Greenfeast. Nigel Slater
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Название: Greenfeast

Автор: Nigel Slater

Издательство: HarperCollins

Жанр: Кулинария

Серия:

isbn: 9780008336622

isbn:

СКАЧАТЬ volume, but we still have a crisp Vietnamese-inspired salad, a cooling melon gazpacho, a paneer korma and a bowl of green peas and sprouted seeds. There are rice bowls and soup bowls, freekeh salad, a verdant curry and a deep dish of creamy noodles. There are others of course, recipes in the On the Hob chapter in particular. There is not much that isn’t more appealing to me when eaten from the depths of a beautiful bowl.

      I don’t think we should spend too much time agonising over the right receptacle for the right food any more than we should play too seriously the wine-matching game. That said, I get pleasure from rummaging through my collection of everyday, utilitarian pieces simply to make my food look comfortable. (Anyone who has ever put tomato soup into a bright blue dish will know what uncomfortable food looks like.) In general, salads need a bit more space so I tend to favour a wide dish. Big soups like a generous home in which to sit – it will keep the contents hotter for longer and shallow ones are good for beautiful ingredients you want to admire. A deep one will also give you the joy of finding a hidden dumpling lurking deliciously at the bottom.

      I have a certain reverence for food served in a bowl that I don’t when it is served on a plate. I am not sure why this should be, I only know that it is. I love the way the dressing, sauce or juices sit in the base, to be spooned up as a final treat, which is why so many of the dishes throughout these books are presented the way they are. It is my preferred way to eat.

      A can of chickpeas from the shelf. Green peas from the freezer. A store- cupboard supper for a spring evening.

       Serves 4

      chickpeas 2 × 400g cans

      frozen or fresh peas 400g (podded weight)

      sprouted mung beans 100g

      sprouted seeds such as radish 80g

      olive oil 4 tablespoons

      ground cumin 2 teaspoons

      ground coriander 2 teaspoons

       For the dressing:

      tahini 1 tablespoon

      juice of a lemon

      olive oil 4 tablespoons

      Bring a pan of water to the boil. Drain and rinse the chickpeas. Cook the peas in boiling water till tender. Drain and refresh in a bowl of iced water. Rinse the mung beans and sprouted seeds in cold water and shake them dry.

      Make the dressing: beat together the tahini, lemon juice and olive oil.

      Warm the olive oil in a frying pan over a moderate heat, add the chickpeas and ground spices and let them sizzle for a couple of minutes till hot and fragrant. Move the chickpeas around the pan as they brown.

      Drain the peas again and put them in a serving bowl with the mung beans and radish sprouts. Fold in the dressing and lastly the chickpeas.

      • One of those everlastingly useful ‘suppers in minutes’. Use frozen peas or a packet of fresh, podded peas from the supermarket. If you are podding fresh peas for this you will need a generous kilo.

      • Use whichever sprouted peas you have around, including the mixtures of lentils and mung beans from health food shops. The point is to introduce as many differing textures as you can.

      Sweet-salty cheese and fruit. The comfort of warm grain.

       Serves 2–3

      freekeh 125g

      thyme a few sprigs

      bay leaves 2

      feta 250g

      za’atar 1 teaspoon

      a large peach

      olive oil 3 tablespoons

      a medium onion

      mint 10g

      parsley 20g

      a lemon

      Set the oven at 200°C/Gas 6. Put the freekeh, thyme and bay on to boil with enough water to cover by a good third. Salt it lightly and simmer for fifteen minutes.

      Place a large piece of kitchen foil on a baking sheet, lay the piece of feta in the middle and sprinkle with the za’atar. Halve the peach, discard the stone, then cut each half into four. Tuck the peach around the feta, then pour over two tablespoons of the olive oil. Pull the sides of the foil up around its cargo and scrunch loosely to seal. Bake for twenty minutes.

      Peel and finely slice the onion, then fry till crisp in the reserved oil. Set aside on kitchen paper.

      Chop the mint and parsley together. Remove the feta from the oven and open the parcel. Pour the baking juices out into a bowl and mix with the juice of the lemon. Drain the freekeh, discarding the herbs, then dress with the lemon and baking juices. Fold in the mint and parsley, then break up the feta into large pieces and add. Lay the peaches amongst the freekeh, top with the crisp onions and serve.

      • A substantial salad of warm, chewy grain, salty cheese and sweet, juicy peaches. The parsley and mint are important, but you could use basil too, or even coriander if you prefer.

      Vibrant, verdant.

       Serves 2–4

       For the curry paste:

      white peppercorns 1 teaspoon

      coriander seeds 1 teaspoon

      ground turmeric 1 teaspoon

      lemon grass 2 stalks

      garlic 2 cloves

      ginger a 3cm lump, peeled

      hot green chillies 3 small

      groundnut oil 3 tablespoons

      fresh coriander a handful, with roots

      groundnut СКАЧАТЬ