Gardening Basics For Dummies. Steven A. Frowine

Чтение книги онлайн.

СКАЧАТЬ or plant tissue — start to experience damage from heat. That’s why that point became the baseline for laying out the heat zones.

      U.S. gardeners in areas where the main source of plant stress isn’t winter cold but summer heat prefer this system. Nurseries in hot areas are starting to refer to these zones more and more. If the heat-zone information isn’t supplied for a plant you’re interested in, look in newer regional reference books and plant catalogs and websites.

      Savoring the Sunset zones

      In the Western United States — a region loosely defined as the states of Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, California, Nevada, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Oregon, and Washington — neither the USDA Zone Map nor the AHS Zone Map gives complete enough information. Complex and varied terrain and dramatic weather variations conspire to make this particular region unique.

      The Sunset Publishing Company, based in the San Francisco area, devised its own Garden Climate Zone Map, which you can find online at www.sunset.com. Just search the site for Sunset Climate Zones. You may also see it in many publications, from books to subscriber-driven magazines to newsstand issues. Gardeners, landscapers, and nurseries in the West often refer to these Sunset zones.

Sunset’s zone map contains 45 zones. Yep, 45. These zones actually cover the entire United States, Southern Canada, and Northern Mexico, and they’re all very individualized and specific. For example, Sunset Zone 3 is defined as West’s Mildest High-elevation and Interior Regions and covers much of the area east of the Cascades in the Northwest, where residents see snow cover in winters but also blazing summers. Zone 16 is Northern and Central California Coast Range Thermal Belts, from Santa Barbara County to Marin County; this area gets drying summer winds, fog, and a climate made mild by proximity to the ocean.

      These Sunset zones can particularly empower a new or frustrated Western U.S. gardener, especially if the source of plants also uses the same zones. So ask at the local nursery or garden center — realizing, of course, that nobody stays in business for long by selling plants that don’t thrive. Or go out and buy Sunset publications tailored to your particular zone and do some reading and research; then go shopping near or far when you know just what you want.

      Reading plant hardiness zone maps

      Take a look at the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, either in the color section of this book or online by searching for it. It’s available on many different garden sites. Notice that Zone 1, located at the top or northernmost part of the map, is coldest; Zone 11 is at the bottom, or southernmost part, and is warmest. In terms of hardiness zones established in the USA, Zones 1 and 11 represent the extremes. The bulk of the United States, though, fits into Zones 5, 6, 7, and 8. Originally, the zones were conceived to be 10°F apart.

      As you study the map or chart, say you find that you live in USDA Zone 7. So you determine that this means

       You should be able to grow any tree, shrub, or perennial labeled “hardy to USDA Zone 7.”

       You probably can’t grow plants that are less cold-hardy, such as Zone 8 or 9 ones — your colder winters may harm or kill them.

       You can grow plants labeled for farther north, even more cold-tolerant ones said to be “hardy to Zone 6 or 5.”

      However, every rule has an exception. Most gardeners can stray one, maybe two USDA zones from their own when making plant choices and the gamble will pay off. See “Zoning Out: Breaking the Zone and Growing Season Rules,” later in the chapter.

You often see a plant’s projected USDA Hardiness Zones expressed as a range. For instance, most clematis hybrids are said to be “hardy in Zones 3 to 8.” This statement means anyone gardening in Zones 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 ought to be able to grow one; the plant should survive your winters.

      Basic zones are based on the average annual minimum temperature — in other words, as cold as winter gets. Thus, in the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, Zone 6’s lowest winter temperature (on average) is –10°F (–12°C).

      Why base zone maps on cold temperatures? After all, other things doom plants, such as high heat, lack of water, too much water, too much or too little sun, and the wrong soil. But over the centuries of gardening, people found that cold is a better predictor of what will survive than any of those other (admittedly important) factors.

      A HOT ISSUE: CLIMATE CHANGE AND ZONE CHANGES

      The USDA revised its map in 2012. If climate change continues to accelerate as many people fear and as more and more scientists believe, the averages will rise. But for now, expect the numbers of the zones to remain the same, even if the details of each zone changes.

      The most important revisions made to the existing zone maps so far have been to list finer details. For example, in the USDA map, the more central zones have been split into halves, so you can also see Zone 5a and Zone 5b and so on, with the a being somewhat colder and the b being somewhat warmer. Canada’s map includes even more split zones.

      Sometimes gardeners blame heat or cold for the death of their plants, but other reasons may be the causes, such as following:

       Poor drainage: Poor soil drainage is big killer of plants especially during a wet winter.

       Dry conditions: A very dry winter can also cause a lot of damage and even plant death for evergreen plants that continue to use and lose water during the winter. These plants should be watered when the ground isn’t frozen, if needed. Sometimes it’s winter drought, rather than winter cold, that kills a garden plant.

       Winds: Drying winds can be very damaging. Some gardeners provide windbreaks to relieve this problem.

       Varmints: Don’t forget varmints, especially voles and mice that can do invisible underground root, stem, and bulb damage that occurs most in the winter when less of their natural food is around.

Climatological data comes from the horticulture industry, university researchers, botanic gardens, and so forth. Sometimes when a new plant enters commerce, the zone rating is conservative and after a while — with more people growing the plant in different areas and with more research — they find the plant to be more or less cold-tolerant than they originally thought.

Fathoming Frost Zones and Growing Seasons

      Whether a plant can survive the winter isn’t your only concern. You know annuals are going to live for only one season, but you also want to know how long that season will be. After all, you may not be pleased if your dahlias die before flowering or your tomato plants freeze before producing much fruit. Unfortunately, hardiness zones don’t tell you much about the length of the growing season. Enter the frost zone map.

      Zones are determined not only by temperatures but also by the climate, which combines temperature readings, rainfall, humidity, wind, air pressure, and other factors. Climates in frost zone maps are generally determined by growing season, the time during which — hold onto your hats — plants add new growth. The last spring frost and the first fall frost bookend the growing season, marking a nice period of frost-free days. Basically, this time period is your window of opportunity to plant and nurture and enjoy your home landscape, whether you’re growing flowers or edibles. Make the most of it!

СКАЧАТЬ