Learn to Turn, 3rd Edition Revised & Expanded. Bradley Richardson

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СКАЧАТЬ Materials such as wool, denim, leather, canvas, or 100% cotton are all safe choices of clothing. A thicker canvas or leather apron or welding jacket will offer some additional protection.

      When working around power tools or fire, avoid baggy clothing such as loose long sleeves, hoodie strings, etc. These are all subject to being grabbed by a machine or caught by an open flame.

      When you’re working around fire or hot material, avoid rubber-topped boots or standard gym shoes. The best option is an all-leather boot that sits above the ankle.

      Gloves are another great item to have in the shop. When working with epoxies and other chemicals, you will benefit from wearing disposable rubber or latex gloves. When running grinders or other machines, it can sometimes be safer to avoid gloves altogether because they carry the risk of being grabbed by belts or abrasives. When wearing gloves around machinery, it’s best to choose a tight-fitting glove. When working around fire or hot metals, avoid gloves made of synthetic materials. Leather is a good choice.

      Shop Safety Equipment

      In addition to suiting up in PPE, you must also consider having some shop safety equipment on hand as well. I was once told to always hope for the best but prepare for the worse. I cannot stress safety enough. This may not be the most dangerous trade in the world, but caution should never be taken lightly. To make things easy, I’ve broken these items down into a list that I’d recommend any beginner have in their shop.

      Shop Safety Equipment

       Fire Extinguishers: Class A and Class B

       Dust Collection System

       Eye Wash Solution or Eye Wash Sink

       Proper Lighting—Bright LEDs are best

       First Aid Kit

      FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

      I grew up with a firefighter dad, and because of that, fire safety has been ingrained into me. I keep three fire extinguishers in my shop (see below). Not to mention, I also have two large buckets full of water at all times that I use for cooling steel. Anyone using a forge or working around power tools and other heat sources should have a fire extinguisher on hand.

      When selecting a fire extinguisher it’s important to understand the different types. The most common types are classified as Class A, B, or C.

      Keep Class A and Class B fire extinguishers nearby.

      Class A fire extinguishers are effective against fires involving wood, paper, trash, textiles, or plastics. Class B fire extinguishers are effective against liquid fires involving gasoline, kerosene, oils, or even paints. Class C fire extinguishers are effective against electrical fires involving live electrical equipment. So just try to remember: Class A is for trash, Class B is for liquid, and Class C is for electrical.

      I recommend keeping a Class A or a general-purpose extinguisher on hand in case of emergency. And if you’re quenching a hot blade into oil (a step that I cover later on), keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby too. Never dump a bucket of water on an oil fire. Oil has a lower density than water, meaning it will always float on top. Adding water to an oil fire will only help the fire travel. A bucket of sand or fine dirt would do a better job than water.

      DUST COLLECTION

      This is my dust collection system, featuring a disposable collection bag.

      Dust collection devices are used near or connected to any tool that kicks up a lot of dust. I turn on my dust collector when I’m shaping handle material and it does a great job at keeping the dust level down. This helps to keep your lungs safe and saves you some cleanup time at the end of the day. Avoid using your dust collection device for both grinding metal and sanding wood. The sparks can mix with the wood dust inside of the dust chamber and potentially cause the dust to catch fire.

      EYE WASH

      Eye wash bottles, or better yet an eye wash sink, can really come in handy. I’m pretty adamant about wearing eye protection, but I still seem to get the occasional particle in my eye. A proper eye wash solution will be the best choice for flushing your eyes if needed.

      Eye washing stations provide on-the-spot decontamination. When particles enter your eye, it’s best to take care of the problem immediately.

      PROPER LIGHTING

      Something else that is often overlooked is proper lighting. If you can’t see what you’re doing, you greatly increase your chances of injury in the shop. This will also help your eyes from straining in a dark room. I recommend installing a few bright LED lights.

      Tools for the Beginning Knifemaker

      Make sure you’ve read the safety material first. If you go blind or burn your shop down, you won’t get much more use out of any of these tools.

      I’ve narrowed things down to create a very budget-friendly and modest group of ten tools that will get anybody started making knives. Many people may already find most of these tools in their home, and if not this entire list of tools can be bought new for around $150. You can always make upgrades as you move along, but these ten tools will prove their worth in any knifemaker’s shop.

      1. FILE

      From top: Single-cut file, half-round file.

      The first tool on the list is a file. More specifically, a single-cut file, also known as a bastard-cut mill file. This tool can be used for fine-tuning a blade profile as well as to form bevels. A sharp file will make fast work of soft (annealed) steel, and the use of a file card or a wire brush will help to prevent the file from clogging up during use. A file may be slower at cutting steel than a belt grinder, but it has a much lower price tag—a quality file can be bought new for around $6.

      2. RASP

      A rasp is СКАЧАТЬ