other works, were written by men.

4

Women’s abdominal muscles are notoriously weak and even intense exercise does not stop them slackening if they are not supported.

5

Honoré de Balzac, Petites misères de la vie conjugale, (“The small miseries of married life”), 1846.

All these terms are explained in the glossary.

6

Cécil de Saint Laurent, Histoire imprévue des dessous féminins, (“An improvised history of women’s underwear”), 1986.

7

1st century Greek doctor and botanist.

8

Pline the old (23–79), Roman, naturalist.

9

Latin poet (43–17).

10

Il vit tout de suite sa silhouette / Son corps rond, sa taille fine: (“He immediately saw her figure/her round body and small waist”).

11

“The corset controversy” chapter 9 of Valérie Steele’s, Fashion and Eroticism, New York, 1985.

12

In the U. S. A., Miss Annie Miller increased the number of organisations which wanted more reasonable dress. In 1904, Arabella Kennedy corseted monkies to show the harmful effect of corsets.

In 1898 the Russian Public Education Minister, Mr Bogoljewov, forbade young girls to come to school in corsets. In 1902 the Roumanian Public Education Minister, Haret, And in 1904, Bulgaria forbade corsets in state schools in the Chimanov leaflet.

13

The origins of the bra are much discussed, see glossary and Corsets et soutiens-gorge, (“Corsets and bras”) by Béatrice Fontanel, Paris, 1992.

14

The quest for a slim body is one of modern woman’s main preoccupations.

15

Rabelais, Gargantua (book I chapter VI.)

16

Molière, Les Précieuses ridicules, (“Precious Ridicule”) a one-act play, scene 5.

17

In 1823, the firm Rogers London made the first metal hooks and eyes in London, but the modern version of this innovation was produced in Paris by Daudé and was put into common use in 1828.

18

Emile Zola, L’Assommoir, chapter I, 1877.

19

Today pyjamas are far from being elegant at home wear.

20

In 1712, the French Oriental Indiana Company lost its privileges and they were teken over in 1719 by the India Company founded by Law.

21

Madapolam is a rough, heavy cotton cloth.

22

Viyella does not shrink. The company overcame a serious crisis in 1911 when laundries became commonplace, proving that the slogan was vulnerable.

СКАЧАТЬ
<p>24</p>

Jump, leap, run, stretch, reach for Spring with underwear that is so short and easy that you can put it on and forget about it… straight away… it is made for you, moves like you and is like you.