Advanced English Riding. Sharon Biggs
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Название: Advanced English Riding

Автор: Sharon Biggs

Издательство: Ingram

Жанр: Биология

Серия: Horse Illustrated Guide

isbn: 9781937049430

isbn:

СКАЧАТЬ pieces of leather. The reins will be pulled across the horse’s crest instead of hanging in a loop alongside the neck. The bridges are also very useful tools in terms of safety. If your horse were to stumble, the bridge can keep you from falling because your arms won’t collapse on either side of the horse’s neck.

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      This is the correct hand position for the full bridge used in a gallop.

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      This is the correct hand position for the half bridge used in a gallop.

      The gallop is the gait at which event riders shine. In fact, most cross-country work is performed at the gallop. Preliminary eventing speed is set at 520 mpm, Intermediate speed at 550 mpm, and Advanced speed at 570 mpm. Knowing how to ride at a specific eventing speed is an important skill. To learn what each speed feels like, set up a meters-per-minute track. You will need a measuring wheel (available at tack stores, hardware stores, or home improvement centers); stakes with flags; and a long, even stretch of ground with decent footing. Measure out the distance on the gallops, and place a stake in the ground for whatever speed you want to learn: 375 meters out from the start of your gallop for the canter; 400 to 450 meters for the hand gallop; 520, 550, and 570 meters for the upper levels. Wear a watch and time yourself from the starting point. You should reach your chosen stake in one minute.

      The best way to gallop is to begin slowly and build up to it gradually. This is advisable because some horses get high on the speed, and a fast start can undo the hard work you’ve put into training an obedient horse that listens to your aids. When you’re eventing, leave the start box at a trot, then go into a canter, then a hand gallop, and then the gallop to ensure that your horse is still listening and rideable.

      When jumper riders gallop in a class against time, they treat the gallop much the same as the hand gallop, a little bit quicker but not so fast that they knock the fence down. To practice, gallop toward the fence, and then slow down or “balance up” a few strides in front of the fence to allow your horse to get her legs underneath her to jump.

      Galloping requires a lot from a horse, and she can injure herself badly if her body isn’t used to concussion at top speed. Think long and hard about whether galloping is right for you and your horse. The once-a-week rider should not gallop: galloping is for people who ride their horses five times a week. If you think galloping is for you, you must work up to it by conditioning your horse. Most event riders gallop once every five days, but your horse may not be up to this schedule. Warm up with ten to twenty minutes of trotting, then begin with three minutes at the hand gallop, two minutes at a walk, and another three minutes at the hand gallop. Then, after a few weeks or months (consult a trainer if you are unsure how to test your horse’s fitness level), progressively increase the gallop speed to 450 mpm for three minutes, followed by the two-minute walk and then the second gallop at 500 mpm for three minutes. This interval training builds your horse’s cardiovascular system and soft tissue.

      You should also outfit your horse in the appropriate bit for galloping, one that gives you adequate control. For some horses, this might be a simple snaffle; for others, it might be something stronger. A flash or figure-eight noseband is important because it ensures the horse will keep her mouth closed, which will also help you maintain control. If the horse’s mouth is open, no bit will work. Your horse should also be wearing brushing boots for protection. Polo wraps can come undone or slip, and a horse can trip or fall if she steps on a loose wrap.

      Refrain from galloping in wooded areas. It’s hard to gauge your speed and see what’s ahead or coming at you in the other direction. Before you gallop, walk the area to check for holes and debris and to make sure the ground is not too hard, deep, or slippery. Understand that your speed (when you’re practicing) will depend on what the land and conditions allow. You can turn only so sharply or go downhill safely at only certain speeds. As you go faster, the balance of the horse should always stay the same.

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      This horse is properly equipped for galloping, with a flash noseband on the bridle and brushing boots on the legs.

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      The Half Halt

      The half halt is probably one of the most misunderstood skills in riding. Many riders find it difficult because they focus too much on the physical mechanics of the aid. Concentrating on thinking it through makes the aid last too long, and the rider ends up mistiming the half halt or pulling against the horse. The half halt is actually momentary. It shouldn’t last longer than one footfall of the horse.

      The name of the skill is a great description of what it does: it halfway halts the horse. To analyze it a step further, the half halt works by slowing the front end momentarily. Because you are still asking the horse to move forward, the hind legs continue to do so; as a result, the horse’s frame briefly becomes more compact, and he begins to move with his topline arched. This posture helps the horse balance on his haunches rather than on his forehand or, worse, on your hands. And from this posture, he will be able to carry out the changes that you are about to ask for, such as a turn, a transition, or a change in tempo (speed). You’ll feel that the horse is easier to influence and more comfortable to ride. You’ll also feel a sense of being with the horse rather than somewhere behind him. The horse’s movement will be more fluid. The flow of energy between the two of you will also become more fluid. It will feel easier to sit to the trot and the canter. The horse will also feel stronger and taller and arched in his back.

      Besides slowing and balancing the horse, the half halt has other benefits. Horses tend to take over the tempo and the center of balance to make things easier for themselves. Typically, you’re riding around thinking all is well until you try to circle. Suddenly, you realize your horse is off in a world of his own. The half halt reminds him to be a team player and to listen to your communication. It’s often a little reminder that you’re the one who’s setting the agenda.

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      The use of the half halt will help keep your horse balanced in the canter, like this.

      Here is a breakdown of the important elements of the half halt:

      • Make sure that as you ride along your back is flowing with the movement of the horse. If you always sit stiffly against him, he won’t be able to feel the half halt coming through your seat.

      • Lengthen your legs slightly so that the lower leg asks the horse to step a little deeper with his hind legs.

      • Decrease the flow of your back and seat by gently firming the muscles along your spine for a split second. Your horse may feel this resistance and think, “Oh, she wants to stop,” and begin to shift his balance back in anticipation of the halt.

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      Half halts need to be customized to suit each horse. This horse is resisting the rider’s request to halt.

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      The rider makes the half halt more emphatic, and the horse responds.

      • If your elbow is hanging СКАЧАТЬ