Название: Greenfeast
Автор: Nigel Slater
Издательство: HarperCollins
Жанр: Кулинария
isbn: 9780008336622
isbn:
I don’t think we should spend too much time agonising over the right receptacle for the right food any more than we should play too seriously the wine-matching game. That said, I get pleasure from rummaging through my collection of everyday, utilitarian pieces simply to make my food look comfortable. (Anyone who has ever put tomato soup into a bright blue dish will know what uncomfortable food looks like.) In general, salads need a bit more space so I tend to favour a wide dish. Big soups like a generous home in which to sit – it will keep the contents hotter for longer and shallow ones are good for beautiful ingredients you want to admire. A deep one will also give you the joy of finding a hidden dumpling lurking deliciously at the bottom.
I have a certain reverence for food served in a bowl that I don’t when it is served on a plate. I am not sure why this should be, I only know that it is. I love the way the dressing, sauce or juices sit in the base, to be spooned up as a final treat, which is why so many of the dishes throughout these books are presented the way they are. It is my preferred way to eat.
A can of chickpeas from the shelf. Green peas from the freezer. A store- cupboard supper for a spring evening.
Serves 4
chickpeas 2 × 400g cans
frozen or fresh peas 400g (podded weight)
sprouted mung beans 100g
sprouted seeds such as radish 80g
olive oil 4 tablespoons
ground cumin 2 teaspoons
ground coriander 2 teaspoons
For the dressing:
tahini 1 tablespoon
juice of a lemon
olive oil 4 tablespoons
Bring a pan of water to the boil. Drain and rinse the chickpeas. Cook the peas in boiling water till tender. Drain and refresh in a bowl of iced water. Rinse the mung beans and sprouted seeds in cold water and shake them dry.
Make the dressing: beat together the tahini, lemon juice and olive oil.
Warm the olive oil in a frying pan over a moderate heat, add the chickpeas and ground spices and let them sizzle for a couple of minutes till hot and fragrant. Move the chickpeas around the pan as they brown.
Drain the peas again and put them in a serving bowl with the mung beans and radish sprouts. Fold in the dressing and lastly the chickpeas.
• One of those everlastingly useful ‘suppers in minutes’. Use frozen peas or a packet of fresh, podded peas from the supermarket. If you are podding fresh peas for this you will need a generous kilo.
• Use whichever sprouted peas you have around, including the mixtures of lentils and mung beans from health food shops. The point is to introduce as many differing textures as you can.
Sweet-salty cheese and fruit. The comfort of warm grain.
Serves 2–3
freekeh 125g
thyme a few sprigs
bay leaves 2
feta 250g
za’atar 1 teaspoon
a large peach
olive oil 3 tablespoons
a medium onion
mint 10g
parsley 20g
a lemon
Set the oven at 200°C/Gas 6. Put the freekeh, thyme and bay on to boil with enough water to cover by a good third. Salt it lightly and simmer for fifteen minutes.
Place a large piece of kitchen foil on a baking sheet, lay the piece of feta in the middle and sprinkle with the za’atar. Halve the peach, discard the stone, then cut each half into four. Tuck the peach around the feta, then pour over two tablespoons of the olive oil. Pull the sides of the foil up around its cargo and scrunch loosely to seal. Bake for twenty minutes.
Peel and finely slice the onion, then fry till crisp in the reserved oil. Set aside on kitchen paper.
Chop the mint and parsley together. Remove the feta from the oven and open the parcel. Pour the baking juices out into a bowl and mix with the juice of the lemon. Drain the freekeh, discarding the herbs, then dress with the lemon and baking juices. Fold in the mint and parsley, then break up the feta into large pieces and add. Lay the peaches amongst the freekeh, top with the crisp onions and serve.
• A substantial salad of warm, chewy grain, salty cheese and sweet, juicy peaches. The parsley and mint are important, but you could use basil too, or even coriander if you prefer.
Vibrant, verdant.
Serves 2–4
For the curry paste:
white peppercorns 1 teaspoon
coriander seeds 1 teaspoon
ground turmeric 1 teaspoon
lemon grass 2 stalks
garlic 2 cloves
ginger a 3cm lump, peeled
hot green chillies 3 small
groundnut oil 3 tablespoons
fresh coriander a handful, with roots
groundnut СКАЧАТЬ