Start & Run a Landscaping Business. Joel LaRusic

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СКАЧАТЬ In the second, the blade stops, but the engine keeps running. The latter option is better as it will save you time, energy, and your pull start cord too, since you will be able to safely empty bags, clean the chute, and drive over sidewalks without shutting the motor off each time.

      Self-propelled drive: As you may be cutting miles of lawn each day, having a self-propelled drive is well worth the extra cost. It is also useful to have a variable speed setting, which allows you to adjust the mower’s speed to your walking pace for different lawn conditions.

      Two-cycle or four-cycle: Many mowers come with a choice of two-cycle or four-cycle engines. The two-cycle requires that you put a mixture of gas and oil in the tank. Since the oil is burned with the gas, and because a two-cycle engine burns twice as much gas as a four-cycle, this is not the most environmentally sound choice. I recommend the four-cycle. It involves a little more maintenance (changing the oil), but boasts more power. I’d make an exception to this advice if you will be cutting steep slopes. Four-cycle engines have difficulty circulating oil on steep slopes.

      Mowing height adjustment: There should be at least five settings for mowing height, ranging from about one to three inches.

      Bagging: Avoid mowers with a side bag; rear bagging is the only way to go. A better mower will have some sort of spring-loaded hatch in the back so that if you choose not to bag (e.g., if you are mulching), you can simply remove the bag and the hatch will cover the hole where the grass would normally come out. Other models may have a detachable cover that must be manually removed and replaced each time you switch from bagging to mulching. In any case, make sure you have the option to not use the bag.

      Best names: Toro, Honda, John Deere, Ariens.

      Author’s recommendation: Toro Proline 21-inch Model 22172 (6.0 hp) or 22177 (6.5 hp). Both are four-cycle, have variable speed self-propelled drive, and feature BBC that does not stop the engine.

      3.2 Commercial walk-behind mowers and riders

      If you work on larger commercial properties, you will want to consider a larger mower. Even if you restrict your business to residential properties, once you build up a lot of customers or have a number of clients with large lawns, a commercial mower might be a good choice.

      There are so many brands and varieties of commercial walk-behind mowers and riders that it is difficult to recommend anything specific; your choice will depend largely on what you will be using your mower for. The best bet is to visit your local dealer and take a look at what is available. As well, check out the websites of the name brands listed below for ideas on what they offer. Here are a few general tips on what to look for in these types of mowers.

      Cutting width: There is a lot of variation within this class of mower. You can get deck sizes from 32 inches up to 60 inches. The best rule of thumb: Get as big a mower as will fit in your properties.

      Horsepower: Expect at least a 15 horsepower engine on your midsized mower. Higher horsepower options are available.

      Fixed or floating deck: Floating decks are suspended from the frame of the mower and allow more independent deck movement. Fixed decks are firmly attached to the mower. Floating decks offer easier mowing height adjustment than fixed decks. They also cost more, so if you cut mostly level lawns and don’t need to adjust the height of the mower from jobsite to jobsite, you may want to choose the fixed-deck style. However, fixed-deck mowers are not as forgiving on bumpy lawns and can scalp the grass. This becomes an issue with the larger-width models, so if you are getting something wider than 36 inches, you should choose a floating deck.

      Sulkey/velke: These are cool little attachments for walk-behind mowers, designed like a trailer for the person doing the mowing. You sit on a sulkey and you stand on a velke. Jump on the jointed foot plate or mini-seat with wheels and let the mower pull you around as you cut.

      Striping kit: Customers love that striped look on their lawn. A striping kit is a roller that flattens the grass a little after it’s been cut to give it a more pronounced nap.

      Other attachments: There are a number of attachments available for commercial walk-behind and riding mowers, including leaf-bagging vacuum systems, large-capacity bags, sun shades, deluxe seats for maximum comfort, fertilizer spreaders, and more.

      Best names: Exmark (a division of Toro), Bunton, Bobcat, Bad Boy, Scag, Husqvarna, Wright, Hustler.

      Author’s recommendation: Exmark is the biggest name in this market, and many people rave about its products. Check out the newcomer Bad Boy Mowers.

      3.3 Reel mowers

      The reel mower is a specialty item. They are expensive, require more knowledge and skill to use, and are finely calibrated, high-maintenance pieces of equipment. For these reasons it is not a good idea to start out with a reel mower if you have never used one before.

      Reel mowers are often used on golf course putting greens. The precision of the cut is exquisite, and you may find that as your business grows and you take on higher-end clients, they may request their lawn be cut with this style of mower. If you do purchase one, make sure the dealer has the expertise in-house to sharpen and calibrate the mower properly.

      Cutting width: From 20 to 27 inches cutting width on standard walk-behinds.

      Number of blades: There are usually either five or seven blades on the cutting reel. The more blades, the better the cut.

      Best names: California Trimmer, Tru-Cut.

      Author’s recommendation: Tru-Cut C25H7 (25 inch) or C27H7 (27 inch).

       How to Sharpen Your Lawn Mower Blade:

      • A dull mower blade can slow you down significantly and, in serious cases, can also distract from an otherwise beautifully kept lawn. You can tell if the blade needs sharpening by looking closely at the grass. If the ends are rough and turn brown after a day or two, you are using a dull blade. As a professional mower, you should sharpen your blades daily. You will need a bench grinder, a crescent wrench, and a socket wrench or similar tool to remove bolts.

      • Safety first! Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug.

      • Remove the blade. You may need a squirt or two of WD-40 or other oil to loosen it up. Use a blade holder, a block of wood, or, if nothing else, your foot to stop the blade from moving as you remove the bolt(s) that hold the blade on.

      • Note the angle of the blade. You’ll want to try and maintain that angle. If the angle is too sharp, you’ll get a great cut for the first cut or two, but it will quickly dull. If the angle is not sharp enough, your cut will suffer, although the blade will wear more slowly.

      • Check the blade for straightness. A bent blade cannot be repaired, and using it could be dangerous. If you think the blade is bent, throw it out.

      • Start up your grinder and move the blade back and forth lightly on the grinding wheel. The first inch on either side of the blade does most of the work, so work particularly on those areas. Try to maintain the original angle. Don’t press the blade too heavily onto the wheel. Don’t stay in the same spot on the blade for too long. If the blade gets too hot, СКАЧАТЬ