TransNamib: Dimensions of a Desert. Gabi Christa
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Название: TransNamib: Dimensions of a Desert

Автор: Gabi Christa

Издательство: Автор

Жанр: Книги о Путешествиях

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isbn: 9783939792093

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СКАЧАТЬ After his death, his wife returned to America, probably without the horses. One of the more swashbuckling theories is the following: that a ship carrying a cargo of breeding horses was wrecked in the mouth of the Orange River and the horses swam ashore. Hence, these proud animals could actually be flotsam. An artificial water hole was installed for the horses to prevent certain death by thirst in the desert. Now the well is deserted and no horses are to be seen. What I expect to be a horse, spotted on the horizon through the binoculars, turns out to be a lonesome Ostrich.

      B4, Sperrgebiet 1 to the left, Sperrgebiet 2 and Namib-Naukluft-Park to the right

      Measuring 49.768 square kilometres, the park is one of the largest in Africa. It forms the heart of the Namib Desert. The Naukluft Mountains, rising 1.965 metres, the Bushman Hill, 1.609 metres, and the Chowaga Mountain, 2.063 metres, are the highest elevations in the Namib-Naukluft-Park. Within the park, we find great potential for our tour exploring the different dimensions of the Namib Desert and we plan to stay here for longer.

      The southern park border runs from Aus to Lüderitz; to the north, the park extends up to Swakopmund. At Swakopmund, it joins the Skeleton Coast Park, which, in turn, reaches up to the Angolan border. There, the Parque Nacional do Iona and the Reserva Parcial de Namibe ensure the protection of the Namib Desert.

      Only creatures well adapted to the dry desert climate thrive in the Namib. These include the scorpions which I am not very fond of as well as snakes, beetles, reptiles, Mountain Zebras and springbok. But no other animal can compete with the proud Oryx antelope for my sympathy. As far as survival in the desert is concerned, the Oryx is perfectly equipped. Its body temperature adapts to the ambient temperature up to 45 degrees. It always keeps cool because the blood which circulates through its brain is first chilled in its nasal tract. In the west, the full length of the Namib Desert borders the Atlantic Ocean. That is why seals are part of the diet of jackals and hyenas. In the glittering light black spots are dancing across the sands: Ostriches, the only creatures we get to see in the park today.

      The declaration of the Sperrgebiet Diamond Areas in the Namib Desert

      At Grasplatz the sand is blown about, no trees, no shrubs, not to speak of grass, grow at this spot in the middle of the desert. Whence the name? No more than a peeling signboard and a ruin mark the place where August Stauch’s story began. At a time when, between Aus and Lüderitz, goods were transported by ox wagons, fodder for the oxen – grass - was kept here, hence the name.

      Grasplatz, the Starting Point of the Diamond Story

      Stauch was an athletic, handsome, modest and able man, and a caring father. On 15 April 1904 he married Ida Schwerin. Two kids were born, Hans and Marianne, followed by Helmuth and Käthe. It wasn’t an easy decision for the father of the family to go to Deutsch-Südwest. Financial troubles, however, forced him to do so. In May 1907, Stauch disembarked in the inhospitable harbour of Lüderitz bay. The site of his mission was located 24 kilometres outside of Lüderitz, along the 104-kilometre railway line between Lüderitz and Aus. Construction had started in 1905 and had been accomplished seven months later, the material for it having been shipped from Germany. Together with support staff, Stauch was in charge of keeping a certain section of the railway line free from sand. The necessity for this is obvious. Persistent strong winds make a dune of one metre in height wander by about 12 metres a day. Stauch took to studying both the starry sky as well as the desert. He was looking for a way to stop the wandering dunes which are in constant motion. Before, they invaded the railway tracks, now it is the tarred road to Lüderitz which they encroach upon, constantly, albeit nearly invisibly. Stauch found social comfort in Lüderitz. At that time, there was still some hustle and bustle, which was, however, already declining. The depression, like a leaden blanket, descended steadily upon the settlement. Bankruptcy closed down shops, unemployment and construction sites were abandoned unfinished and forced people to wonder about the future.

      In 1908, in a kind of coincidence, Zacharias Lewala, one of Stauch’s staff, found the first diamond. Together with Kreplin and Weidmann, Stauch went to work with the utmost discretion. But after the men had become owners of the mining rights around Kolmanskop, the key word diamond could no longer be kept secret. The diamond fever spread like an epidemic. Stauch was part of the diamond rush from the beginning and, for a certain period of time, acquired legendary riches, but unfortunately died a poor man on 6 May 1947 in Eisenach.

      The news promising wealth fanned out in the town with the speed of the wind. The good news from the desert even reached Berlin, which, at short notice, produced harsh consequences for the young entrepreneurs in diamond mining. After an assessment on site by the secretary of state of the Reich colonial department, Bernhard Dernburg, within a week the area had been declared Sperrgebiet prohibited area. The almighty in Berlin were afraid that the ordinary Joes might cash in on all the diamond riches themselves. Thus, the diamond diggers in the desert were struck dumb by the awful news. Henceforth nobody was allowed to enter, without permission, this strip of desert, 137 km long, parallel to the coast, stretching from the 26th latitude to the border of South Africa. The German Diamond Corporation (DDG) was founded and, immediately, everything had to be done according to strict rules. You couldn’t buy any more mining rights; instead, there arose quarrels about how to deal with the existing claims. Diamonds could no longer be exported overland and commerce became monopolised in order to ensure the profits for the German Reich. Success ensured that DDG became a significant rival to the powerful South African trust De Beers. The machines which were put to work In South-West were more up-to-date than those in Kimberley and so, between 1908 and 1914, more than 5 million carats of diamonds were mined.

      Kolmanskop

      An insignificant sand hill, not any different from others in the desert, was named Kolmanskop. Mr Kolman got stuck with his cart on this hillock and couldn’t move on. This, among many more interesting things, I learned from a lady who belongs to the third generation of Lüderitz residents. I can only recommend that you allow yourself to be guided by her through the buildings of Kolmanskop. Take a tour back in time into the world of the diamond rush on the sand hill.

      Nearly all the houses on the diamond hill were erected between 1908 - 1910. They grew like mushrooms, but were not at all simple or random. Refined taste was the flavour of the day and money didn’t matter; if you did not have money, you paid with diamonds. All of the building material was shipped from Germany. Houses in “Fat Cats Drive” were mostly two-storeyed and adorned with balconies and gazebos. Still today, inside the rooms, you can marvel at the beautifully coloured decorations on the walls. This is due to the lead-containing paints, toxic, but durable in return.

      The residents were well entertained at the theatre, the nightlife was exciting enough to attract even patrons from Lüderitz to Kolmanskop. The big hall with its stage and the skittle alley are very well preserved. Here and there, some refurbishment has been done with loving attention to detail. In the former shop, now a museum, many pictures and devotional objects have been collected and are displayed in glass cases. In the shop owner’s yellowed order book you can read that even a theatre company from Hamburg was shipped to the colony. There was neither a lack of caviar, nor cigars, beer or French Champagne; everything was available. Already in 1910, the electrical power station was operational, serving both Lüderitz and Kolmanskop. The deployment of electrical locomotives brought huge relief, replacing the mules that so far had pulled the wagons through the settlement. These vehicles served the residents of Kolmanskop as delivery vans, school buses and taxis. You ordered the taxi by telephone and soon you were shopping, at school or had gone to the coffee party around the corner. Better-off women at that time preferred fulsome long dresses not СКАЧАТЬ