The Joyful Home Cook. Rosie Birkett
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Название: The Joyful Home Cook
Автор: Rosie Birkett
Издательство: HarperCollins
Жанр: Кулинария
isbn: 9780008314286
isbn:
TIP: Broad beans can be fiddly to peel so I usually blanch and peel them as soon as I get them, then keep them in a bowl in the fridge dressed with a teaspoon of olive oil ready to use whenever I fancy. They will keep for a few days like this.
Mackerel with buttered greens
and pickled radish
Serves 1
One of my favourite food festivals takes place in May each year on the beach in St Ives, Cornwall. The setting could not be more inspiring – you can smell the sea as you cook. This dish came together one year when I heard about a mackerel honesty box where you could buy the freshest local mackerel for pennies. A kindly local gent was known for having a mackerel ‘shed’ which was always stocked with ready filleted, sparklingly fresh catch just outside his house. I couldn’t resist walking the streets until I found the box. I paired the mackerel fillets with freshly foraged three-cornered leek, which grows like a weed in Cornwall, and is beautiful wilted in butter and served with pan-fried mackerel. If you can’t find wild leeks, use the greens of spring onions or baby leeks, thinly sliced lengthways, with a handful of spinach.
handful of samphire
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
sprig of thyme
1 × medium fillet of mackerel, pin-boned
10g unsalted butter
handful of baby spinach
60g three-cornered leek (or spring onions)
½ lemon, for squeezing
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the pickled radish
1 tbsp cider vinegar
2 tsp caster sugar
pinch of salt
2 radishes, thinly sliced, preferably with a mandoline
1 First, quick-pickle your radishes. Whisk the vinegar, sugar and salt in a bowl until the sugar has dissolved. Toss the radish slices through the vinegar and leave them to pickle while you cook the fish.
2 Blanch the samphire in a saucepan of boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain.
3 Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based, non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the thyme and allow it to infuse in the oil for a few seconds, then add the mackerel fillet, skin side down. Season the flesh with salt and pepper and cook, without moving the fillet, for 3–4 minutes, until the skin is crispy and the flesh is starting to cook through and become opaque. Carefully flip the fillet over and continue cooking on the flesh side for a matter of seconds, then transfer to a plate to rest.
4 Add the butter to the pan, followed by the samphire, spinach and three-cornered leek. Season with salt and pepper and wilt the greens in the butter for 2–3 minutes, tossing to thoroughly combine. Pour away any excess liquid, squeeze over a little lemon juice and serve the mackerel on the wilted greens with the pickled radish on the side.
Crab, Jersey Royal and asparagus salad
Serves 2–4
This recipe unites my two favourite spring ingredients – Jersey Royal potatoes and asparagus – with creamy crab, fresh green apple and soft herbs for a celebratory salad. The dish has everything: an irresistible earthy minerality from the potatoes (which are fertilised with seaweed), buttery green goodness from the asparagus, and luxury from the crab and mayo which dresses the salad as you eat it. It’s worth making your own mayonnaise (you can make it in advance, it will keep in the fridge for a few days), but if you’re pressed for time, shop-bought works, too – just stir a good fresh egg yolk through it to enrich it. This is a lunch worth carving out a couple of hours for with a friend.
sprig of mint
300g Jersey Royal potatoes or new potatoes, scrubbed
300g crab meat, split into white and brown
juice of 1 lemon
pinch of cayenne pepper, plus extra for sprinkling
1 green apple, cored and finely chopped (skin on)
3 spring onions, trimmed and thinly sliced
200g asparagus spears, trimmed and each cut diagonally into 3 pieces
handful samphire or sea purslane (optional)
1 baby gem lettuce, outer leaves separated, washed and dried, heart split in half
10g chervil leaves
10g tarragon leaves
10g flat-leaf parsley leaves
sea salt
For the mayonnaise
2 egg yolks
½ tsp sea salt
juice of ½ lemon
100ml extra-virgin rapeseed oil
200ml vegetable oil
pinch of ground white pepper
1 First, cook the potatoes. Bring a large saucepan of well salted water to the boil, add the mint and the Jersey Royals and simmer for 15 minutes, until tender – do not be afraid of overcooking them, as they are far better soft than chalky. Turn the heat off and leave them to cool down in their cooking water (this retains their earthy flavour beautifully).
2 While the potatoes cook, make the mayonnaise. Put the egg yolks, salt and lemon juice in a food processor and blitz until smooth. With the blades still turning, very, very slowly drip in the 100ml rapeseed oil, a drop at a time, until the oil starts to emulsify and the mixture looks smooth and creamy. Once the rapeseed oil is incorporated, very slowly start to drip in the vegetable oil, blitzing the whole time, until it starts to thicken. Once you’ve added about half the oil and it’s looking thick and creamy, increase the pouring of the oil to a steady stream – making the mayonnaise will take 10–15 minutes. If it becomes too thick and stiff to work at any point, just add a few drops of water or a squeeze of lemon and blitz again. If it splits, see tip (see here).
3 Once the mayonnaise is plump and emulsified, add 1 tablespoon of water. This will lighten the mayo and make it creamier. Add the pepper and blitz until combined. Scrape it out into a bowl, taste for seasoning and add a little more salt or lemon juice until it really sings.
4 Mix half of the mayo with the brown crab meat, a squeeze more lemon juice and the cayenne pepper. Fold in the apple and spring onion. Taste for seasoning.
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